Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
-
- 11 replies
- 1.5k views
so i followed the instruction on the alt upgrade and it all works and worked well. however today after starting it up and i finally got the heat going! i noticed the plug with the diode looked funny. heres a picture, any ideas on what may have caused this? it was running before i took the tape off and ya. heres the pic. almost forgot, another question is where or what is the second ground wire for on the climate controls? heres a picture. i found on what the one on the left side was for. the right side i dont know. also im gonna add that the design of these things and taking them apart and putting back together was not well though out. having the screw in the back a…
Last reply by 3ryce, -
-
- 13 replies
- 2.6k views
Hi, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post. My car is a 1976 280Z 2+2. I have removed the dashboard of my car to work on the hoses in the AC system and re-upholster the top foam. After re-installing the dashboard I have 2 problems: Headlights won't turn on. All other lights do. The brake light in the Speedometer is on and the brakes are way too low. I have reviewed the switches and the fusible links and they are all Ok. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Thanks,
Last reply by chuys, -
- 7 replies
- 2.1k views
I use a couple devices that get power via a USB port connection. Both require about 500mA. Has anyone seen a product that could be wired into the car's electrical system (probably the cigarette light circuit) and installed permanently? I would probably put it near the hazard switch under the radio. Yes, I have a USB power port that plugs into the cigarette lighter jack, but you have to take it out for shows, and an installed unit would be more convenient to use and have an OE look to it, if done well. thxZ BTW- I might get a new radio with a USB data port in the face, and that might be useful for charging things. Does anyone know what the current output of the faceplat…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 3 replies
- 3.2k views
Guys, New here, after searching for a little over a year, I finally broke down and purchased a 71' 240z. After driving it home, I realized the interior gauge lights do not work, and a few other things are a little weird as well. I have not broken the Multimeter yet, but wanted to see what you guys thought, perhaps this is a common issue? Here are the details: Interior gauge lights do not work when opening the door, or switching on the headlights. The dome light, behind my head on the headliner does work. Map light doesn't work, from what I can tell, the cig lighter does not work either. There is a aftermarket radio that I fear as a hack job behind it, it is wired …
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
What wire near the radiator does the engine bay light plug into? Does that wire come from the engine bay harness or is it a separate wire? I don't see a spare wire near the radiator to plug the inspection light into on my car. The 72 FSM (I actually have a 1970 car) shows the inspection light red/blue wire going to the fusebox and changing from red/blue to green/blue as it nears the fusebox. Thanks for any info.
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
- 16 replies
- 1.3k views
Hey i'm new to this site and i'm having some trouble with my 76 280Z it all started after i changed my starter (all my lights where working fine before changed my starter except my turn signal the switch broke) now none of outside (quarter,brakes,headlight) lights turn on except the reverse. all my fuse are good just put brand new ones in. any help/suggestion would be appreciated oh for got to mention my dash lights do work except for oil/temp
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
Hello, I am re-installing my dash and I have run into one small problem. I got everything hooked up, but I am having a problem with the ammeter conversion. The AMP/Fuel gauge is from a 1976 280z. I used he following instructions in my swap: "Basically you just disconnect the two fat White/Red wires (maybe just white?) from the back of the ammeter and re-connect them. Insulate the living daylights out of this connection, and not with just electrical tape. Use heat shrink, preferably the stuff with the glue on the inside. Clean the contacts first. Bolt them together VERY tight. Oh, and take a new 18 gauge wire from this same spliced connection and connect it to the + termin…
Last reply by mr_han_solo, -
- 6 replies
- 1.1k views
Ok, My 1978 280Z alternator failed , and I went to AZ to get a new one. The new one has somethings different on it than the original one I had. Heres a pic with the stuff. It appears to be charging, the battery is now back up the volts. The volt gauge inside shows a 15? volt being indicated at highway speeds, and 13 or so at idle. So does anyone now what that white plug is for on the new one? and the condensor looking device and if I need it on there? Also, I went back to AZ to have the check the battery, and the alternator, they said its showing good voltage but the VR is bad?? really? even tho it charges ? Could it be related to not having that new white plug plu…
Last reply by txvepr, -
- 14 replies
- 1.7k views
Can someone tell me how to conduct a circuit test? Specifically EF-37 for the TPS idle. What results am I looking for?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 40 replies
- 9.4k views
What would you pay if I told you I might have a fix for the dim parking lights?? Right now i'm working on my brothers early 240Z's (taillights, sidemarkers, and front parking lights) With 12 volts the battery, I put a voltmeter onto the left rear sidemaker. It measured about 9.5 volts (give or take 0.2 volts) When I added power via a relay near the passenger side kick panel, the voltage kicked up to 11.2 volts and the lights got significantly brighter. Even the dash lights got brighter and use of the dimmer switch was still present. I'm going to do a lot of tests before making them for the open public but I thought I'd give you guys (and gals) a heads up on a posible …
Last reply by dat260, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
I just installed a maxi fuse distribution block in my 77 280z and now I just get a moan when the key gets to the start position. I've taken it back apart and double checked the connections. 4 gauge in from + starter, 4 out. Alternator circuit with 80 amp fuse and the rest 50 amp. I was chasing down another charging/alternator problem but it was starting very easily prior to this switch. Has anyone seen this before?
Last reply by n2deep, -
Air Flow Meter 1 2
by LBO730- 18 replies
- 1.9k views
I'm getting desperate fellas! I'm sure it's been covered somewhere but here's some facts. Been working on this 75 resto for 6 years. Complete disassembly and reassembly. It's done but I can't get it started. I've been thru every test in the EFI bible at least twice. Passes all the tests. I have swapped in a refurbished ECU, still no change. I have 38 lbs of consistent fuel pressure. I have good spark at the coil and all 6 plugs. New fuel injectors and connectors. The distributor is in correctly (not off 180). I've double checked every electrical connection I can come up with. The air flow meter doesn't pass some of the tests. Can a faulty air flow meter actu…
Last reply by siteunseen,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Parman
