Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
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Just looking for some advice or direction. I upgraded to the 60 AMP internally regulated alternator some time ago and made the proper wiring changes. I have recently found some issues with my fusible links and have for the most part corrected those. Loose connections and some corrosion cleaned up and pressed down a little. Running voltage improved to 14.7V (good). Was seeing as low as 10V. Issue is that I used snap lock splices (big blue things) for the wiring change on the alternator upgrade and it appears that when I shake the mess of wires and splices I get some variation in voltage at the battery. I would like to redo the splicing using some other method. Is so…
Last reply by bhermes, -
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I am going to put a low pressure cutoff switch on my 71Z. I got a brass T and a nipple from Home Depot. I can not get the nipple threaded in the block. It threads into the T fine. The oil pressure sender threads into the T and the block just fine. The nipple just won't go in the block. I held the nipple and the oil pressure sender up, side by side and the threads look the same. Same pitch, etc. I don't get it. Has anybody had any trouble like this or have you used something else? Thank you, TimsZ
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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On my 240 there is a 16ga green/white wire from the ignition switch to the back of the tach then becomes a black/white wire, also 16ga that goes to and powers the ignition coil. Would there be an advantage in changing those 16ga wires for 14 or 12ga? 16ga just seems kind of thin to power the whole ignition system. Thanks, chris
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 40 replies
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So I did the upgrade, but when I couldn't find the correct green-red wire that was explained herehttp://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html, I tried to unplug some of the other wires from the triangular/3wire plug. One side is all black and the other is red blue n green. This guy seems to have had the same issue. 280zx Alternator Swap Into 75 280z - Z-Car - Ratsun Forums Car runs now, but the headlights won't turn on. The driving lights do. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any help would be great. I'm now looking through the wiring diagrams I'm finding online. Here's a shot of her....
Last reply by nissanthanh, -
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Hey all, Im looking for the 240Z Distributor Mounting Timing Bracket. Not sure if I'm calling it the right name, but i've attached a pic of it. Im located in NC. I have a "new" dizzy, just need this bracket with the timing marks on it, i didn't know i was supposed to take it off the old one and keep it. email is best, bstznut@hotmail.com (please send a pic of the bracket as well? the attached pic is from the web..so not sure if its 100% correct)
Last reply by BOOST_JUNKIE, -
- 10 replies
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Yesterday while washing my '73 I found a small hole in my Cibie HCR (rock). These headlights were installed by the P.O. a long time ago. Are they still available? The light still works, but it won't when water gets in. I would like to replace the unit with one the same or at least similar enough so you can't tell the difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Cheers, Mike
Last reply by an_unusual_eye, -
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I have two (2) rear windows from a couple of Datsun 240Z Series 1 that I will be selling; however, I have no idea on how to test the defroster grid. Each window has two separate connection tabs to 'power' the grid(s); how do I test? Do you test the grids together, or are they two separate grids that are tested separately? How? Thank you for any help you can provide.
Last reply by Fred Sigarto, -
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I took some photo's of my EFI manifold with the ground wire connecting to the frame for a fellow member. This is the only ground I could find. The EFI harness doesn't have any grounds and seems to rely on this wire for grounding. I think mine is still the original ground wire. Chas
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Does this look right or is it off? Does it need to be rotated one tooth CCW?
Last reply by olzed, -
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]69880[/ATTACH] Trying to fix my right front turn signal, getting voltage but not enough current to the bulb, mechanic told me to check hazard light switch for corrosion (builds up because it never gets used). Mine doesn't look like the other pictures posted. Can't believe there's that many wires going in that tiny box. Can I open this thing and clean the contacts, like the earlier ones? Do I need to remove the screw in the back to remove it? I can't even get my head up high enough under the dash to see the thing. Don't know if I can get both hands up there to unhook (and re-connect)the two wiring harnesses. Hate doing this but got to have the turn signal.
Last reply by Stanley, -
- 10 replies
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On a basic automotive relay where #30 is power in, #87 is power out and #85 and #86 are the two sides of the coil with one side usually being the signal and the other side is ground; why does a layout like this work as well? No ground going to the relay? This diagram is from Pete Paraska site, Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Thanks, Chris
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Has anyone tried the new gauge bulbs from MSA? I see that they have discontinued the old, junky ones that would melt the gauge lens and burn out in months. I just got through a whole ordeal replacing an old MSA speedo bulb only to have it burn out the next day, finally replacing them with Wagner BP53's which are 1 watt and dim. Planning my next move. Here's the link to the new ones from MSA. They got the right size now and the description looks good. But so did the description for the old junk bulbs. Motorsport! Dashboard Bulb Kit (15), High Luminescent, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Old junk …
Last reply by Mikes Z car,
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