Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Definitely a "measure twice and cut once" project because they're hard (expensive) to replace. 0000 steel wool 1st then I used a light compound and wax on the lenses. Painted the insides of the housing with gloss white. Used flat push nuts and rubber washers to attach the chrome strip, also painted the inside strip flat black. I found a fastener for that middle plastic post, the one you have to break off, that holds on the chrome strip. It has to be ground down though. I used a die to cut threads in the plastic post which did two things, took away the taper and gave it some "teeth" to grab the fastener's threads when I pushed it down onto the post. I dr…
Last reply by rossiz, -
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Hi guys question for s30's guru in you picture of my alternator in the car and new MSA alternator there is a yellow wire coming out of the MSA alternator with a sqare plastic connector that i have no clue what it is and what to do with it. all other things are the same on my car (1971 240z) alternator may have been modified by PO) MSA sent a connector that i do not need. Thank's in advance JeanP
Last reply by jeanp, -
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Hi Folks.... New question... When I got the 'Z' the fuse box suffered the usual melted plastic around the fuse holder problem from the high current draw of the lights and accessories through the fuses. I changed out the fuse box with a new MSA replacement about 10 or so yrs ago. I had to cut the White, and White/Red wires to remove the old fuse box, and I butt spliced the new one in... when I stripped the wires to do the splice I had a look at both of the wires, and did notice that they were pretty well oxidized... I cleaned off the ends as best as I could with some emery cloth, and spliced in the new box. I also did the one-wire GM internal regulator conversion, I insta…
Last reply by peng155, -
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Hey Guy's I'm thinking about installing a voltmeter into my 71 "Z" to monitor the health of the charging system in the car. The ampmeter only can tell me so much, but the ampmeter along with the voltmeter should give me a better picture of what the charging system is doing when the car in running... What I'm not sure of is where to tap the voltmeter into...... I'm thinking of connecting the voltmeter at the alternator output post.. my other option is to tap into the electrical system somewhere that is on when the ignition is on. Looking for opinions on what you guys think... thanks
Last reply by peng155, -
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Hey all, I have a 74 260Z with a tach issue. First off, its a V8 swapped car with a Tachmatch box which until very recently worked perfectly fine to display the correct RPM. Once in a (long) while the tach would start hunting around sporadically, but it would go back to normal after a restart or two. Well, the other night, it stopped working entirely. The Tachmatch box has a 'test' mode. With the ignition on (engine off) I have measured this mode to output a steady 1.4v to the signal wire. I then removed the tach from the dash and measured this same 1.4v at wire (A) red/black With the ignition on, I also measure 12-13v across wires ( green & black Does anyone k…
Last reply by thedarkie, -
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Okay! So to start, I can't read those stupid wiring diagrams worth a flip. I have come across a low grade HID conversion kit for my headlights. Each headlight works individually, but when I hook them up simultaneously, they flicker back and forth. I have decided to wire relays into the original circuit and route wire straight from the battery to each of the headlights. Problem is, I don't understand how the brights even work. . What I'm asking for is a walkthrough of the wiring from the battery, through whatever switches, and to the headlights. High beams and low beams. Stock setup. I can't seem to find anything descriptive on this matter. If you do know of a w…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Thought I'd share an interesting issue I encountered with my turn signals. They would work fine with running light/headlights off. Turn on running lights only or with headlights and they would stop flashing. Running lights in front were dim I changed the flasher to a solid state (no load) to try it out, and it did the weirdest thing. Signal to turn left and the rear light would signal left, but the front would signal right. Signaling right would do the opposite as well. Also the running lights in front would flash too and they are not wired to do so. I figured out that the ground for the running lights, shared with the turn signals, was floating and it looks like it w…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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quick question to the electrical gurus out there (i am not adequately talented in this dark art). yesterday on the way to work the interior fan wasn't working - and it was hot out... when i got to my parking garage i turned on the headlights and the fan turned on with them (the fan switch was left on high) and now it all seems to work, with or without the lights. does this make any sense or was it a very, very strange coincidence?
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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Higuys, On a 1978 280Z with OE alternator, I was wondering if there was a way to have things like driving lamps to get switched off when the engine is not running, and I remembered that the alternator has "a blue wire" that goes to the volt meter for the charge alert light, and I thought that if you can tap that wire to set up something for a relay system that powers things like the driving lamps or headlamps, then when you turn off the engine, the lamps will go off too, saving the battery. So is there a terminal on the alternator that goes hot when the engine is running? thxZ
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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This is more of a general car question, but it happened on my 1978 280Z with a Holley carb. I started the car just fine and had it idling so I could set the timing. It took me 5-10 minutes (or so, fast idle was still active on the electric choke) to get my timing gun and when I get back to the car, it dies right away. It was running just fine and then stopped as if someone turned the ignition to Off. After that, the car wouldn't start and any ignition-switched items do not work either (such as the wipers, turn signals). The constant power stuff like headlights work fine. The battery is at 12.62V and I had it load tested at a specialty battery shop just 2 months ago, which…
Last reply by aochider, -
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First off, I would like to thank everyone in the previouse thread i made that helped greatly with diagnosing and for the most part fixing my EFI issue. The thread can be found http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/52655-fuel-injector-replacements.html Now on to my new issues and questions. After i replaced my fuel injectors i tested plug 1 on the ecu connector and did not read battery voltage. All the circuits for the injectors checked out ok but pin 1 was just not getting any power. From looking at the color wire diagrams available i was able to figure out that i had my coil wires reversed. Switched them around and still i was not getting battery voltage.…
Last reply by Blue_streak, -
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Hello guys, I've got my stock 280z running- for a bit. I bought the car in this condition. 1977 OEM Stock everything 35k miles. Car runs extremely smooth when turning her on while cold. Car will run for a good 15-20 mins idling without driver intervention. Randomly the relay above the EFI clicks repeatedly - as this happens the RPMs drop from ~900 down to about ~500 and sometimes stalls out if the clicking does not stop. As soon as the clicking stops the RPMs shoot right back up to ~900. After it gets close to operating temperature there is more chance of hesitation or backfiring when trying to give it gas, other times when the relay clicks any attempt to give it gas sta…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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