Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Just noticed my left and right turn signal light not working. Any clues on where i should start? I guess it could be the tired relay. The intermittent switch does work and the bulbs all around work.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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My washer pump was DOA, along with all the hoses to & from the jets. I decided to fix it all while I have the cowl apart I have stashes of Volvo parts, so I made a Volvo (VDO) pump fit. These were used for all Volvo 700/900 series from 83-98, so readily available. Later models use a large inlet that plugs directly into the tank, so none of those will work. Only had to bore out the factory sleeve to retain the new pump in the same location. Made an adaptor pigtail using the factory pump wiring. Pump is larger than original, still no issue with space Making an adaptor pigtail using the original pump harness Pump …
Last reply by LorenB667, -
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I have a 1973 Z and the fuel gauge is showing full, even though I emptied the tank and added only about 1 gal. This is a new fuel gauge component in the tank, swapped in in the last year. It seemed like it started having this problem after I put in a Pertronix Ignitor starter, but that doesn't seem to make sense. Here is a pic of the wiring at the tank, and 2 pics from ballast area under the hood.
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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I have a 1973 Z and the fuel gauge is showing full, even though I emptied the tank and added only about 1 gal. This is a new fuel gauge sending unit in the tank, swapped in in the last year. It seemed like it started having this problem after I put in a Pertronix Ignitor starter, but that doesn't seem to make sense. Here is a pic of the wiring at the tank, and 2 pics from ballast area under the hood.
Last reply by Dadsun, -
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I'm nearing an attempted start up on my 73 complete restoration. The 73 was originally a auto with dual points, I've converted to a manual with roundtop carbs, intake and distributor with single points from a 72. I trying to interpret the timing plate in the distributor. Attached are two pics, one from the 73FSM the other an actual pic of the indicator on the distributor. There is not a similar pic in the 72 FSM. The pic from the 73 shows 3 lines pointing to the indicator. Unfortunately, there are two arrows pointing to the bottom line labeled 4 degrees and 8 degrees. The center line and the top line have arrows but no labels. I'm assuming a misprint. The second …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello to all, I've just got my plating setup working and now want to zinc and yellow chromate everything in sight. I've seen photos of Z horns with freshened plating so I have hope. I took mine apart and am wondering if the back can be plated and if that requires grinding the rivets off to remove the guts. Is this a bad idea? Any input is appreciated. Horn2.pdf Horn1.pdf
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
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Does anyone know if the OEM oil pressure sender had a wirelug connector or a bullet style? I don't see a picture of it in the FSM. I'm looking to replace the oil pressure sender on my 4/74 260Z. The one on the car has a wire lug with a screw that holds the wire in place. All the replacement units i've found have a bullet style connector. Before I cut wiring to change connectors I thought I'd ask around. If the correct one is with the wire lug, can a replacement be found anywhere?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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I installed the technoversions tachmatch voltage booster on my early 260z today so I can have the stock oem tach working off of the msd 6a ingition direct. at first it was about 1500 rpms to high, and when I did start playing with resistors, I found that a 35k resistor worked with accuracy. the only problem I have is when the electric cooling radiator fan comes on the tach drops down and then back up to normal after the fan is running. now my thoughts are to maybe add a diode in line with the resistor. I did wire the tachometer direct from the voltage booster. I am looking for some input from any electronic gurus. thanks
Last reply by kully 560, -
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So I'm starting the process of restoring my dash harness, trying to identify some of the terminals that weren't connected to anything or don't match anything in the wiring diagram. I'm hoping there's some wiring gurus that can help. I've been using the 71 early diagram as I believe that's what my car is. I hope this isn't too confusing....
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
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So as not to thread jack another thread. In post #14 of this thread It talks about current driven tach in the 240Z and voltage driven tach in the 260Z and up. Does current mean the amps increase as the revs increase and likewise voltage means voltage increases with revs? I have a tach issue where my tach works fine from idle to about 3000 revs and then pretty much stays close to 3000 for all higher revs. I have a ZX electronic dizzy and the balast resistor has been removed (I didn't personally do this, but an old school Z guy that I trust did it for me). All was well for about 3 years (probably no more than 4000 miles). Then one day about 5 years ago the t…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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Hi guys, I just noticed when replacing my speakers that the voltage going to the speakers themselves is very low. I used a test light and the light that shines from the left and right speaker power wires is very dim. I tried using a multimeter for an exact reading but I must not be doing something wrong because it's reading basically 0. Is the speaker voltage stepped down from 12v or are they supposed to be getting a full 12v?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 11 followers
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Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color…
Last reply by DHA280Z,
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