Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
So i did the sti swap everything is great except for 1st gear. When I let out the clutch (especially if it slow) I get a clunk and a funny grinding noise ? Everything is tight but the diff kind floats there anyway . Is everything OK ? I did have to use a press to get in one of the shafts and was a bit worried there. I was going to drive a bit more and change the oil to look for metal shavings . Any advice is welcomed.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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Gearbox ID 1 2
by Werup- 18 replies
- 2.9k views
Hi I have already search so many places, and cant really figure out which gearbox the PO installed in my car. Im asking in here because I have to order alot of parts from the US and im currently stock in Norway and my car is in Denmark. But have to order the parts so the car can get road legal this summer My gearbox needs some bushing and some seals, but im not a 100 % sure on what i have. Here what i think: - 5 speed close ratio from 1981 280z because: one mounting ear - Speedo bolt a 6 o'clock What confuses me: Short ears for shifter - close to straight gearshifter - bushing installation at shifter I have som pictures of gearbox but only installed, hope you gu…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 3 replies
- 796 views
Are the thread pitch and the bolt shank the same on cam and crank bolts? In other words, can i use a crankshaft bolt on a camshaft? I know the heads are a different size. I have an electric fuel pump. 280zx N/T. Thanks
Last reply by timsz, -
- 5 replies
- 910 views
When I rebuilt my motor I put the new timing set at hole 3 for more low end power. Reading Blue's tips I've found that will increase the timing 8 degrees with a new chain. I've also read that a good setting with the E12-80 distibutor is 12 -14 BTDC. So for an initial setting I should see the pulley mark line up with 5 on the timing scale for a total of 13 degrees BTDC? I've overloaded my thinking to the point of confusion. Thanks for any help, Cliff
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 4 replies
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I am sure this has been asked and answered somewhere in the archives but I haven't triggered the key words to find the answer. When replacing the engine in a 240 with a 280 for example, or when changing the head over to one that doesn't have the boss opened for the mechanical fuel pump, what is the best way to get a fuel pump up and running? I have a good running n42/n47 engine I am installing in a 240 but it of course doesn't have the boss opened up nor the lobe for the fuel pump (I assume). This car didn't come with the secondary electric pump. In keeping with an original appearance, my heart wants to install the mechanical pump. It seems more practical to put in an…
Last reply by Powderkeg, -
- 3 replies
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Besides of the trouble i am having with the bad temperature and oil Reading on my 1972 240z i am also considering on reverting to the original camshaft as the car is tending to fail when it is between 800 to 2,000 RPM. Once it reaches over 3,000 RPM it is really stable. The car actually has the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt. Is it really worth going back to stock cam???? if so what parts will i need to change?
Last reply by jmortensen, -
- 3 replies
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A couple of years ago I purchased a california 76 2+2 with a 5 speed trany. From what I've read, the 76 never came with a 5 speed so a previuos owner must have put one in from either a 240Z or a 280ZX. I'd like to know what year vehicle the trany came from, but I can't seem to find any numbers or codes on the trany itself, however, the top flange on the bell housing has the numbers; 7310524 Can anyone tell me if that number has any meaning with regards to ID'ing the trany? Thanks Gary
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 2 replies
- 941 views
Hello, Just swapped out the points, cap, rotor, and 1 of the two condenser's on my 1971 240z. I couldn't unscrew the "automatic" condenser without some clever contraption without taking the distributor off, so for now I just replaced the standard one. Now my question is, I took out what was a Nissan branded condenser and on the side it had a Rating of 0.22somethings (Funny symbol), the one I replaced it with is 0.25somethings. I purchased it off RockAuto and it said it was a OEM replacement so i'm a little concerned that it's not the same. The car fired right up, but it is still not running 100% correctly (Other issues) so I don't know if this is something I should wo…
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
- 3 replies
- 602 views
After finding a coolant leak around the head gasket area and while I was under the car I noticed a couple oil leaks. So the one I want tackle now is the oil pan gasket. After finding none of the pan bolts loose Iv'e decided I will replace the gasket. I'm not sure but will I be able to remove the pan without any clearance issues or will I have to loosen motor mounts and jack the engine up any to gain clearance?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
I've got a 76 2+2 and I'm wondering about greasing the universals on the drive shafts; there aren't any zerk fittings, but it looks like there are some screws; do I remove the screw and put a zerk fitting on to get grease in the universal and then put the screw back? If so, anyone remember what size metric zerk? Thanks Gary
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
- 4 replies
- 909 views
Looks like I have a coolant leak between the head and the block, right near the back of the engine, close to the transmission. I'm assuming this is clearly a head gasket? Not having much luck with this car so far. The oil is still clear (Not milky). Edit: Sorry. the photo is upside down, I can't figure out why. It's upright on my computer.
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
- 31 replies
- 4.1k views
Hi all, For almost a year I've been trying to troubleshoot an odd acoustic resonance that starts about 60 mph and gets worse as vehicle (not engine) speed increases. By 70 mph it's scary, but below 60 mph there are no symptoms. I'm not referring to exhaust resonance, and it reminds me of the way my Audi sounds when the sunroof is open but the windows are closed. Initially I suspected the tires, but after replacement with new Michelin's and road force balancing (twice) I replaced the driveshaft, half-shaft u-joints and had everything checked (multiple times) by a local shop. All of the suspension, bushings, bearings, transmission and engine mounts are new. I also chang…
Last reply by Coastalman,
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