Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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I want to take my S30 block to the machine shop for some work. But I am worried about the oil pressure bypass valve. Some shops in California do not hot tank to clean, they bake the block at very high temp. Should I remove the valve and replace with new or will it survive a hot tanking or a baking? It looks like it would be destroyed by prying it out of the block. Also, what is the best way to clean the carbon off the tops of the pistons? One more. I am removing the oil gallery plugs. Are the replacements called Dowels? That is all I see listed at Zsource and Motorsports. Thanks Mike
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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am I crazy to undertake it on my own with just jack stands and a floor jack? The front seal is leaking and I'm tempted to try it. I know removal is much easier than getting everything lined up for putting it back and not sure if getting it all lined up and held in place can be a one person job. Trevor http://240z.me
Last reply by Darrel, -
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I recently dissassembled the L28 in my '78. Its a N42/N47. After cleaning up the pistons, I noticed that 4 have the number"23" stamped in the face and 2 have "34" markings. The rods and rod caps also don't have matching numbers. Some of the rods have the following markings "6-0 A87-1" , "4-0 A87-2", "6-0 A87-2. The caps are marked 92-0 2, 93-0 1, 96-0 1, 97-0 3, etc. Anyone tell me what these markings mean?
Last reply by cajunz, -
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Hi, I'm about to rebuild header. I need to purchase valve spring compressor. There are several different type of valve spring compressor in the market. Does all of them works for L28 header? There are 8" and 10" one. Which one works? Thanks, Tamo3
Last reply by moonpup, -
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I've searched but didn't find a answere. Question is is there a procedure for braking in a new stock clutch? I have a new engine with 1232 miles and clutch with 1500 miles. Is it normal to smell clutch when down shifting? AATCO who installed the clutch says there was no brake in needed. Reason I ask is because I been using the clutch to down shift more rather than using the brakes to stop. I'm not letting go of the clutch pedal all that fast but still get a little smell when ever I do down shift, or is this normal? Worked and still works fine for the first 1200 miles or at least untill I started paying attention once I started intentionally down shifting on purpose. Keep …
Last reply by MotoManMike, -
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My 72 has an all stock rebuild on the L24. I got it back from the machine shop about 6 months ago, and have been slowly working on getting everything put back together. At this time it should run, but it keeps spitting and popping back through the carbs. It will crank, fire while doing so and catch for a few seconds, until the rpms start to come up a little bit and then it pops hard enough to blow all the air and fuel out of the carbs and dies. I have verified the firing order many times over, replaced the plug wires with a new set I had on the shelf, checked and reset the valve clearance. All to no avail. I was thinking I must have a mechanical problem, an intake…
Last reply by 72240Z, -
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Hi, so I am in the process of converting my car from flattop to roundtop carbs. I have the intake manifold, balance tube, and carbs for both setups. The engine is an L28 that came with flattop carbs on it and a mess of hoses and wires. I need help identifying hoses and figuring out what I don't need, etc. I have removed the flattops and their balance tube, then bolted on the balance tube for the roundtops to notice that there's no spots for some of the hoses that are there. I have pictures attached. The next thing I noticed is the roundtops won't fit on the manifold and need the larger bolts of the manifold that came with them, so does this mean they won't work on the n33…
Last reply by yoshi_w, -
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I've got the engine from my '78 pulled and dissassembled (N47/N42). The crank, cam, and rods look to be in good shape. Probably just a polish on the journals. The bores have a very faint ridge at the top and there is some scuffing on the piston skirts and bottom of each cylinder bore. I checked the bore taper on each cylinder and came up with .0018 taper across all cylinders. My question is, do I need to have the block bored/honed or am I good with just honing? There aren't any mechanics/machinists around here who work on these engines. The one machinist that I talked to said he recommended boring out .020 over. He said he could do the the bore/honing, checking the…
Last reply by MotoManMike, -
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Should I use Loctite or brush on gasket sealer? Will freezing them make them easier to go in? Parts guy suggested getting them cold. Thanks for any replys.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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OK, so I'm deep into the rear end rebuild right now, and I'm trying to take the half-shafts apart to give them their "30,000 mile repack" that no one ever actually does. I already have all the U-joints out and I'm replacing those, and I've bought new half-shaft boots (They're actually still available from Nissan, and not very expensive). To use the boots, I have to take the shafts apart anyway, so a good cleanout and regrease would be good too. But. I can't get them apart. I have the boot slid back, I have the circlip and "yoke stopper" removed (essentially a big washer). I can now slide the shaft out far enough that I can get the first layer of plastic cylinders ou…
Last reply by clint72, -
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Hey all, quick intro. Mitch from NZ currently own a WP230 or in lamen terms a 240C wagon, KP610 180B SSS coupe and a VB210 120Y two door wagon. Recogize a few names around here so feel quite at home. What diff is the 240C running? I assume it's a H190 10-bolt. Reason for asking it's whining more that my wife, considering going with an LSD unit from a Terrano/Pathfinder. Also will a L28 sit beneath the hood without any major issues?
Last reply by Willoughby Z, -
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Z newbie disclaimer: While I have moderate knowledge on performance topics, I don't have mega performance or Z-specific knowledge. Folks here seem to have mad Z knowledge and I'm looking for a handout... My recently acquired 260Z came with an E88 head and P30 block. It seems to be bone stock, i.e. flat-top, boat anchor SU's and a slushbox. Via craigslist, I got a P79 head and a P30 block. This setup came with 3-screw SU's, simplified balance tube, 5spd, and headers. With these parts I would like to figure out the best head/block combo for autocross performance. I will run with 93 octane. Most of the time I am in 2nd gear for the autocross courses that I run. I need goo…
Last reply by hagdog,
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