Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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I'm going to work on getting the Z running again this weekend, but because the car sat for a year, I think I should probably pull the plugs and try to rotate the engine by hand. This will be a new experience for me. The crank pulley bolt is 27mm (I know that 1 1/16th, thin walled will work). What size is the oil pan drain bolt? I don't have a lot of my old notes anymore - I think it was 22mm? Think I could get by with the longest 27mm wrench I could find for turning over the engine? I'd prefer not to have to loosen or remove anything to get at the bolt.
Last reply by Virto, -
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Hello! Back in the day, I had a 1970 Datsun Fairlady Z. Great car, now a memory, but I've got the original engine and I'm not sure what to do with it. I pulled it out to do modifications and put in an L28 and get smog'd and some speed. Now, I hate to waste the opportunity for someone that might want an original engine (in an original condition), for their show car. Any suggestions from the community? Thanks!
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Take a look at the attached picture. Piston number 5 & 6 deteriorated down to the compression ring. There should be debris through out the entire motor. It is an N42 block with an N47 heads. My plans are to bore, stroke and add turbo. Should I spend time trying to determine if this block is salvageable or trash it and start looking for another motor? I have a turbo intake. Thank you for your thoughts and opinions Robert
Last reply by madkaw, -
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i been looking at a r180 with the 3.9 ratio from a 720 truck 4x4 . will it direct bolt in to my70 240z? or do i need new shafts . this one has bolt flanges. i am going with l28 and want to make the best of it. i am going with the 4 speed for now although i have 5speed from a 83 zx . but from what i read i should not use it.? any ideas would be helpful. thanks dan
Last reply by malibud, -
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Hi guys/gals. I hope to find the time in the near future to post a full write up but for now I wanted to share some of the progress on my engine bay. I cant believe how nice this is starting to look! Matt 5/71 Build
Last reply by gnosez, -
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My '72 240z has a 5spd from a '81 280zx. I just recently replaced the clutch master with one for a 240z as well as a clutch slave for a 240z since the one on the car had the threaded adjustable push rod like one for a 240z. I also swapped the longer push rod from the old master cylinder to the new one. After several bleed and adjustments I am at a point that it goes in to gear fine except for reverse. The threaded rod on the master cylinder is maxed out. My question is, should I get a clutch slave for a '81 280zx? Since my fork has a hole in it for the threaded rod to go through I suspect the answer is no but wanted to post the question here. Another issue which I d…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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I recently purchased a factory 1971 Nissan Service manual. I was surprised that there was no section on rebuilding the automatic transmission. I have one 240z that is getting redone with the factory automatic transmission. I was trying to find the info on how to rebuild the tranny. Was there a supplemental service manual or possibly another vehicle that had the same tranny and would have the info for the rebuild work. Thanks, Charles
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Just ordered a new driveshaft from Driveshaft Replacement of Texas for my '78 coupe. When I restored my Z, I replaced all the mounts on the engine, tranny and diff, but the driveshaft was wonky and is now bumpin and thumpin. Although my diff mount is near new I am thinking that my next upgrade will be a Technoversions Diff Mount - (BUT their website is down so if you have a contact #, I would be much obliged). Driveshaft Replacement of Texas is charging $279, the driveshafts are built to order using new parts, replaceable u-joints and is speed balanced. The price also includes shipping. I will do a follow-up post with comments on quality of workmanship, fitment, etc. …
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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Please see the attached picture. Is the item I circled in red the vacuumcock? I'm trying to find were the hose coming out of the top is supposed to connect too (identified with the red arrow) I'm looking at the AC FSM for a 1974 260z, mine is a 1975 280z. I'm thinking it could also be a check valve on page AC-34. Kind regards, Robert
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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I've been asked by many members and non members about my ignition set-up and after writing the info so many times, I figure it would'nt hurt to post the needed info here at CZCC. And now you can send this thread link to others who may be looking for the same info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I typically put a lot of praise on the Unilite, versus the worn bearings and parts of the stock distributor. Changing the set-up from points to infra-red is always a great idea but it's like putting a New head on an Old block, the head can't perform optimumly because the pistons and rings are worn. The optical pick-ups of the Unitlite and the Pertronix are are basi…
Last reply by Jonu, -
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I own a 1971 240z and this past winter I swapped out the trans that was in it (datsun b 210) with the original z trans. The PO told me the original had been overhauled and he never got around to putting it back in. To make a really long and agonizing story short, the z trans was no good and I ended up putting the b 210 back in. But while I had the trans out I decided to replace the clutch disc and the throw out bearing. Easy job. But now when I drive the car, I get a wicked burning smell like I'm smoking the clutch. My guess: old flywheel and new disc aren't happy together. My question: should i just ride out the rough honeymoon and eventually they will have a happy marr…
Last reply by gg30, -
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Good evening everyone, I was trying to install the above mentioned U-Joints in my half shafts, but they seem to be a hair long I was only able to get the retaining clip in on one side. Has anyone had a similar problem, any ideas, or do I just need to start over with a different part number or brand. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Craig
Last reply by ZWolfe,
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