Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 18 replies
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First off, Happy Father's day to all. Recently I had just finished the daunting task of front timing cover removal / tensioner reset, following the all so common rookie mistake of letting the chain slack, during a cam install (stock regrind @ Schneider .460 270/280) Thanks to the abundance of information on here, I 'thought' I was being pretty meticulous on reassembly, verified the crank/cam timing/TDC to be correct, however the end result is the distributor/oil pump being off by a tooth or two: What happened: It's a '72 with a 280zx distributor, my mistake was interpreting one of the reference pictures where the rotor hat aligns with the vacuum diaphragm, not realizin…
Last reply by kensval, -
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- 18 replies
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Hi All, I've decided to replace the 4 speed in my 73 with the 280ZX close ratio 5 speed, specifically the FS5W71B. Eiji at Datsunspirit.com will be rebuilding the trans and has asked if I prefer original Nissan parts or aftermarket. There are several kits available including this one for a FS5W71 from drivetrain.com Not sure what the "b" suffix means with respect to this kit. I would like the highest quality kit available, so if any of you have had experience with this please share your experiences. Peter
Last reply by tamo3, -
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Does anyone know where the procedure for changing the oil is on the 280Z, including how to reinstall the drain plug? It doesn't seem to be anywhere in the tune-up section. There is an entry to tighten the drain plug 14 - 22ft-lb. Is that all, besides using a new copper crush washer with each oil change?
Last reply by LeonV, -
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First a little background... I bought a Web Racing #91 grind camshaft about 15 years ago for my '78. I installed it and it ran like crap. After some research, I learned that the stock EFI doesn't like aftermarket cams, so I pulled the cam, springs, rockers, etc. out and stored them. Jump ahead many years and I decided to install the Web cam in my L26 race car with SU's. I did that in 2011 and ran a 25.5 hour long endurance race with the engine. The cam did great and it pulled to 7k, but the engine was just not making enough power, so this winter I bought an F54 engine and began my build. I pulled the Web cam and corresponding hardware out of my L26 and started asse…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have brand new exedy clutch and 77 5 speed. Here are symptoms: -When cold and put to reverse, it makes loud whining sound for few seconds, then it stops. Happens sometimes when put to 1:st gear too. -I have bleeded clutch twice and adjusted slave cylinder rod several times to find proper "release" for clutch, for some reason i have to pump twice when cold to be able to engage gears. After that i can drive with smooth shifting for at least 20 mins. -After that shifting becomes gradually more harder, until i can barely shift gears. I got stuck in the middle of intersection (2 separate times) cause i could not switch to 1:st gear, i sweared and pumped clutch for like 10 t…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Another timing/tuning question for you guys/gals: I have a 72 240z with a completely stock engine setup, SUs, points ignition, etc. I rebuilt the SUs with the guidance of the Ztherapy video, and tuned it with the FSM I have. I also checked the gap of the ignition, installed new plugs and points. The car runs fantastic at idle, it is smooth and level. I've got it set at 800-900 rpm there. The car is good if you punch it and accelerate up to 3000 rpm. I can easily get it to squeal the tires if I wanted. It drives great between 0-60 mph. However, once I get it to 3-3200 rpm in neutral or under load the car will no longer accelerate and start to stumble and pop. Once I dece…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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I have read all the posts I can find on this site, and the manual for this answer. Some are close, but maybe not exactly my problem. My newly acquired 78 280Z has a problem where at around 3000 rpms, the tach starts to jump wildly. At the same time, I detect that the engine is either missing or starving of gas. Voltmeter does not change. This problem has only just started to show itself recently. It starts up great, and idles smoothly, so I don't see this happening at all driving ranges either. Slower speeds I have not seen it yet. 1 more observation, the rotor seems to have some play in it when I checked the cap and rotor. Like I can wiggle it maybe an 8th of an inch or…
Last reply by txvepr, -
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I am doing an auto to manual tranny swap on a 260. I am looking for details on the bracket where the hard and soft lines meet for the clutch slave cylinder. I dug through microfice and got the OEM parts for the slave cyl clutch line (see attachments). And, routed a hard line for the clutch based on pics I found. But, I have not been able to find details of the bracket where the hard and soft lines for the clutch are secured. Does anyone have a pic or a link to a pic that shows the bracket on the subframe? I have an idea of what might work. But, I'd like to see the OEM bracket. Maybe I can save a few hours of work instead of reinventing the 40 yr old proverbial wheel.
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
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Ok guys, I'm afraid this officially falls into the "stupid question" category, but can someone please clarify the correct oil fill for a manual trans ('73, B-type)? I've searched this site (via Google for better results) and consulted my FSM but I swear it has a typo or something: it says "1.6L; 2-3/8 US pt; 2-3/4 Imp pt" First of all, 1.6L does not equal 2-3/8 US pt, it's 3-3/8. And although it is close to 2-3/4 Imp pt, that's not quite right either. Second, "liter" isn't spelled out like in the differential section, it has a funny-looking script L instead. Does this mean some unit other than liters? I just want to know whether 1.6L or 2-3/8 pt is correct. I'm using th…
Last reply by bacarl, -
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I have a 1971 240z and unfortunately recently discovered it has little to no compression in cylinder 6. I live in a remote area of Georgia and there are not any Datsun spec nearby. So instead of rebuilding my engine I am thinking of buying a rebuilt motor. I have seen a few places on the internet and am wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I have spoke with Datsunpartsllc, Rebello and a few others. I'm sure I want to change to 2.8 liter block and maybe a performance cam. I don't want a racing engine but something with good power and reliability.My current engine is pretty stock except for headers,an electric fuel pump and smog equip removed. I would eventually like to…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hello all , hoping for a little help from those who have installed Oem bushings . I removed all the old and now have the bushing pressed in at work one one side , but what do I do about pressing the lip over on the backside of the bar like it was from the factory . Any tips from those who have done it . Thanks Chris
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
- 7 replies
- 1.3k views
So I have the opportunity to pick up a 5spd transmission fairly cheaply (~$100) but the output shaft housing appears to be slightly crushed. Is it worth my time (and $$) to purchase this with intentions of rebuilding it & putting it into my '72 240z? My concern is if the piece is available, and what my odds are of actually having a functioning (and non-leaking) transmission. Does anyone have this piece & willing to sell it?
Last reply by Zed Head,
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