Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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Alternator has bit the dust. I've done the headlight upgrade and I've got a pretty high amp stereo. Yesterday when running the stereo, lights, and windshield washer, the amp gave up the ghost. It was about the only mechanical component that hadn't been replaced or rebuilt. Since I'm running a higher load with accessories, I was thinking of making a change from the 78 60amp to the ZXT 70amp. I'm thinking this a good step without pushing the limits of my wiring. I've still got the OEM fuse box and fusible links. I'll upgrade those later, but I need the car back on the road, ASAP. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Good plan and step?
Last reply by 78sid, -
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Ok, so I have a 73 240z all stock. I currently have a blaster 2 ignition coil. The Tachometer worked with the original ignition coil. However does not with this one. I bought the 8920 adapter. However thats usless unless I buy the 200+ dollar 6A/AL. anyways, my question is to get it working what are my options besides buying the 6A. even if its a little more money. Like could I buy a MSD dizzy and a tachometer from a 280z or zx. or even a tach from speedhut. I kinda dont really want the adapters. and I want to avoid adding extra wires. So i guess you could say im looking for a almost just bolt in solution. Ive searched the thread over on hybridz but their replys seem to t…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Just bought a 77 280z. I noticed the spark plug wires have fine print on it says "Sumitmoto 1977". Does that mean my car still using the original factory wires after 36 years?! :paranoid: The wires looks okay though. No crack or anything. May be I should get some new NGK?
Last reply by bigwiki, -
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Yes I have searched the files for things to check... Recently my turn signals have stopped working. Here is what is working 1. Headlight switch ON: headlights on, taillights on,No front running lights,No Front Sidelights. 2. Emergency Switch ON: Front Flashers ON, Rear Flashers ON. 3. Turn Signal Left or Right: No Turn Signals Things done so far: All bulbs have been checked for breakage, all sockets where cleaned, and checked for rot. Circuit breaker for flasher appears good, and I don't have a dedicated turn signal CB as far as I can tell. Fusible links all appear intact, give a good continuity check. Turn Signal Switch circuits all check out good per FSM. CLeaned, …
Last reply by txvepr, -
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This is the latest problem with the '72 Z I bought back in the spring. For several months after buying my Z the running lights worked fine. Recently I drove the car to a restaurant for dinner and left the running lights on by mistake. They were on for about an hour when I came back to the car. I cut them off, started the car and drove off. As I was driving I noticed the dash lights were not working. I tried the dash light control and no luck. At the time I did not think about the running lights. When I did, the next day I checked and they were not coming on either. I checked fuses which turned out to be good. Before I really get into trying to run this down, are t…
Last reply by Coastalman, -
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hey guys so i just jumpstarted my car (cuz i left the lights on...otherwise the car's been running great recently) it was after that that i noticed i was overheating (like almost in the red) i checked out the radiator while it was still running and the fan wasn't running. is it supposed to turn on while the car is running or just once the engine is turned off? it looks like everything else works (no leaks or anything) but i havent checked out the thermostat or anything like that cuz i dont really know anything about how those work...womp womp... anybody got an idea of where to begin looking for the problem? oh also the temp gauge rises mostly when im idling but once i dri…
Last reply by Virto, -
hello, can anyone confirm that the early series 240s (7/70) have a metal squirrel cage fan under the passenger dash - or should it be a plastic fan? thanks Ken
Last reply by kenmataya, -
- 23 replies
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I am trying to hunt down a short in my ign system that's causing 20A fuses to blow as soon as I turn my ignition to the on or start position. I have tried using my multimeter but, apparently I'm not quite as good as I thought. I get a reading of 001 if I measure resistance between the B/W wire from the ign switch and the fusebox so that looks like it should but if I check between the B/W wire at the switch and ground I get 1485!! I also get the same reading if I check the opposite side of the fuse, the green wire. This leads me to a short to ground on the green wire side of the fusebox. Is this correct? It looks like the green wire goes to the tach, speedo meter and a few…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Hi Guys I need a little help here, i like to know the size of the stock battery, not # something but the actual size in inch or millimeters. Anyone ?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
electrical short 1 2
by dat260- 17 replies
- 2.3k views
Hi Guys, My car would not start after running a few hours, I hear that click sound from the starter. I changed the starter solenoid switch, I replaced the alt recently I check all the lights sockets and fixed the wires that looked frail ect. I used the multimeter to check voltage and everything is ok, its charging while running, the battery holds charge while engine off. But I still experience the sudden lack of electrical power to start the engine, Iam always boosting or push start. Once the car starts all light work and everything is bright. Now, the other day while I was checking for other possible loose wire I tried to start the car and I heard the clicking sound agai…
Last reply by dat260, -
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It has been over 30 years since I worked on a Z points distributor and I need the forum's help to see if I remember this correctly. I want to change the points on my stock '72 Z. Is it correct to be able to unbolt the distributor from the block, take it out, put in new points and condenser, set the points and put the distributor back in without losing timing? I think the shaft is keyed so that it can only go back in one way. Thanks, Charlie
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Ok, we were talking about this in the engine section but I figured this might be a beter section for my problem. I have an ecu from a 2.4 in my 280z... Some research shows that it is from a maxima. I have 2 questions: -Is it safe to leave this ecu in the z? -If not, if I replace it with the right ecu how do I match it to my afm? I have searched this "matching" topic and have not received a def answer. Some say it is not the a11 number but the real Nissan part number to match. I cannot find this 10 didgit part number anywhere.... Only what is on the stickers... I was told the "right" ecu is a11-600 000. This seems to be accurate. Manual trans. Current ecu sticker: A…
Last reply by Virto,
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