Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Ok so I'm looking at using an F54 flat top l28 and a N42 head with a reground cam electronic ignition 6 to 1 header SU carbs lightened flywheel close ratio 5 speed and 3.90 R200. Should make a pretty quick car considering the light weight of the 71. My question is is the CR going to be ok with the F54/N42 combo and what cam specs would you recommend. Z-Engine Calculator says that N42 on a flat top motor with felpro 1mm headgasket should be 9.97:1 CR. Sounds like it would be okay to me but there are many of you with more L series experience than me.
Last reply by Zguy91, -
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- 2 replies
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I am putting a rebuilt N42 head on an L28 (79) and am having some issues. First I can't get the cam sprocket back on, I've read all the posts about this problem but have another problem to go with it, namely I believe the timing chain slipped about 3-4 notches from where it needs to be to maintain the timing. Short of pulling the front cover is there any solution? Other questions, if I have to pull the front cover do I need to take off the oil pan? Can the dizzy and oil pump be left on the cover? I've read lots of stuff about pulling the crank pulley but nothing about putting it back on. Any good ideas on taking out the crank bolt with no flywheel in place, just the bolt…
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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I had my valve cover polished and the company broke the vent pipe that comes out the top, see pic below. I noticed there are 18 mm threads in the opening and figured someone must have figured a way to fix it. Any ideas?
Last reply by Duffman, -
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My 73 240 has triple Webers on it. The previous owner who added these did next to nothing with all of the ventilation hoses coming from the block that used to hook up to the original manifold and carbs. So right now, I have a hose coming out of the front driver's side of the block (under the distributor) that connects to nothing. Can this hose be blocked or does it need to be vented like the one coming out of the valve cover? Thanks!
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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Hello All, I know this may have been covered but I need step by step help that I may follow: As you guys know I am running Mukunis tripple. L24 engine, msa 2.5 exhaust. I hate the fact that everytime I turn the key, it take two, three times to start. I would not have a problem with it if it just when first cold start but even if I get to the store and jump right back in the car it does it. It is embarrassing when everyone looking at the car and when you go starting it, it takes two three or four tries. We checked the timing and adjust and got same result. so it is back to where it was at first. I need help from all Mikunis guys or prior knowledge with this issue. Once in …
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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I have a N42 head which is undergoing basic valve work, the head was warped and will be milled on bottom and top to a total of (not positive yet) of around 20 to 25 thousandths. If I use 1 shim of 15 thousandths per tower will that be sufficient to maintain cam geometry? Or should I have it milled to a total of 30 and use 2 shims per tower? Thanx.
Last reply by mjr45, -
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I just bought a very inexpensive early (1977) 280Z 5-speed transmission to replace the 4-speed on my '72 240Z. It may be in good shape as it was pulled from a running vehicle many years ago to be used as a spare for racing. It was stored and never used. The input shaft where the clutch and pilot bearing would be mounted is rusty and a little bit pitted. I got the fill and drain plugs off and there was only some black greasy material inside around the drain plug hole. The magnet on the drain plug did not have any metal, so that was a good sign. I could not see any rust inside, but a few drops of water did come out with the greasy goo. Short of a complete rebuild, whi…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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I am in the process of rebuilding my 73 240Z motor. Should I install a new oil pump at the same time? The one that was in it seemed to be working fine but since I am doing everything over and it’s such an important part I was thinking of replacing it now. The motor is being rebuilt as close as possible to stock. Should I go with an OEM pump or is there something better out there? The car will be used for cruising only. Thanks, Greg
Last reply by george71z, -
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I am at tdc, and this is where my rotor is sitting. My finger is on wire 1. This is a D612-53 distributor. Am I correct that my distributor shaft is out of alignment? It runs like this, seems alright, but I do need to dial it all in and not sure if this is causing me some trouble in doing so. I picked up a turbo oil pump and was thinking I should put the shaft back into alignment correctly when doing the pump, but making sure this indeed does look out of whack. I never took the oil pump out of this L28, so I am just assuming previous owner set it up like this, or perhaps when I put this 240z distributor on it maybe that's just the way its supposed to line up. …
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I just put my motor in my 240 yesterday and want to start by putting the headers on now. I have a brand new 6into1 header from MSA. Does anyone know how this thing attaches. It didnt come with hardware and there arn't any holes just "openings" where the studs go thru. Does anyone have any pictures i can refere to . Thanks Mark
Last reply by robert11256, -
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Clubbers, While I had my Z up on stands, I gave a push-pull to the half-shafts. The left (driver's) side seemed to have some play. I removed the half-shafts, expecting a worn U-joint but instead discovered that the source of the play was the differential itself. I don't have a micrometer and its unmeasurable with a ruler, but their definitely is some in-out movement, along with an accompanying clunk (faint) when I tug and push on the bracket that attaches to the half-shaft. It's a 1972 with the 4-spd stock differential, a R-200. Is this something to be concerned about? Or normal play in an unloaded condition? The right (passenger side) does not have any play. Chris
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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I have a slight leak in my '71 240Z OEM radiator. Are new OEM Nissan 240Z radiators still available?
Last reply by jmark,
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