Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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My '72 is missing an engine-driven cooling fan and clutch, and I scored one from another owner; however, the hub appears to be seized. Correct me if I'm wrong, but at ambient temperature, I should be able to turn the water pump pulley mounting flange by hand, yes? And there should be molasses-like resistance in the clutch itself?
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
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I already regret starting this thread, but I've done multiple searches for an answer, which I cannot find. So it's probably ridiculously easy... Anyway, I'm pulling the engine and trans out of my 70' Z tonight, and have disconnected all the hoses, wires, linkages, removed the air cleaner, fan, rad, and drained the fluids from engine and trans. I'm about to go back into the garage and pull the driveshaft out by unbolting it from the diff and sliding it out of the trans. My question is.. How on earth do you remove the shifter? My guess is the console needs to come off and then it'll be fairly self explanatory, perhaps some screws holding down the rubber neck on the shift…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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the engine runs anywhere from 1500 to 2000 rpm idling depending on the ambient air temp. When I first got it, it used to run right about 1000. I originally had a problem with the defroster not working properly. It wouldn't always close the valve to divert the air from the rest of the system to the window. I replaced the heater core and reconnected everything. It worked long enough to pass inspection, then the same problem started. I hand over handed the vacuum system and found the boots into the vacuum cylinder in the engine compartment had dry rotted. I replaced those with aftermarket off the shelf connections and again it worked for a little while. I suspect it …
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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M2 Differentials is now offering billet 4140 chromoly 27 spline CV adapters to fit 280Z stub axles and 84-89 300ZX Turbo CV shafts (except oddball 88 SS version). These adapters are zinc plated and will come with 280ZXT stub axle nuts. The problem with this CV swap as it has been done in the past is that the CV shafts are too long. When the CV is too long, the shaft itself effectively becomes a bump stop for the suspension, and when the suspension moves it puts a lot of lateral load on the control arms and struts, wheel bearings, and the differential. We have solved this problem too with our short chromoly CV shafts, and we expect most new customers to buy both of these p…
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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I just replaced a '79 5-speed with a '77 or '78, 5-speed, and this one allows the shifter to go from 5th directly into reverse. All of my previous transmissions, all later models, do not allow this motion.
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 5 replies
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I have about 3000 miles on this engine that I rebuilt, after a catastrophic failure at the race track. The head was not rebuilt and has about 10,000 miles on it since the rebuild. I noticed my radiator was swollen last week, and that it was wet around the top tank seam. Now, looking at photos from when I blew the engine, I see that the swelling actually happened when I blew the engine last year. It was a major head gasket failure and three shattered pistons from detonation. So we know the radiator took a beating when the engine blew. It is getting replaced next week. However, I am thinking that I still may have a head gasket leak, or a crack in a cooling jacket of t…
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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Still waiting to get e-mailed the dyno sheet, but basically I did 150/150 I guess I should be happy for a l24 AFR's were decent, but the SM's are too much in my opinion and the opinion of the race shop I dynoed at. I was barely above 12's and he felt I needed closer to 13's from what they see on NA motors. What I learned from this experience; SM needles are too much for the L24 with a mild cam and there is no amount of adjustment that will lean it out on WOT( I tried)Sorry guys, the mixture screws do not effect the entire power band. The butt dyno is misleading:disappoin My engine seemed detonation proof(even at 38 full advance)-no signs of it anywhere, either audible or…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 7 replies
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I've searched and found that GL-4 gear oil should be used in my transmission and everyone seems to be using redline oil for their transmissions. But I can't find any gear oil that is only GL-4. My question is can I use Valvoline 80w-90 gear oil even though on the back of the bottle it says, "Recommended for all hypoid differentials (conventional and limited slip) and manual transmissions where an API GL-4, GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified."
Last reply by jmortensen, -
Can someone tell me the differance between the 240 and 260 engines ? hp? has anyone had any experience with these rebuilt engines from Datsun LLC in California,,completly rebuilt with head for 2k +shipping...seems like the way to go,, R AND R and no bull from local machine shops that dont work on these engines on a regular bases...or does anyone have a machine shop they use and are happy with in the White plains new york area... THANKS
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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I am reading so many posts on this that some people used the b& c on the e12/80 and I thought that someone did not use it they took off the e12/80 .so what to do?I just ordered it and want to be ready when it gets here I also ordered the tach adaptor 8910 . thanks kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
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I'm cleaning-up my air cleaner housing on my 76 and there is a gasket (seal) under the lid aorund the outter edge. It was all dried and cracked so I scraped it off. Does anyone know where I can purchase a new one of these or will I have to make my own. Any help is greatly appreciated Thanks Gary
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 43 replies
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First off, let me acknowledge that I'm sure this question has been asked a hundred times, and yes, I've searched. But unless I'm missing something, the search capabilities of the forum leave a lot to be desired.** So, I want to replace the oil pump in my 77 because I've got low oil pressure. I've checked the pressure with a mechanical gauge, so I know it's a real problem and not simply a sender or gauge issue. I've truly got low oil pressure. I don't know yet if it's the sole source of my problems, but I've pulled the oil pump out and it doesn't look too healthy inside. Any recommendations as to which oil pump to use? Direct year replacement? Higher volume ZX pump? Cheap …
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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