Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Hello I just picked up an engine stand yesterday and I am going to place the engine on the stand to start the rebuild. Im not sure if it would be wise to send my block out to a machine shop to have the cylinders honed, and deck resurfaced first. Is it a good idea to do?? Ive heard many times that the l28 crank case is legendary in its ruggedness so I dont know if taking the crank case to the machine shop is even necessary. What should I do?? my cylinder walls look pretty clean. the deck surface is not rusty or scratched. Whats the ballpark price I would be paying to have my crank case reconditioned?? what is your experiece in rebuilding an l28?? I assume that most of the…
Last reply by trogdor1138, -
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Hi all, I noticed a stamp on the top of my 240 gas tank as I was cleaning the exterior. Anyone seen one of these before? I assume it is just an inspection stamp. Looks like it says 45 1.98 with a katakana alphabet character above that? Mike Stamp location: Stamp:
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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Front transmission seal is in backwards?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I have reassembled ~ 10 stock heads using my trusty Sears valve spring compressor however, the wider Schneider spring retainers prevent the tool from working next to the cam towers. The increased spring forces of the stronger springs also made in challenging. In the end I had to go backwards a few steps. Here is what I recommend for others who find this post in the future: 1. Remove cam towers 2. Remove rocker pivot bolts 3. Adjust the tool so that you do not have to change the vice handle tensioner: Set the pin so that you can press it against the valve face,at the other end you can then press the springs down with your thumbs to walk the fork over the spring retaine…
Last reply by trogdor1138, -
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I have discovered that my camshaft (at least 2 lobes) is fairly worn. It will be a few weeks before I get a chance to have this replaced so I was wondering if it is dangerous to drive it like this. I understand that the surface of the cam is hardened steel but as you get below this it becomes softer and more prone to wear. What is the chance of a catastrophic type event (i.e. large piece of metal coming loose and doing some major damage)? Thanks for the input.
Last reply by colinc, -
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Assembling engine. Just wanted a check on my assumptions where I should use red loctite: 1. Crank Bolt 2. Flywheel Bolts 3. Pressure Plate Bolts 4. Oil pick-up bolts 5. PCV-tube-mesh plate screws
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have a 260Z with about 157,000 miles. I am about to change the oil for the first time and need some opinions on oil and filter to use. I live in Ms where the temps in the summer will get up to 100 degrees. Thanks!!
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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I am about to dig into an engine and was wondering if the Connector-pipe is removable. The pipe I am talking about goes from the engine block to the PCV valve and is located under the intake at the front of the engine. It is high lighted for those who can't tell...
Last reply by LeonV, -
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just picked up a sweet 70 Z, i notice there's no hose attached to the radiator overflow nipple, or an expansion tank. should there be?? thanks, Ken
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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1978 280z L28 Ok I tried searching for this and couldn't find anything so far. Can anyone tell me which way the side seals go in on the rear main cap? When I say which way, I mean they are not perfectly square. One side is, the other has two "lips" on it so that when viewed from above, it looks rather like a lazy 'C'. I assume this side would go toward the block, but can anyone tell me? I've also got two small metal strips that came with my Felpro kit. Are these to push the seals in? Or are they installed with the seals? Any help would be appreciated. The FSM says jack about it except to install the side seals using some sealant. Thanks! Aaron
Last reply by oranngetang, -
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I am in the final stages of the reassembly of my rebuilt motor for my 73 z w/ automatic trans. My air galley is broken on a couple of tubes and i decided to remove it along with the inoperable smog/air pump. I purchased hex head bolt/plugs (6) from Mcmaster-Carr using info I took off another thread here for type & size. What else do I have to plug up? Would I be better off buying a new air galley ($130) and finding another smog pump? Any reason to do so? I do not need it to pass inspection. I also need a automatic transmission cooling line. It's about a foot long s shaped hose with the pressed on fittings. Anyone know where to get one? Thanks, Greg
Last reply by GregP, -
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Hello! I have a 1979 L24E, whose head is an N47 (I think). My friend has an N42 head off of a 75 280z. I've heard tales of larger valves and larger (or better) square exhaust ports. If I swapped the head, I would use the 280z cam, valvetrain, etc. My question is: If I swapped in the N42 head, would I see any real benefits with my dished pistons? Are there combustion chamber differences between these two heads?
Last reply by BloodOnTheApex,
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