Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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I bought a Ron Tyler style front diff mount to replace the front diff strap, but I cannot find the torque settings in the Datsun FSM or Haynes manual. Can anyone help? If its in one of those manuals, then it is using some name that I am not expecting -Mike
Last reply by zKars, -
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Can anyone help identify the noise coming from my 240Z type "b" 4-speed transmission. Attached is a video. As you can hear there is a rattling that slows and comes to a stop when I depress the clutch pedal. The rattle speeds up at the end of the video when I give it some throttle in neutral. The transmission also sounds a little raspy through the first couple of gears. Don't mind my high idle I still needed to tune the carbs when this video was shot. Some background: Don't know if it matters but my 5/71 was supposed to come with a type "a" 4-speed but one of the previous owner swapped it out with a type "b" for reasons I don't know. I also know the previous owners "friend…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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Hi Everyone, Been quite a while since my last post, hope everything is good. I have a question for the L-engine builders here, related to raising compression in a street L-engine to 10:1. I've read that, with flat-tops, roughly .080'' must be milled off the head. Here's my question: Can anyone offer advice on whether it's better to mill that amount off both the block and head, or either the block or the head? My curiosity is in regard to excessive milling possibly (negatively) changing combustion chamber dynamics. Anyone have experience with this? Is there a best practice that should be...well...practiced? And I suppose a fair addendum could be, is the best solutio…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hi everybody! It's me, the "I can't believe I did that" guy..... :stupid: Well, believe it or not, I have another "learning experience" to share. So grab a coffee and get comfy. Working on a new friend's 78z over the last few days, trying to get it ready for an "out of province inspection". Your Canucks will know what I mean. When moving a car to new province, everything has to work, and no rust holes or no insurance. Quite a challenge for most Z's, this one is no different. While doing a million other things, we decided to investigate a small engine "rattle" that happens under any amount of power "on" application. Not good. Bad bearing, slap happy piston, loose valve…
Last reply by chaztg, -
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Hello, kind folks of CZC, long time lurker here! Normally I can figure out my issues through the vast information already here but this is the first problem I came across that I feel the need to post and get some more direct answers. The car cold starts every single time and runs from anywhere to 30 seconds to 2 minutes. The RPMs bounce from around 750 to 1,000 until it puts up a fight to stay alive and then stalls out. Very occasionally white vapors will pour out the carbs trying to crank her right back up. After that I will have to wait about 5 minutes for it to crank back up. Now the problem first arose with some bucking on the highway, normally around in the 2,000 to…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Since I just finished this, I thought I would take pics and document the install for those doing this in the future. 6 months ago, I had no idea how to do this and ended up on another site to get full details with pics. Now the info will be here for those who need. First step: Put number 1 cylinder at TDC. The alignment key on the crankshaft will be at 12 O'clock as shown in pic. This assumes that the head is not installed. Never turn crank or cam independant of eachother as this will bend valves or break things. Step two: On the head, ensure the cam alignment pin is at 12 o'clock as shown in the pic. Install head with gasket (I prefer the gasket well coated wit…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Let us all have a talk about compression, and timing. How much is too much, how to deal with it. And how to achieve the max amount of advance you can while not pinging. Enter the subject. My Datsun Spirit STR2.8 liter engine. L28 N42 Engine Block, N42 Cylinder Head base 87mm (bore) x 79mm (stroke) = 2817.8cc Combustion Chamber Volume: appx 43.5cc Piston above deck: appx 0.25~0.30mm Compression ratio: 10.5 : 1 Camshaft: STR274F Duration 274 Max Valve lift: 12.00~12.19mm Lobe: IN: 106, EX: 110, Lobe Center: 108 I have driven this engine hard for 2000 miles or so since it was installed. It has run beautifully. During 1000 mile rally the car ran without a hitch, bu…
Last reply by Davey G, -
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Hello, I need to replace the clutch in a 1972 240Z, 5spd. The car is not raced and is used for regular driving. It doesn't get hot rodded but will be driven fast. Do any of you have any suggestions for particular brands to purchase or to stay away from? Rock Auto has the best prices and selection that I've found but the prices for a clutch kit range from $90 to $150. Brands include Rhinopac ($90), Exedy ($112), Beck Arnley ($130), Valeo ($142) Advance Auto has a Perfection kit for $100. All of these kits come with pilot and release bearings and alignment tools. If you don't like any of these choices, what do you suggest. I will resurface the original flywheel. Thanks very…
Last reply by Otto Skorzeny, -
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What I am hoping to find with this thread is basically stock operating driveline angles for the S -30. Some folks just refer to them as pinion angles, but I would like to know all the angles from trans to diff. Since my car is not stock having the newer Nissan T-5, I had to alter the trans bracket to mount the trans, so offering up my pinion angles would not be stock. I am trying to come up with is how Nissan set the angles up for such a short driveshaft. I have been having vibration issues at higher speeds and I am almost positive it is the DS. I have set the angles to what SHOULD work by reading about it, but the Nissan engineers might have had something different in mi…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
Anyone else feel like the Nissan rear seals aren't up to snuff? My 73 just developed a pretty good rear seal leak. It has a new (blue) Nissan rear seal (2000 miles). Which seal works best for you? I'm going to go back with Felpro. I was going to replace the tranny with a 5 speed anyway, but it still makes no sense why a seal with that low mileage would start to leak. BTW, it isn't the groove that's the problem....I always allow for that.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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I'm just about ready to pull my head to change a head gasket. How much does an E31 head, cam, and valves weigh? After a day bending over the fenders pulling manifolds, my back is complaining. Just trying to figure out what I'm in for tomorrow. Is it a two man lift?
Last reply by djwarner, -
- 1 follower
- 66 replies
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I'm cured!! I'm not saying you will have the same correction but this mount is solid. For right at $100 it may be worth your time to try if you are trying to loose your CLUNK You will need the Ron Tyler Mount from Monkeyroost at HybridZ and you will need to purchase a Suspension Techniques GM Transmission Mount - I got mine from Summit - both totaled right at $100. I did have to grind off my fuel supply insulater bracket - I left the insulator in tact - the bottom screw from that insulator in my transmission tunnel was not allowing the mount to fit all the way up due to the screw sticking out from that insulator support. A little friendly help with a air hammer and the bo…
Last reply by grannyknot,
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