Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Just a quick question. I need head bolt torque specs and exhaust and intake manifold torque.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I just completed a solo clutch change for the first time and thought I'd document some of my lessons learned / tricks I picked up from my experience and various threads on this site: Transmission Jack - 450 Lb. Capacity - transmission jack really made the job easier - I had to bend the strap mounting plates on the left side (far side in above pic) to clear my headers - in my case, dropping the exhaust was a necessity to give me the required clearance to remove the transmission - I pulled the fuel filter from its mount so that the fuel rubber fuel hose was not under stress - I disconnected the upper radiator hose and removed the fan to allow the engine to rotate b…
Last reply by Reverend, -
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Nissan's FSM and Haynes recommends Intake .010", Exhaust .012" hot for an L28. My cam is cut to Crane mild street specs and recommends Intake .006", Exhaust .008" hot. That seems like a big difference, is it? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by doradox, -
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Finally got around to doing the valve work I've been putting off. They felt sloppy when I was driving, and oil leaked out of the cover in a few areas (one of the holes was stripped so the bolt wouldn't get tight, probably the culprit).. Anyway, pulled off the cover and spent a good while pulling off the gunky cork gasket, and quickly found that the nut who last messed with these severely over-torqued the bolts (by like 100 lbs) which made the job much harder. They were indeed sloppy, much too tight in fact, as too be expected. Much longer and I probably would've burned them. Did some work on the threading so the bolt would tighten. Then, the new gasket turned out to be a…
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
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Well I am happy to report that after several months of my car being on jack stands I got to get her going and go for a very spirited drive. Well that was so lovely. I forgot how much I love that L28 and how good it feels up top. It also reminded me of several things that I wanted to do that I wrote down during my rally. First was my brakes, and the reason that I had the car up on jack stands. The cars new calipers and wheel cylinders are working fabulously, and I even took the time to put in some ATE super blue and bleed the master cylinder for kicks. I call that a victory. Car stops well enough for now. Pads are bedding in and things feel better each time I stop. Qu…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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anyone have or have an idea where i can get a striking rod for a 1979-ish 280zx or similar transmssion?
Last reply by fastd, -
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okay - hopefully an easy question for a Saturday. Just got my 260z and am going to change the oil today. Not sure how long the current oil has been in there. Looks ok and full but who knows. What type/brand do you all recommend? Will be light weekend driving in decent weather. Currently COLD here in the midwest Will change again in the late Spring. Thanks all!
Last reply by Zu Zu, -
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I posted this in the need help forum but It didn't show up in new threads. Installing new crankshaft side seals. It's a Nissan part. Do the two lips face the block or the crankshaft. This part is a one piece design with the "nail" down the middle of the rubber seal. I'm just insuring that I have the right orientation. Thanks
Last reply by WW2Winger, -
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Is it possible to repair/replace the Spring Return(#24) and Spring Reverse Check (#25) while the transmission is still attached to the engine & its mounted in the car? My problem is that there is no spring rebound when I pull the shifter out of 1st/2nd (does not return to the center) and its very very difficult to move the shifter to the right to get it into reverse. Once Its in reverse I can move it back & forth freely until I let the car sit for a while. I'm thinking these two springs are all gummed up or something. Has anyone had any experience with this? If I need to pull the transmission & pull it appart, I'm probably just going to find a 5spd to pu…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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ive seen a lot of posts regarding the clutch upgrade from the 240z clutch to a 280zx clutch. for me it was a little confusing and i think that the existing clutch had some mismatched parts. i am posting this because i want to let others know its not very difficult for those with little to no experience. i was able to get it to work - the parts i put in (collar, throw out, pressure plate) added to 92-94 mm. the parts i took out added up to 100+mm. i added about 3/8-1/2 inch to my slave pushrod and everything happen to work.
Last reply by olzed, -
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I recently swapped in a R200 into my 240z and to my surprise it was very smooth and quiet. I did notice the pinion seal leaking quite badly so I decided to replace it. I searched and read multiple posts regarding the pinion nut torque because I was nervous about the bearing preload. I decided to follow the fsm and torque it to 140ft/lbs. Before I took the nut off I marked the nut and the pinion shaft so I can use that as reference when I re-install the nut. I torqued the nut to 140ft/lbs and noticed that the mark i put on the nut was about a 1/4 turn past the mark on the pinion shaft (1/4 turn tighter than it was originally). Now the issue I have is that I'm getting a hum…
Last reply by AlexS13, -
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I'm getting ready to bolt up my manifolds on the turbo motor soon. All of my washers are old and I wasn't wanting to know if they are supposed to be concave where the nut is applied, or are they bent from use?
Last reply by madkaw,
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