Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 2.6k views
Hello, I purchased my first Z car yesterday and while it may be kind of rough, the guy told me that it was running when he parked it. Unfortunately that was two years ago and it looks like he cut the cables when he took the battery out, or the battery was stolen and all of the cables were cut. I installed new terminals today and I am just trying to see if I can get the car to start. Unfortunately, it looks like the car was replaced with an after market electric fuel pump and I have no idea how it’s supposed to work. I have some questions and my hypothesis, and I have presented it with pictures and a diagram. I am just wanting some conformation that what I am presenting…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Hello crowd I know its been a while but I have been trying to get #6333 back on the road again after a main harness fire back in 2005. I was able to scavenge an exact copy of a good unmolested harness from an early 1972. #6333 was built in the spring of 1970 but the harness is the exact same. After many weeks of of cleaning the harness up an soldering some ragged spots and recovering it I have it installed and all connections completed. I put a battery in it this morning but nothing inside works. No lights, the starter does not turn over, no brake lights, NO NOTHING. Can someone shed some light on something I may have missed. At the moment I am at work and it is really bu…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hey mates If I updated my Z to a ZX dizzy - which I have done - can I completely remove the stock ignition box located on the kick pannel? I'm just making 100000% sure. Thanks Jan
Last reply by Pomorza, -
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New here... I have a 51,320 2-owner 1972 240z and love it! But... the brake lights and turn signals have quit. Here is what works; Headlights Hi/Low beams Parking lights Running lights Hazard Lights Looking for suggestions on what to do. Thanks.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I picked up a blower switch for my 72 at a junkyard. The medium and high positions shorted out, but low wouldn't pass any current. Taking it apart (CAUTION: SPRINGS AND BALL BEARINGS!) I discovered what I took to have been grease liberally applied throughout. I cleaned it out, because if it were grease, it had begun the process of reverting back to its natural state. It makes sense to me that the strictly mechanical ball bearing side would use a bit of regular (lithium complex) auto grease, but is that what was applied to the electrical contacts? Or a different sort of grease (a dielectric?)? Or could I lube it with a 'contact cleaner with lubricant' that I've used o…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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Hi! I was having some trouble with my left headlight being really dim compared with the right hand side (yet according to my multimeter, the connection was still pulling 12V), so I looked around and found it might be a fuse problem or a ground problem. I looked here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/4684-fuse-box-73z.html Found the fuse that I needed to check, the upper right hand one. I pulled it and just for kicks, turned the lights on. Nothing changed. I still had the dim left hand light. Um wat? Put the fuse back in after dusting if off with my fingers, the light is now 100% But I think that the fact that the left hand light still worked, albeit at on…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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The engine inspection-work lamp has a round rubber ring under the white plastic bulb cover... It keeps the moisture out, and the bulbs last longer Where can you get new ones? I was thinking of making one using plaster-of-Paris and the usual black RTV silicone stuff. thxZ
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I noticed these two overheated connectors to the right of the glove box (above passenger's right knee in the U.S.) on my 240z when I got it: To fix them I soldered the four crimped connections between the wires and the two connectors to eliminate further overheating. I also slightly squeezed the gripping side edges of the two female connectors to grip harder on the connection and sprayed the connectors with deoxit, following up with dielectric grease. I understand that one of these two white wires goes to the battery and the other one goes to the alternator and between them they carry all of the current that goes through the fuse box. I have three questions: 1. Ar…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I replaced the stock coil on the driver's fender with an MSD Blaster 2 with MSD ballast, and noticed the stock coil has a condenser mounted on the ballast. There is what looks to be a second condenser on the distributor itself. Is it normal to have two? Should I replace both with new units?
Last reply by widget777, -
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I have a stock 78 z except I have installed a Mallory #4563901 distributor. I have not started the engine yet as I am building the engine up around a new long block. What are the capacitance ratings for the condensors on the alternator and the coil? Also, the Mallory instructions require a ballast resistor in the curcuit between the ignition switch and the coil + terminal. I cannot find any reference to a ballast resistor in my manuals. Was there a ballast resisitor put in by Datsun on the 78 models? If so, where is it located?
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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So hello and thanks! My early 260Z Has some problems i'll give you the specs.. *Stock motor early 4 screw SU's rebuilt by ZTherapy . *Mallory Unilite Distributor mechanical advance and some old Mallory coil that gets pretty warm when running. *I added light and turn signal relay kit some time ago. Everything else is stock. My problem is the coil is only getting like 9 to 11 volts max sometimes and makes me think i'm no getting good spark. Also sometimes car will crank fine, but won't spark unless unless I add a Jump box. What should I do? Is there a newer better ignition system I should be using that will help clean up and help car run better? Is there a shop or any one …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Previously my Z's original oil pressure gauge worked in the usual manner: at idle hardly no pressure shown, at higher revs the pressure would go up. I knew that it is the way these often work and wasn't too concerned. FYI I have Mallory Unilite dizzy and before it was installed with Mallory Coil with NO Ballast (this was done by the PO). Tach wasn't hooked up and wouldn't work even if I connected it. Then the head was off for porting and new cam. Soon after my Mallory coil went bad and I got a new MSD Blaster 2 and Ballast. I installed them and got the tach working too. But next thing that happened was that the oil pressure gauge now works the opposite way: at idle it sho…
Last reply by kingofapes,
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