Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Haines provides specs for the various distributors used on our cars. Specs include Idle degrees/RPM, upper and lower centrifugal advance specs, and upper and lower vacuum advance specs. In a recent thread it became apparent timing setting taken with a strobe varies considerably depending on whether the vacuum port was connected. Timing can be set with a strobe with the engine running or with a test light with the engine stopped. Since some of the distributors listed have a centrifugal advance effective at idle speed, I began to wonder just what is the appropriate method for setting timing. The factory service manual is less than explicit on the matter. I constructed a spr…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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To start with the car is a '71 "Z" with 280ZX running gear, motor, 5-speed, R200. I don't know what bearing is installed. Motor runs fine the car won't go into gear, but did shift a year ago when last ran. Before installing the slave I moved the fork back and forth to ensure the bearing wasn't froze up. Changed the master and slave (NAPA), still nothing. Fluid flows from the slave so that tells me there's fluid all the way down the line. During bleeds the pedal firms up but nothing comes out of the slave no air or fluid. Obviously there is no movement at the pushrod or fork. With everything connected I manually actuated the pushrod and can see the fuid in the mast…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I have two 240z, one the clutch pedal is nice and soft when pressed to change gear. The other 240z, the clutch pedal is hard to press, I already changed new clutch master and slave cylinders. The transmission is a 5 speed from 280z with unknown clutch. Do you know why the pedal is hard to press? Is it because it might have a performance clutch so stiffer spring? It is almost a chore to drive. Any advice and input greatly appreciated.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Early in the restoration of my 71 240, I took the head and block to a reputable engine machine shop and they milled enough off both to true them up. Now the body's done and I'm back to the motor, I am hearing that there is very little margin for milling on these engines. By the fit of the front timing cover, I figure 12 thou. was taken off the block, but I have no idea on the head. Can anyone advise me how to tell if the head is too thin? I know I can get spacers for the cam towers, but have no idea how to determine the number and thickness I should use, if any at all. And finally, assuming it all goes together, does anyone see any reason to employ the old hot-rodder…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I dropped my front crossmember to find I had 2 different engine mounts. Is one wrong or from a different model? Or a no-name engine mount? The one on the left looks correct.
Last reply by Ptero, -
- 6 replies
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Hello mates With the temps in the west where I live getting cooler I've noticed something rather interesting about my Z. When the car is started from a cold start - as in left sitting for a few horus and the motor is under 100 degrees - the engine will squeak on startup and run rather poorly for a few minutes. Poorly meaning this: if I press on the gas to raise the idle of rinstance the car will stumble. This only lasts a few moments - the poor running that is - and the said squeaking noise from the engine only lasts a few minutes. Once the engines been running maybe 5 minutes tops the noise is gone. The engine does idle rather low maybe 600 or so RPMs when I first start…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I'm very new to the classic Z scene and have gotten my hands on a cheap L24 block to cut my teeth on. The block was bored to 0.030" over by the previous owner - and from what I have gathered there are no pistons that come in this size. I have Googled this and have gotten some conflicting/nebulous information. I was wondering if it is possible to bore the L24 0.120" over to take the standard L28 pistons? Some posters have stated that an L24 block can not be safely bored over 0.080" as this would make the walls of the cylinders too thin. Others say there is no issue andthis has been done before. Any chance for a clarification and a little guidance to a serious newbie. T…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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recently installed a new clutch and slave cylinder into a 5 speed and i'm having trouble getting the clutch to fully disengage. the problem visibly manifests itself at the slave cylinder. when the pedal is fully depressed i'm only getting 1/2"+ of travel at the fork. pushrod at the master cylinder is fully extended. the transmission has been pulled again and we've verified that all of the parts are for a 5 speed coupe. collar and pressure plate match. current theory is that the pushrod on the new slave cylinder is just too short. the mechanic has suggested using an adjustable slave and fork from a 240. has anyone tried mating a 240 fork to a 280 collar, bearing, and cl…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I am determined to learn how to remove the head. I have bought several books, including the "how to rebuild your datsun engine". However for fear of costing me more than it should, I am interested in a set of knowledgable eyes and hands. I am in the Carson, CA area. I am willing to pay what it would cost a mobile mechanic to do the job. Please quote me for the headgasket repair. I would like to learn the process at the same time. My garage is semi-equipped. I have a compressor, wrenches, sockets, a radio, TV and beer. We will be working inside the garage where it is shaded from the sun and the elements. I need a quote for instruction. Daniel '73 240z Hack Job
Last reply by olzed, -
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]68115[/ATTACH]I'm putting an ACT clutch and pressure plate into 81 5-speed transmission. Will this clutch bearing sleeve holder work? It's 2 inches total length. If anyone has any info, thank you very much, TimsZ
Last reply by timsz, -
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Is there any way to reinstall the tensioner without removing the front cover? I am asking this for a friend.....He is always getting into trouble with his car. I mean this friend is fearless. He will take apart anything if he has a manual. Doesn't care if some Brit wrote it....doesn't care about the fuzzy pictures.....I told him not to do it but he went ahead and tried to replace the cam on his own! But he is afraid of being embarrassed. So that is why I am writing this on his behalf. Anyway he was replacing the cam and had the chain wedge in place but somehow the tensioner fell out. It is just laying there. Is my friend screwed and need to pop the front cover o…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hi guys, So I had to change out my timing chain and tensioner. The tensioner went bad and the chain stretched. I've gotten it all installed and am now to the point of installing the Oil Pump and Distributor, along with the Drive Spindle. The problem is, I can't seem to get the spindle to go in all the way, not even far enough to run the oil pump bolts. Shouldn't be that hard, I would think. The engine is in TDC, and I'm installing the spindle short side out, 5 degrees clockwise from the distributor bolt holes. It wasn't this hard to pull it, I know for sure. Any help could be greatly appreciated!
Last reply by Diseazd,
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