Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 10 replies
- 4.6k views
Rebuilding an L28 and that last main cap (the one with the rear main seal) is giving me grief. It's near impossible to tap it in with a mallet and it always ends up moving in its register. I resorted to using old head bolts threaded into the block as guides to get it reasonably straight, but when I finally got it installed it wasn't quite flush with the block and of course, the was crank seized completely. I'm hesitant to remove any material from the cap because of the side oil seals. Any ideas? Thanks.
Last reply by Hype, -
-
- 16 replies
- 5.4k views
My Z's engine has been recently rebuilt and after the break in oil was replaced, synthetic oil was chosen. My question: Under average use, how often should I change the synthetic oil? Thanks
Last reply by ta240, -
- 2 replies
- 3.6k views
I have searched the threads on this subject but still have two questions. The exhaust manifold is from a 240Z. Are the six holes in the exhaust manifold for the smog rail able to be plugged by a 1/4 inch BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) plugs? Should the plug material be steel or brass and is there an advantage to using a regular hex head over an internal hex head (allen wrench to remove it)? McMaster-Carr has many choices and these things are not cheap! Thanks so much, Gary
Last reply by ggunder, -
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
Is 145-150 psi on a compression test gauge normal for an engine with 119,xxx miles on it?
Last reply by 71Nissan240Z, -
- 7 replies
- 2.6k views
I bought a used (15,000 Km) performance L28 a while back and just got the cam specification card. I was told it was a "hot" cam, can you guys confirm that? It is not a Crane cam but a Nissan one that was reground to Crane specs by a good shop. Thanks
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 19 replies
- 9.7k views
It appears that the supply of reasonably-priced rebuilt 240 distributors has dried-up (lots of people advertise the < $100 Cardone rebuilt ones but, as far as I have been able to determine, they really aren't in stock). So I am wondering if there is such a thing as a distributor rebuild kit? The usual suspects don't seem to offer one. Also, I went looking through the forums to see if anyone had ever documented a distributor refurbishment but I didn't find any. Anyone have any easy-to-follow instructions? Thanks!
Last reply by jharvat, -
- 277 replies
- 111.4k views
My great rally adventure in my Z would not be complete without a healthy dose of drivable HP. When I decided to rebuild my engine, I had originally planned on doing it myself. I have build up many engines, but none of the 'L' variety. I had vast experience with V8's, but the L was a bit different. And there were some finesse items I had read about in all the rebuild books. I called around and not many people had experience near me in doing high quality L series head work and I just did not want to trust my original L24 to anybody. So I took this opportunity to call around and find out who was who when it came to rebuilding L series engines. I started with Rebello …
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 5 replies
- 2.3k views
I pulled the transmission and engine out almost 2 months ago now and I can't remember which mount was on the car holding the 5 spd tranny. The second mount was in a box of extra parts that came with car. Which one is right? Thanks,
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 16 replies
- 1.7k views
This is a continuation of my other thread, but the problem the OP was about has been resolved, I figured it was time to start fresh. Since the weather has gotten cold, my problem has gotten worse, as they usually do. Basically, the issue is that my cold starts are real rough, pumping the gas like crazy and cranking. Once it starts, it backfires. While its cold, it usually kills the engine but a few starts gets it to a healthier idle. Eventually it gets to where its idling decent, so I get the car moving. It does okay from here on - but it backfires and stalls for several minutes, which is scary as hell in traffic. Once it warms up the backfiring stops, but not all is wel…
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
- 9 replies
- 3.3k views
I need my N42 head serviced but there are no reputable machine shops in my immediate area. Can anyone recommend a machine shop with datsun experience in the northern California or bay area?
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
- 0 replies
- 1.7k views
I finally got a chance to install the Captain Obvious cam oiler kit. I bought the kit from Bruce in stead of shipping him my bar and letting him do the work to limit my down time. So as promised here is the write-up. I started by cranking the motor over with the stock bar in place and noting the oil flow, just to make sure the modified bar is as good as the stock stuff after the modification is completed. [] Here is the stock oiler as she sat, you can see its bent and not properly aligned to the cam. It did however spray oil on the cam, and provide good lubrication. After removing the bar I did a valve adjustment, it was faster and easier to do the adjustments with …
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
Not only is this my first post in this forum, this is will also my first Datsun, and also my first car! It has a well documented 83k, starts right up, drives great, and has rust on the passenger side wheel arch and a bit on the driver door sill. It hasnt been driven much in the past few years and I would like to get it up to daily driver status. Ill have to travel at least 15 miles a day or 28 miles at most (round trip). What should I be checking/replacing to ensure reliability and healthy driving? Are there specific parts that commonly fail on these cars, or should I just bring it to Meineke to have it inspected? Cant wait to pick it up tomorrow!
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Wilbur
