Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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There is a relay sound (ie, clicking sound, if that makes sense) from my tachometer area whenever I turn on my turn signals. Since owning the car, there was always a rapid clicking but it would settle in half a second and the signal would work as normal. Now, I only get rapid clicking and the signals don't work. Any idea what I would have to replace? The problem is for left and right, and I haven't done anything to the car so I'm guessing something just went out over time. EDIT: I should also note that the behavior still happens regardless of the turn signal lever. I tested that. Everything else seems to lead to the tachometer, which is where I'm stuck.
Last reply by aochider, -
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How do i test the other 2 gauges besides from the mechanical clock of the car: Ampmeter / Fuel gauge and Temperature / oil level gauge? where do i connect the alligator clips? Just want to be sure i am buying stuff that Works on ebay and not being scammed by sellers who misrepresent these used parts.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have a couple of lights not working in my 1972 240z such as the following: -Right front turn signal light: it does flash and it does not show up on the dashboard when activating the turn signal switch in that direction. the right tail light does work and flashes. -Intermittent light is not working. - All the fuses are okay. -Emergency brake light is not lighting. It used to light a couple of weeks ago. I took the car to an electromechanic and he says he will need to take the dashboard down and take out the turn signal switch to clean it. I just want to be sure this is the problem before accomplishing all of these tasks or being charged for something that was not neede…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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hey forum so i'm starting to prep my franken-Z for sale (unless i get attached again hehe) but it's not starting consistently. new/charged battery, new terminals for +/- cables, and new starter. turning the switch will give me a click, prob relay, but will not engage the starter. lights and fuel delivery is fine. after jumping the starter, the car cranks on fine. after that the switch will then engage the starter properly. but eventually it won't and it's back to the same click although always starts when jumping the starter. this weekend i'll probably test the switch assembly. searching here, i see that the electrical part is the usual suspect so maybe i won't have to t…
Last reply by no.never, -
I recently bought one of those 1970-1973 labeled "JECCO" mechanical clock advertised as working condition from ebay. I tested it with some alligator clips attached to the blue and black terminals of the car´s battery and it did not worked. Due to this, i decided to open it and placed a couple of 3 in one motor oil as the ones used for sewing machines in all the bearings of the clock and when connected to the battery it still did not worked. Are these clocks so hard to get started? How do i test the other 2 gauges of the car: Ampmeter / Fuel gauge and Temperature / oil level gauge? where do i connect the alligator clips? Just want to be sure i am buying stuff that Works o…
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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So I just pulled an engine harness from a 280z in a junkyard to put into my 77. The junkyard website said the car was a 77 and that is what was painted on the side of the body by them. We just pulled my old harness and laid them side by side to examine them and see what connections may need to be swapped over etc. Here's where I am stumped. my car has this round plug for the voltage regulator... But the one we pulled from the car, supposedly the same year. Has no such connector nor and cut wires that look like they would have gone to this connector. Anyone know if this harness changed at some point or what year it would have been different from a 77?
Last reply by 280zzzzz, -
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What model of NGK spark plugs should i use if i haven an PerTronix Ignition Kit with new coil and electric fuel pump installed in my 1972 240z? Should i strive for NGK-R spark plugs?
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
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...if you short the fuel sending unit wires together the gauge should shoot over to fuel. I'm about to try it and didn't want to burn up my new unit that's not working. I'm pretty sure it's those nail head connections on the wires, I had a heck of a time getting those boots off and think I geeked them up. Is this true?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I am the proud new owner of a low miles, all original, no rust 1973 240z. I've been spending time under the hood getting familiar with everything and I found that the vacuum advance hose is not connected to anything. The vacuum advance works and holds vacuum nicely but I don't know where to stick the hose. I've looked in the FSM and spent my time searching old threads but I can't find a photo of where the advance tube is supposed to go. Anyone got one?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I had a bit of fun cleaning up an old radio. I still need to replace up the external wires and a light bulb. It would have been fine to leave as is but I undid one screw and the rest followed.
Last reply by That Ozzy Guy, -
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I'm curious about what some RELIABLE, easy-to-install ignition modules are. I currently have an MSD 6A in there, but the thing is massive, fairly expensive, and seems to be pretty weak against heat (already had one burn out on me). Any alternatives? Thanks!
Last reply by Jaymac, -
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Hi y'all, Sorry if this is a repeat, but I haven't been able to find an issue quite like this in the forums. I've got a '76 280z that I purchased with a 5 speed from a later car already installed. The reverse lights stopped working a few weeks ago, so I checked all the connections, replaced the switch, swapped bulbs, and I still get nothing. The strange thing is that when the car is running and I shift into reverse, or press the switch manually without it being installed, the red "charge" light in the voltmeter comes on. There is some voltage coming through at the sockets, but not a full 12 volts. All other lights and switches function perfectly, I've checked the FSM t…
Last reply by JeffMopar,
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