Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hi Guys, so i know this has been discussed a gazillion times. I have been running DRIVEN 10W-40 Conventional and so far so good. It has great wear protection/ZDDP. Just wondering how many are running 20W-50? Temp in CA in summer gets over 80F routinely and I was thinking to upgrade to the below? what do you guys think? https://drivenracingoil.com/i-30497797-gp-1-20w-50-synthetic-blend-high-performance-oil.html
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hi guys, Has anyone tried this part? or any other alternative? I think there is a similar GM valve as well which I can share later (cannot find it at the moment...) https://www.ebay.com/itm/263537911654
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
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Good day, for some time I am trying to understand a transmission noise that is bothering me. As you can hear in the video the gearknob is transmitting some buzzing noise which can be altered by holding the hand in front of the knob to act like a kind of sound box. You can best hear it toward the end of the video. I read about the buzzing problem related to worn gearstick bushing and ordered a new set of oem bushings, cup and pin. After the change the noise persisted I also changed the old after market wood knob to an oem rubber one. Also no change. Next step was to check for wear marks on the stick (read it in some other post). I found some small o…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hi all, This weekend I finally got around to tracking down that last vacuum leak -- in the pneumatics of the HVAC control apparatus. (I had previously identified a leak through the vacuum line leading through the firewall from the vacuum solenoids or "magnet valves" -- righthand/passenger side of hood compartment.) The larger source of the leak was immediately apparent. In their infinite wisdom, Nissan put a splice in the vacuum line in the righthand/passenger dash area. It's shown in the factory service manual diagrams. It seems like that's just more to go wrong, but I'm sure there was an assembly line rationale behind the splice. In my own case, I had three splices…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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Hello mates I'm sure this has been discussed but my searching abilities are kind of useless today - its been a long weekend - but has anyone used the Z car depot electric fan shroud and fans for a 280z? Do you like it or do you prefer running other fans/fan combos? Thank you all Jan
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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Today, I had to reset my timing after removing the distributor yesterday to test of my ignition unit. While at it I tested my engine intake vacuum which was perfect so no leaks. Wanted to confirm that before putting in my rebuild brake booster. I also replaced my oil pressure sending unit after driving it last week. Pressure seemed low sometimes. I replaced it because I thought maybe it was defective (was a new unit). The replacement is made by Beck Arnley. I still feel pressure is lower that I think is right but maybe I’m wrong. I have a new oil pump (not turbo version) which I probably should have used. BTW, I opened the oil cap for a peek at idle and I ca…
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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Hello... I've been dealing/troubleshooting a stumble issue at 3500-4000 RPM and above and hoping to get some suggestions for where to go next. Here's a little history on my setup: Original L24 engine bored .30 over Triple Weber DCOE 40 Carbs (currently running 55 idle jets, 135 main jets, and F11 emulsion tubes) Electric fuel pump with regulator set to 5 psi Pertronix Electronic Ignition with Flamethrower Coil (bypassing the ballast resistor) NGK Iridium Plugs (gapped to .40) Vacuum Advance NOT Connected Timing is retarded at the (stock) distributor The issue mainly seems to occur when it's hot outside and the car is warm…
Last reply by eastcoastz, -
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Hey guys, I have a 1978 Datsun 280z, Currently running an N42 Block with a rebuilt E88 head from a 260z (least desirable from what I hear but was all I could find at the time), I have triple weber dcoe 40s and headers from topendperformance. I also have an MSD ignition 6AL and 280zx Dizzy and a rebuilt 5 speed with the longer gear rations I am also running a felpro 1.2mm head gasket which has 89mm bores (My L28 bores are 86mm). Also have a lightweight flywheel to add to all this. I have had this setup for almost 2 years now and never touched the block in the 5 years I have owned the car. The car also weighs a surprising 2460lbs As of right now my compression is pretty low…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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This Z hasn't been driven in over 10 years. I started recovery by oiling the cylinder walls and cranking by hand. I eventually graduated to actually running it. There was a sporadic 'chirp' noise, which went away quickly. After some A/F tuning, I got a smooth idle, allowing a trial run around the block. But then fuel tank issues added a 2-month delay. Yesterday when I started it, it began well enough, then the 'chirp' noise returned and stayed. I then noticed that the noise occurs even when only cranking - occurring on every second revolution. I might assume this is valve related - perhaps a bent stem or otherwise sticking valve. Vacuum is dead steady, but I …
Last reply by Roberts280Z, -
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Hello, i disassembled my L28 cylinder head yesterday and I was wondering why my rocker arms are not all marked the same. Are these original Nissan rocker arms or were they already replaced by a previous owner? Thank you for your help. JagoBlitz
Last reply by Zed Head, -
cooling help? 1 2
by kully 560- 2 followers
- 15 replies
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I have a cooling question I installed a champion 3 row aluminum radiator with a spal 13" electric fan and a nissan brand 180 degree thermostat. now my fan sensor is a american volt brand that is 200 degree on and 185 off that is installed in the thermostat housing cover. at highway driving my fan runs all the time. around town it will cycle on and off. I do not think this is normal for highway driving at 70 degrees outside. anybody have a thought ? in the old days the water pump would leak when bad the seal. not leaks at all and I run water wetter with premix prestone antifreeze. thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Greetings folks I’m in the process of rebuilding the transmission and has the driveshaft out. The driveshaft’s U-joint are irreplaceable, base on this forum and many other sources online. However, some did suggest it can be done and I also saw some YouTube that people just hammer out the similar U-joint with the stakes in it. I wonder has anyone done this before and did it leave any major burr, marks of the stakes. I also read the alternative U-joint is made by company Rockford part number 430-10 if anyone has done this and has some photos, much appreciated regards
Last reply by siteunseen,
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