Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Bought it plus the $$$ bolt Does not fit. I searched Zcar.com and found one post where a guy had to get it machined to fit. I am thinking of boiling it in a bag on a Coleman stove where the car is. All suggestions welcome.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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P/U a whole engine yesterday from a 77-78 280z, the head is a N47 with steel liners. Is there anyway to remove those liners without destroying the head? From my first look it seems that the valve guide is the only thing holding that sleeve in.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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In best way I mean, reducing chance of smashing stuff/chipping paint and ease of lining up parts. I have engine hoist. 1. Transmission first then motor 2. Motor first then transmission 3. Motor and transmission together (I did this before with a friend but I am thinking it may be challenging for 1 person.)
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I am wondering if it is possible to simply remove the E12-93 module on the side of the distributor and plug a MSD 6AL into the red & green wires to use the magnetic trigger in the distributor.
Last reply by 30 Ounce, -
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I have read seveal posts regarding people replacing their vent lines and not wanting to shell out $50 for the preformed 5/8 vent line with the 180 degree bend in it. I see people have used 15mm or 1/2" steel tubing, bent it, and then inserted it in the line to achieve the bend. I am curious, can aluminum or brass be used instead of steel? I know copper cannot be used due to the reaction it will have with the fuel. Just looking for a softer metal to work with as steel will fight you for every inch.
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
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I have the 4-speed removed from my '72 and was planning on installing my Craigslist find $100 5-speed from a '77 280Z. It is a lot of work, so I decided to have the 5-speed checked out before installation. The shop charged $131 to open it up and inspect it and estimated it would cost $1,500 to rebuild it. As an option they found one for $900 with the old transmission as a core. If I take this option I am into the project $100 + $131 + $900 = $1,131. Any ideas or alternatives? I am located near Sacramento and travel on business weekly to the bay area. Thanks for your input on this. Gary
Last reply by ggunder, -
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I've been reading all the stuff I can find on interchanging 240/280 engine parts. I have a 1976 280Z with a N42 block and N42 head. It has a destroyed rod bearing (#5) which chewed up the crank journal. The top half of the rod bearing is gone and the bottom half is smashed paper thin. The car has an automatic and I wanted a 5-speed so I found a 240z engine and 5 speed, cheap. The 240Z motor is a P30 block and a E88 head. I did a compression check on it and one hole is at 35, the rest are decent. I'm in CA and 1976 is still a smog year so I need to retain the stock EFI, I believe. As I think I have figured out, assuming the 240Z crank, rods and pistons are good, I can put …
Last reply by Ttiger, -
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Hello sorry to create the extra threads on the same subject. For some reason I was not able to edit my post to resize the pictures. I will create this final thread and mainly post video updates along with a few pictures. I will try to post helpful links and information I find along the way here as well. I have been working on getting my Z back on the road. There was some bent valves so I decided to do a rebuild and paint up the engine bay. So far I have prepped the engine bay for paint and I have painted up the block. I am currently saving up to have the head rebuilt at a local machine shop. Also researching to find a good cam for my flat top engine. I plan on go…
Last reply by Hardway, -
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Assembling new clutch kit. I forget how the old bearing was oriented. The new one is a Koyo RCT4075-1S that looks like this: The left picture above is flatter side with writing and the face metal wraps around to make the bearing side The right picture above is the rounder side and its face terminates ~ 2mm from the edge (you can see the gap). Which side faces towards the clutch (front of engine)? (I am stuck as it does not make sense to put ID where it will be chewed up, but the side with the less metal will be weaker...I would guess the left picture's side with the writing goes towards the clutch).
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hello guys, In the past couple of days I've noticed the Z has low oil pressure at start-up when warm. The first time it happened the gauge sat at about a quarter for a good 2-3 minutes before it shot up to the normal oil pressure. Last night I started it and it sat there for a few seconds and then rose. Any ideas on what it could be? I did an oil change yesterday as I was thinking it was an oil problem but nope still has it. On another note, what could cause a squeaking noise when the car first starts when warm? Belts maybe? Can exhaust squeak? Thanks Jan
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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Hello I just got my pistons off. I reviewed the FSM and the how to rebuild datsun engines book but I cant find the part where it talks about the main cap bolt removal sequence. The books warns about warping the head when the bolts are not taken off properly. What about the main cap bolts?? should they come off in a certain order?
Last reply by zKars, -
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Greetings! Well I have been on the hunt for some oem Nissan bolts and haven't had much luck. The engine is a 71 L24 which had a 3spd auto hooked up to it when I bought it, so naturally I shopped around for a manual and ended up with a 5spd from a 280zx. However I have been unable to find the correct Nissan bolts (4 bolts) to mate the transmission to the engine, I went to the dealer but all they have there is software with poorly scanned microfiche and we tried ordering what looked to be the correct part on the sheet but it came back wrong. So if anyone has the Nissan part number that would be great. Also I am assuming that the starter bolts from the starter that came off …
Last reply by J-hop,
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