Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I just received a Color Wiring Diagram from Prospero's Garage (purchased on eBay). I have noticed these for a while and thought that it might be cheap or incomplete, so with my Z paint finished and re-assembly in progress I went ahead and bought one. I have to say that I am very impressed - so far. Have any of you guys (and gals) purchased one? He has a website: http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/ I am not promoting - just sharing some information on a good find . I will be sure and post any problems if I find any....
Last reply by Nigel, -
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I installed the alternator upgrade on my 72 240Z some time ago, but continue to have one problem. The 280Z uses a wider V belt (.47 inch outside width vs. 240 Z .41 inch outside width.) The 240Z belt 7335 rides very low in the alternator pulley and at startup slips and squeals. I tried installing the 240Z alternator pulley on the 280Z alternator, but then the pulley is offset from the fan and crank pulleys. I tried using a belt sized for the 280Z alternator and that rides very high in the fan and crank pulleys. Has anyone come up with a solution or do you just live with it?
Last reply by 72autoZ, -
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I installed a wiper motor bought on Ebay from a seller in Canada. The motor works, but when I turn it off, it comes to rest in the up position. Does anyone know how to remedy this?
Last reply by olzed, -
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the wiper motor and jets are not working on my 240z. Initially when i purchased my 240z the wipers arms moved slow not fast as the ones in my honda crv. The jets are not spraying wáter. Should i consider replacing the entire motor and wáter pump or could i take this to an electromechanic and have it fixed? I really want a steady and reliable windshield wiper system.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Can anyone confirm that the white/black wire is correctly soldered? It is attached to the side of the metal part while the other 3 are soldered through it and on to other wires that go in to the radio. There was evidence of tampering with the cap that goes over the wires so I just wanted to confirm if this looks correct. I haven't powered it up yet.
Last reply by That Ozzy Guy, -
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Alright awhile back I did the ZX alternator conversion on my car, my wiring is still a little goofy as I think I have a short somewhere in the dash, but that'll get fixed soon, and everything work for now. Mine is the standard ZX alternator, I beleive its a 60 amp, i see alot people with some sweet stereo systems in there cars, and the ZX had some fancy stereo for a stock system AFAIK, but I don't know how much junk I can run with this alt. I plan to run a single 8 or 10" sub, two 6x9s, and two smaller speaker in the kick panels probably 6", and for all this probably a midsize amp. Do you guys run this much in a Z without upgrading to a 90 or 100 amp alternator? I am wil…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
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Disclaimer: I have a Ford small block in the car, but all stock gauges are retained and they all work. I didn't do the swap or wiring myself, the previous owner did; hence some confusion. Car is a 74 260Z Normally the gauges work fine, but once in a while my tach will go wonky and read 0rpm while driving... at this point the temperature and oil pressure gauges start creeping up, and the fuel gauge starts creeping downward. The temp gauge approaches red and the oil pressure gauge goes up to about 3/4 (normally its around 1/3 at idle). The fuel gauge slowly goes down to 1/4 despite the tank being almost full. When the tach springs back to life, the other gauges go back to …
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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My mechanic is recommending a new voltage regulator for my bone stock 1975 280z. I installed a new battery a couple of weeks ago, and now my temp gauge is reading much hotter than it ever has, and the battery gauge indicates a slight overcharge, which the mechanic confirms. He suggests a solid-state voltage regulator. Opinions? If this is the way to go, does anyone know what Nissan part I should be asking for that will fit/work on my Z? Or, should I just get an NOS from Ebay? If that is best, is one brand better than another? There is a wide price differential, but I don't want to save money and get a bad part. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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The internally regulated alternators (used on the 78 and beyond) use a sense wire to control the alternator output. If the voltage on the sense wire is too low, it bumps the voltage up, and if it's too high, it cuts the alternator output down. Question is... On the cars that came native with the internally regulated alternator, where did they connect the far end of that sense wire? My engineering sense tells me that it would be best to connect the sense feedback wire right to the "+" terminal on the battery, but that's not what they did. And unfortunately this isn't the kind of info you can glean from a wiring diagram. According to the wiring diagram, it's connected right…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
I've been trying to track down the source of my "IGN" fuse blowing within seconds of turning the key to "ON". From my probing around with a multimeter, I've discovered that the green wire side of the fuss holder is getting continuity with ground (i.e. the dash metal frame. I've looked for a wiring schematic that has the green wire on the fuse box transitioning to a red/blue wire after the 6 wire connection but, all the diagrams that I've found don't show the wire changing colors!! From my probing around, I've discovered that this wire goes to the hazard switch but, cannot figure out where it would be coming in contact with the dash frame. I have the dash out of the car, f…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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I have a very strange problem, my wipers do not work with the engine running but work with the engine turned off ??
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Like many of us with 40+ year old cars, components get old and tired, among them being our Turn Signal Switch Assembly. I had a recurring problem of not flashing the front passenger turn light and the dash indicator light. At first, I disassembled the slide switch and cleaned the contacts. This helped for a while. Then next time I disassembled the unit, the contacts looked clean enough so I did some continuity tests on the switch itself. the lights worked OK with the un-mounted switch but failed again after re-assembly. Jiggling the loosely mounted switch got an intermittent operation. Observing the operation of the switch I noticed there was a lot of free play in the va…
Last reply by djwarner,
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