Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I've got a leak that on the hydraulic hose mating to my clutch slave cylinder. It appears to be metal on metal. Should there be a gasket of some sorts? Seem obvious, but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something else. Thanks.
Last reply by 78sid, -
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Anyone know a good transmission shop in Houston Texas at can work on the old five speeds for Z.
Last reply by moonpup, -
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Started a discussion over on Stanley's thread (link below) about bypassing the heater core and its effect on cooling. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/49100-dump-heater-keep-fan.html#post428554 Didn't want to muddy up his thread so I've posted a couple of pictures I took to show what I was talking about over there. The first shows the large passage at the back of the head which should flow a lot of the coolant up through the block and through the head from back to front. The heater core supply hose fitting has been removed and is lying on the head. The second shows my finger in the big passage and visible in the heater core supply passage. That's what…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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ok i just picked upa f54block with p 79 head bore .30over . it all has been to the machine shop but has not been put together. pistons are in valves and guides are in though. should i stick with the head since it has been fixed and ready to go even though i am looking at 8.3:1 compression. i need a cam since the cam was lost. Any ideas on the cam ?. i have searched around but most are using a n42 or p90 head with this block. thanks dan
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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My '72 Z has an L28 engine and I recently swapped out the 4-speed for a late ('81-'83 close ratio) 5-speed. Everything went back together and works fine. When adjusting the clutch recently I noticed I don't have a return spring connecting the slave cylinder to the clutch fork. My friend's '71 4-speed has a spring that is about 3" in length. I measured the distance my spring would have to be and it is about 5" and there are places on the slave cylinder and clutch fork for the spring to connect. I know some slave cylinders have this spring internal with the piston. Short of taking the slave cylinder apart, is there a way to tell if I need to go get a return spring? I…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I have a 76 280 4 speed. was working fine when i parked it last summer. the other day went to start it clutch peddle went all the way to the floor nothing there. checked the fluid it was low so i added some no luck. last night tried to bleed it when i opened up the bleeder nothing came out even when my son pumped it. so was thiking master is shot .but after reading some on here and looking at the slave my question is the slave and fork. should the slave piston be out that is how it is was thinking it should be in then when you push on the peddle it should come out.
Last reply by mgood, -
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Long story short, my engine was making an intermittent ticking, opened it up to make sure a valve hadnt gone lose form an adjustment I did a bit back and realized my #5 valve spring was completely extended, as in, did not stop pressing against the rocker arm even when the rocker arm was completely "lose" so I brought the exhaust valve next to it all the way down then counted the turns to get it adjusted to the right level for the other one that I could not adjust. Adjusted the other one to that point, then set the good one to its correct position and threw it back together. From my understanding of how the valves work, the only way that would happen with the spring is if …
Last reply by Xenn, -
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Finally starting the LS1 swap guys. I'm removing the triple webers and engine and will be getting rid of those to help fund the rest of the project. You have to appreciate how easy it is to drop one of these engines compared to a newer car. The car and engine I am starting with has about 90k on it, so I'm a little sad to be pulling it apart, but I plan to completely refinish the whole thing, so I'm dropping the whole drivetrain and getting it up an a rotisserie to start body work. Wish me luck. Phase 1: Remove triple Webers and intake. DONE Phase 2: Remove exhaust. DONE Phase 3: Remove transmission Phase 4: Remove engine (lift point suggestions, anyone?) Phase…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I just finished replacing all the bearings and inspecting all the synchros in my 1982-83 five speed. I assembled it all in the vise, but without the case yet. The case is off so I can test it all. It shifts though the gears nicely on the bench, and all is smooth...except when I engage reverse. When I engage reverse, it is difficult to spin the input or output shafts by hand, there is quite a bit of drag. It spins with a wrench on the splines but it feels like there is a lot of drag. Possibly the 5th gear synchro dragging?? When in reverse, if I force the reverse shift rod 1/16" forward or backwards against the detent, the trans frees up perfectly. It's almost as…
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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Anyone heard of any new sources for L series lash pads.......... .150's, .160's, .170's and .180's ? Just checking on possible new suppliers.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Hi Folks, I cleaned my spark plugs and noticed all were ok except No.1 that was wet with oil. Engine has decent compression and runs smooth as silk. Car has been sitting for about six months. Could it be I have excess oil that has creeped into the cylinders due to a bad valve stem seal? If I rev it at idle it will smoke at 3000RPM and then clear up. I'm guessing I should drive it for awhile....any suggestions?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Anyone use these? Experience? Problems?
Last reply by Lazeum,
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65Snake
