Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
-
- 29 replies
- 4k views
Also, I am thinking of aftermarket gauges. Who makes the best fit? Brand new to the gauges ideas...
Last reply by SteveJ, -
-
- 9 replies
- 3.9k views
After running my 240z for 20 to 30 minutes and then parking the car if i leave the engine on at idle the rpm tends to lower intermittently to 500 rpm. If i decide to turn the lights on it will lower a Little bit more until the engines shuts off. This problem is really annoying as i am worried that once i put an AC kit to the car i would be having the car shut off immediately. Please advise which direction should i take before installing the AC to the car.
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 10 replies
- 6.5k views
Hey all, Been lurking for a few months, slowly restoring my new-to-me 78 z and loving it, BUT... I've hit a wall with an electrical problem concerning the starting system. Some background: I replaced the fusible links with maxi-fuse blocks, located in the cabin by the fuse board on the passenger side Moved the relays from the engine bay to inside the cabin, back of firewall under the heater fan Re-made the primary wire loom from the battery to the new maxi-fuse blocks and new 8GA leads to the starter New battery, plenty of juice, lights work fine The car started fine, ran great for several weeks, drove it to work and came out at the end of the day, turned the key and and …
Last reply by no.never, -
- 17 replies
- 3.1k views
I just picked up my first Z last Thursday and since it has been raining all weekend I haven't had a chance to really do anything. The person who I bought it from of course said it was running and driving good I just needed a coolant temp sensor. So when I finally got it home I order the coolant tempt sensor and went for a quick spin around the block. The car wouldn't go over 20mph and it would sputter at that speed. So further investigation under the hood lead me to find this. (I've done research all weekend and haven't been able figure it out so any input is greatly appreciated) Guessing glass fuses are supposed to go here: Water Pump connections don't look right e…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I jumped on Autometer's website, and it looks like 1000.00 for all new gauges for the Z. Wow, thanks but no thanks. Anyone have a cheaper/better idea? Thanks all Curtis
Last reply by CEgg11, -
- 12 replies
- 2.2k views
Have been trying to get the Z started the last few weeks with no luck. It was running like a top last fall before I put it to bed, the only things I've changed over the winter that might effect the ignition system is that a 140 amp alternator was swapped in and new MSD plug wires - DSI Spark Plug Wires | | Datsun Spirit, Inc. were added. I have checked and rechecked all the usual suspects then I set up my remote starter so I could crank the engine and watch the actual spark from the plugs as they are pulled and grounded against the head. The first 2 sparks are big and fat, after that they peter off to a very tiny spark as I continue to crank. That sounds like the coil to …
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 0 replies
- 4.6k views
I recently purchased SPAL USA 37000148 Two-Door Power Lock Kit for my 280z. Also I purchase Viper 3105V alarm kit. SPAL 37000148 kit comes with 2 actuators and 5+2 wires harness. Also I purchase the switch. The wiring harness is using 5+2 wires. Since I'm planning to install speaker, power window kit, I would like to reduce the number of the wires. Therefore, I prefer to get rid of original wiring harness and just run 2 wires for the door lock. When I research the12volt.com mentioned I need 2 relays to operate lock/unlock function. I'm not sure whether I need total 4 relays (2 per actuator) or just one set (2 relays) only. Here is what I'm planning to wire actuator…
Last reply by tamo3, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
Okay so today I decided to remove the three gauges from the center of the dash to replace the bulbs. Had the MSA 4w bulbs that are to long. I purchased those Eiko green certified bulbs some members have been talking about. They are also 4w but, they are no where close to the MSA 4w bulbs. They are definitely considerably dimmer than the other 2 gauges. Bummer. Anyone experience the same thing?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
Hey everyone, I've read the forums on adding a headlight relay set-up for Z cars, and saving switches and directing more voltage to the headlights makes perfect sense to me. But, I'm a little confused about what package to get, and the prices are really different. For example, Black Dragon sells a kit for $30: Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto Seems pretty straightforward...but the Datsun store sells one for $156.00 Headlight Relay Kit 70-72: Electrical Z - Lighting - 20030-EBE - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it! I hate doing things twice, so I'd rather have something that will last than so…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
I have been saving 280Z plugs for the voltage regulator and have gathered quite a few over the years. Was wondering what the interest would be if I make a few of the a plug and play plugs for the internal to external alternator upgrade. It would be like the ones you see made by Dave for 240's but for the 280Z.
Last reply by jimbob_racing, -
- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
Hi! I have a problem with my tach. It only goes up to 500 rpms. It moves a little bit when I rev the engine, but no more than 550rpms at the most. When I stop the engine it goes back to 0 rpms, so there is a signal there. What is most likely to be the problem here? I just got a new 1.6ohm resistor and the coil is stock (I think). Regards, Tomzern
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
I dropped my gas tank for cleaning. The fuel gauge hasn't worked in a while. Checking the sending unit I'm getting ohm readings close to spec plus fluctuation from full to empty. Back at the tank area upon doing the gauge check by grounding the yellow (live), the gauge is supposed to bury the needle, nothing happens. Connecting the hot and ground to the meter I'm getting continuity reading. From those indications it appears I need a new gauge. Rebuilt are $200 which I will get if what I'm doing I is correct. Are there any other tests available?
Last reply by rocketdog,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.