Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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What works: - Idles smooth - If gradually accelerating, the engine runs smooth throughout the entire power-band with no issues Problem: - During idle, if pressing gas pedal all the way down suddenly, it will rev up to about 3500rpm, backfires and surges, and the rpm will drop to about 2500rpm and rev back up at 3500rpm and keep repeating as long as it's at WOT. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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I've been searching and got a little frustrated so I'm going to ask directly. I am still a little new to S-30 ownership -sorry. I am planning to rebuild my differential. The bearings are very noisy and I have it out so now's a good time. I thought that it was an R-180 but I have confirmed that it is an R-200. Would you expect to see that on a '76 280 with a 4spd?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hi guys.....just wonder if the above is possible. I'm trying to save myself some time and have a running car whilst building another motor on the side. I've managed to damage a part of the valve stem retainer clip and just want to replace the top valve spring cap and the retainer clip. Any idea of there is a way of being able to do this whilst the cam is still on the head and the head is still on the block? Thanks.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Over my winter break I was planning on redoing the engine bay in my 240z. To me this included: 1. Repainting the firewall and inner fender wells 2. New rubber pieces all around 3. New exhaust manifold gasket 4. Repaint the engine block 5. Pull of the entire carb assembly and clean it up 6. Send of the parts needed to be zinc plated (not necessary in this order) The engine bay as of now is very clean and original. No rust worries and the car runs great with the SUs on it. I'm not planning on pulling the engine, rather pull everything off of it and do a light and period correct restoration. The engine has been tuned up and adjusted, so I didn't want to go very d…
Last reply by Hank240, -
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Is it possible to remove the oil pan on a 280Z without removing the engine. I seem to have a slight leak and want to replace the gasket. Thanks. Riq
Last reply by MotoManMike, -
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Hi, I just got Xenon Timing Light to measure ignition timing. When I look at pulley timing mark, I can't tell which side is zero since it's different from 280z timing Is top one the zero or the bottom one in the picture? When I look at FSM for '72 240z said "The top dead center is located extreme left as viewed from inspectors side." Thanks for the help, tamo3
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
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What clutch would you recommend? Centerforce, ClutchMaster, ACT, ???? I am leaning toward the Centerforce Stage 1. I want it to grip more than stock, but not be tough to drive. It will be used solely on the street, but it does have a somewhat built motor....
Last reply by 73 240Z Man, -
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Developed a exhaust leak, of course when miles away from home. Drove a few short trips that way, before deciding it was time to fix it. Took the intake & exhaust off today, and there is evidence on the head of an exhaust leak on #6. Funny, it exactly matches a hairline crack in the same place on the manifold... None of the bolts seemed under/over tightend, so that's not what did it. My buddy has a scope, and I'm going to try to check condition of the valve. I'm really hoping it's not burned. If so, the head has to come off too. I have a spare manifold and bought gaskets, but need to check the manifold for flatness. If everything's OK, I'll put her back…
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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Hi Everyone... I've been trying to figure out what to do with the current motor in my Z.. I currently have the original stock motor, hooked up to a newer 5sp connected to the original stock differential.. The choices that I've narrowed my list down to are... A) Rebuild the stock 2.4L motor.. Swap in a lightly messaged 2.8L motor.. C) Build a 3.1 Stroker.. The car is my Summer week-end driver... No auto-crossing, or track racing.. Just a summer night, week-end cruiser.. I'm looking for some more pep, torque and power.. I kinda ruled out the 2.4 rebuild..Since I'm going on the bigger is better adage.. That leaves me with either a 2.8L swap, or the 3.1 build.. I'd l…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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now before yall say anything, i'll tell you that i didn't think to search the forums for reviews of this guy before i bought from him. hindsight is 20/20, but i may not be screwed yet. the head just got here today. it's an N42, and by sight, it looks really good. there are one or two chinks here and there; one on the edge of a lobe, another on the edge of one of the exhaust ports. but overall, it looks good. it's got the double springs. my question is this: who has bought a head from this guy, and if you had problems with it, what were they? i'm going to have it checked out by the shop i go to, and i'd like to have something to tell them to look for.
Last reply by Arne, -
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I got the 71 240z with a five speed upgrade...when i hit about 65mph in 5th gear iam getting this vibration thats deep and loud...so far we did,,new u joint and rebalanced the driveshaft...new halfshaft u joints..wheel bearings were done last year by PO...Has anyone seen this before? whats next is the rear...Any ideas/HELP....thank you
Last reply by ZohanIsBack, -
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Two feckless turds in a row now have hosed me on back to back P90 cams at Hybrid Z and my patience is wearing thin. My motor build ( http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46890.html ) has been set back 4 weeks from actually enjoying my car because of all of this. A couple guys over at hybrid suggested running an internally oiled "A" cam from a 77-81 N/A motor (Think I got my dates right). I know there are not a lot of turbo folks over here but any help would be great. I could pull my cam out of my old motor, towers and all and let it rip. Doug at Awesome Z said he has some cams too. I don't know:ermm: I do know I have been banged out of nearly $300 in either jun…
Last reply by Ben's Z,
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