Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I have been putting a list together of gearbox bearings I could need (for FS5C71B). It looks like the FS5W71B, FS5C71B and FS5C71A and the F4W71B all share nearly all the same Nissan part numbers give or take (e.g. 4 speed no bearings on overdrive). My question, or point me in the direction of a previous post, is what are the part numbers for the bearing in there generic form, eg. Timken 6205? There are a few gearbox rebuild threads, but I haven't seen any bearing info. Thanks Ian
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
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Today's little task is to choose a 5 speed to add to my latest 510 project. Decided on one that is a bit of an un-known. It "looks" like the 82-83 ZX close ratio trans case, long ears, one exhaust hanger, reverse lock out blah blah blah EXCEPT it has a front case that has the rotated clocking for an L motor that would be mounted vertically rather than at our 12 degrees CW slant. Big deal, I've been hoarding 4 speed bell housings for various swaps, so I'll just go get one of those. Quickly it reminded me that while it bolts right on, the 4 speed housing reverse switch is in different spot than on the 5 speed housing. Well the only difference is that it is pretty …
Last reply by zKars, -
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Good evening, trying to install this XTD clutch. 6 of 9 bolts line up. Is this normal for after market pressure plates or is this a part that needs all 9 bolts. I’ve tried researching the part number and haven’t found anything relating to it or if it is for Datsun Zs.
Last reply by MM569457, -
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I have two (2) styles of Accelerator / Gas Pedals Does any know the model/production year of these? Thanks, Keith
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Does anyone have a comparison photo of these two type oil pans? Thanks, Keith
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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Hey guys, I'm planning on getting started on my rod bearing replacement in a couple days here, and I wanted to see if anyone has done it by dropping the subframe and replacing them with the engine still in the car, and if they would recommend that vs. pulling the whole engine. Ive never pulled an engine before or done actual engine work, so this is all new to me. Thanks!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So I just got my L28 block back and the 2 things I need are an oil gallery screen that apparently disintegrated, and oversize pistons because it was bored .50mm over. I found a set of pistons that are .020" oversize, and I just wanted to do a sanity check... .5mm equates to 0.01968504 in, so I feel safe buying these. Does anyone know of any gotchas I should be worried about?
Last reply by Patcon, -
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The two manifolds on the L24 engine are shown in the parts diagram to be secured with studs at all seventeen locations. However, the engine in my 70 Z uses bolts for the top row (six locations). A spare L24 engine (from a 72 Z that I had as my daily driver back in the 1970's) also used bolts for the top row. I'm 90% certain that the head and manifolds on that car had never been removed for service (I was the 2nd owner and bought it in 1976 with only ~ 40,000 miles on the odometer). The bolts used on both my engines show similar markings on the bolt heads. Comments or insights, anyone?
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
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I reinstalled my front engine cover while the engine was out of the car. I used the gaskets that came in an L24 gasket set. Now that the engine is in the car, of course I have a leaks at the top of the cover where it meets the head. I don't know what I did wrong, so I don't know what to do different this time around. Any tips, tricks, or insights would be appreciated. Are gaskets preferred to RTV? Man, I hate doing things twice!
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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New day, new saga. I put in a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. The master cylinder and slave cylinder are also new. When I put the car into gear, with engine not running, and depress the clutch, I cannot roll the car. Apparently, the clutch is not disengaging. I adjusted the slave cylinder quite a bit also. What am I missing? Attached is a video of the slave cylinder in action. IMG_1719.mov
Last reply by adivin, -
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What is the recommended rear diff oil wt for warmer climates? the 75W used in most cars here in CA seems to be more towards colder side of the spectrum based on manual. Anyone here in CA using 85W?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Greeting folks, I believe my 5-speed transmission is version FS5W71B as it has 2 prongs for the exhaust mounts. I usually do a 40 miles drive on the weekend. Yesterday, when I shift into 2nd gear, I felt hard "jolt" as if i ran over the cow or hit a big rock under the oil pant. I can definitely felt that something is wrong with the transmission. I'm not sure if I describe what I felt correctly ... normally, if the clutch pedal is not depressed, the transmission connects to the flywheel directly, you felt/and hear the gentle sound like when you biking the bike down hill without you pedal-ling it, the sound from the gear make a small, pleasant sound…
Last reply by 240zadmire,
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