Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 14 replies
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Hey Guys! I know there are some differing opinions on engine mods and swaps, so I wanted to make a thread and possibly a poll on the subject. -At what point would you say a Z is no longer a Z - internally?.. Is it no longer a 240z if you put a Chevy 350 in it? -What engines do you find work best in your Z's? Basically that sort of stuff... I'll start. Currently, my 240 has its original engine, is at nearly 110k miles and still runs pretty good. I feel like it isn't a 240z at heart with another engine, however I would not be opposed to replacing it with an LS1 engine or something of the likes one day, because I'm less attached to the numbers themselves than the car itself…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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- 6 replies
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Following up on two threads from the past few months: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46932.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46662.html Quick Recap: Transmission grinds when I start to put it in gear. I've replaced: - Replaced Clutch Master Cylinder - Replaced Clutch Slave Cylinder - Replaced Entire Clutch Kit - Bled System Ensured proper travel at the Slave Cylinder. Ensured the Master Clinder is fully extended. If I put it in gear and start it (with a push) I can go around the block in gear, just can't shift (obviously). So I'm totally out of ideas. I can't imagine why else the clutch wouldn't engage. The only saving grace is that I'm swapping…
Last reply by ksbeta, -
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I realize that this is one of those posts that is probably going to generate more questions than answers. I have an S30 with a 5-speed transmission. What I am trying to determine is the distance that the Clutch fork should move when the clutch is pushed in. I don't have any info on the tranny other than from the pictures that I am attaching here. The problem that I am having is that the clutch is not disengaging the transmission. I measure the throw on the fork and it only moves 11mm, which looks to be only about have the distance that it could travel. I understand that there are numbers on the top of the bell housing that would tell me the exact tranny model, bu…
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Well I finally got lucky and got a good cylinder head back from the shop with a new valve job. The cam checked out to be ok. I did not have them resurface the rockers arms, is this a big deal?:stupid: I have the "How to Rebuild your OHC Datsun Engine" and plan on freshening up on the cylinder head section this evening. The shop had to take 15 thousandths off the head, which I believe puts you right on the edge of needing shims, but they felt it may have been milled before, they don't know how much. How should I go about ordering cam tower shims? Any and all advice would be great.
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Looking for a good reasonably priced shop in the Atlanta area to overhaul my 72 z engine.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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I'm having troubles with initial start-ups. This is on a stock 76 FI Z. I crank it for ~ 5 secs and it doesn't fire. After doing this 2 or 3 times, it fires, but sputters and even backfires a little. Then by about the 5th or 6th try, I can keep it going and after a couple of minutes it runs great - very responsive, lots of power, smooth idle, no smoke from the tail pipe, etc. Its' just that initial start-up I'm having trouble with. Over the Summer I did put quite a few new parts in which did help so that as I mentioned, after initial start-up it runs great; new plugs/wires, distribitor cap/rotor. ignition coil, fuel injectors, fuel filter, and the timimg is on, the AFM ch…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Howdy all. I've a cam 300/300 duration valve lift 0.453" inlet valve lift 0.451 exhaust Timing inlet open 43btdc closes 77abdc exhaust open 77 bbdc closes 43 atdc Full lift 107 deg atdc inlet btdc exhaust Am I right in thinking that the lift is a little low? Reading the specs it reads like it should be a nice 4-7000rpm grid, or have I missed something!? Its going in a 2.4(+1mm) 40mm carbs, proper exhaust, modded e88 with large valves and skimmed etc.
Last reply by Jason240z, -
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I have a L28 motor with N42 head in my 260z, it was like that when I bought the car. A friend of mine had a header literally lying around his shop and gave it to me. Its got round ports and appears to be ceramic coated so score. The main goal is to be able to reduce under hood temps which I figure I can do by wrapping these headers, I have done this on dirt bikes and v8's with excellent results. My N42 head has square exhaust ports, this is a round header.. 1. Will this mount properly with standard gaskets? 2. Obviously there will be some restriction going from the square hole to the round one, but will it still perform better than the stock manifold? 3. I plan on b…
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
- 15 replies
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So I finally got time to work on the car. I had not been driving it as it was getting progressively harder and harder to start when cold. Cap ,rotor, wires , and plugs are all in good shape. I decided to adjust the valve clearance and wow am I glad I did! The valves were all tight, only one had any play with the cam lobe straight up. Adjusted intakes to.20 mm and exhaust to .25mm. Put her all back together and she fired up straight away! Unbelievable in my book especially as # 3 and 4 are not firing! I verified there is good spark at the wire, Is it possible I screwed up the adjustment so bad on those two that they won't even fire? I'm pretty sure I didn't, but I can't t…
Last reply by northernz, -
- 21 replies
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Ok I replaced the master and slave to the clutch but its still hard to shift into first and second and reverse is stilll grinding I need help
Last reply by silvey19k, -
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I have no idea what the problem is, and im stumped. I have a 1976 280z, carburated with a holley carb. my engine bay The cars my DD. I replaced the oil pump maybe 500 miles ago. The timing was off, but I followed the FSM and set it TDC, and put the dist. to 11:25. After that, it fired right up and drove GREAT for a couple weeks. Then the seal on my water pump blew and i unloaded all my antifreeze on the highway and had to get towed 25 miles back to my home to fix it. The car drove great for about 3 days. I parked it last night, after driving normally, and this morning when I went to start it, it started for about 2 seconds, and died (which is always does when it's col…
Last reply by austinnelson117, -
- 7 replies
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One of the side seals in my R180 diff are leaking. I've never replaced the side seal on a 180. I've replaced it on an R200 but not the 180. I assume you remove the bolt in the center of the flange and simply pull it out, but I don't like trial and error. The factory manual is not very helpful. Anyone help me with this? Thanks. Guy
Last reply by Diseazd,
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