Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1k views
I am sure many of you fellow Z owners have installed an electric fan on the radiator. I ordered an aluminum radiator and have a 12v fan to install on it. Where is the most common point to tap into the wiring system? I have a thermostat with a capillary tube as a sensor to install in line with the hot wire. Thanks, Charlie
Last reply by Coastalman, -
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- 11 replies
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I have recently received my 1972 Datsun 240z and have started checking all the interior and exterior lights, most seem okay but have found the following problems: 1- Front Right Turn light is not flashing when engaging the turn light switch to the right. The rear light does work and flashes but the front does not. Even in the dashboard the right arrow is not flashing. My mechanic says it is the wiring harness of the lamp and that it may have a broken internal ground: Datsun 240Z/260Z Parking & Turn Signal Lamp (To Aug.-'74) He also recommends changing the flasher relay for the turn signal switch. This seems ackward as the tailight are working correctly when activating…
Last reply by Stanley, -
- 2 replies
- 852 views
By the choke levers there's 2 light symbols with a P in each light symbol. There's an (ON) for each light symbol. The PO took some switches out and put his own in. What is that switch for? Or is their 2 switches since there's 2 ON's? Any help? Thank you, TimsZ
Last reply by timsz, -
- 17 replies
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Hey guys, Does anybody know of any kits or how to install LED taillights turn signals etc. as well as the wiring harness updates and where I could get them? I've heard theyre out there but I don't know where I'd find them. -Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 1.5k views
New to the forum and didn't see any threads. I've seen many pics of wipers sticking up and not laying down. I can get a new motor but wanted to see if there was a simple fix.
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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- 708 views
I cleaned them up and they seem to be working OK, but the rubber seal around both of them shot. Anyone know where to get replacement rubber seals for these? I can find where they sell the switches, but not the rubber seals. This is on my 76 2+2. Gary
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
- 27 replies
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Today was the first day in a while that was dry enough for me to really drive the Z vigorously and safely. I noticed that my car is losing almost all power at 4000 rpm. The stuttering sound it makes is like its run out of gas, but then it starts backfiring. Seems like both from the exhaust and intake at times. This only happens above ~4000 rpms, in all gears. It idles fine, and drives fine at low RPMs. Since I haven't been driving it in that fashion real recently, I'm not really sure when the problem started. However, the car has a new rotor, distributor cap, pertronix ignitor, alternator upgrade and battery. I really feel like its an ignition problem. I immediately suspe…
Last reply by zKars, -
- 9 replies
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Hello All, Well as usual, if all else fails fall back on the forum pros. I have the dash back in and I am hooking everything back up and installing the interior. There is a black wire with a bullet connector hanging next to the speedometer. It looks like it is coming out of the harness directly above the speedometer and the end is missing so I can't tell what was there originally. I don't see anything that looks like it is close in the wiring diagrams. See the picture for clarification on what I see. Of course it is the only wire unhooked and not labeled when it was removed!!! The next step is to pull the dash again but I don't know if that would really benefit me.…
Last reply by JeffMopar, -
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Hi, I have a 1973 240z, rewired the car with an EZ wire harness, and I have upgraded to a 60 amp alternator from a 280zx. I've driven the car fine until I had an issue of the alternator overcharging. The original 60 amp ended up testing bad, so I replaced it, and made sure to test the new (re-manufactured ) one I got. It tested fine, but when I installed it in the car, I hooked up a multi-meter and it was going up to 15.7 even after warming the car up, and putting load on it, including lights and an electrical fuel pump. Anybody have any idea what could cause this? Such as a wire too small going into the voltage regulator, or just an alternator that instantly went bad? O…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I want to add a fuse block to the engine bay to help remove some of the high current flowing to the stock fuse block and ignition switch. So far I've installed Dave Irwin's headlight upgrade harness and parking light harness. The new engine bay fuse block I would power the electric rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump and starter relay. I'm thinking about using this block, 100/30A LED Micro Blade Fuse Block | Princess Auto Can I assume that it can handle 100amps total and no more then 30amps on anyone circuit? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 5 replies
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After Googling around for the last few hours, it seems that there's a few threads spread across several forums regarding this problem. I hate to beat a dead horse, but I'm new to Datsun's as I ended up with my particular 280Z in a trade for some off road parts. Overall the car is in awesome shape and appears to have been well loved by its previous owner(s) More amazing to me is that everything in the car works, it starts and runs great. But since the day it rolled into my shop, about 2 weeks ago, the turn signals and hazard lights do not come on. The headlights work, all the gauges work, brake and tail lights, side markers come on. Hell, even that stupid light under the…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
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So what i am dealing with is a 74 260z coupe with a 5 speed from a 280z and the starter on it is from a 280zx. Initially I use to have issues with the key ignition just clicking over, so I bypassed that with a push start to turn the starter over, after that resulted in the same outcome after a good while I decided to install a stand alone starter silinoid and ran the push start to it then to the starter. Now my issue is the start just spins, Ive had the started tested at a local autoparts retailer and it passed, I even tried a new starter and new battery all with the same outcome, When looking at the flywheel it doesnt seem to be to far gone that it wouldnt be engaging. …
Last reply by Mark Maras,
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