Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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Hi. The day eventually came when I could start the 240Z 74 { basic tune running SU type Carbs} I have had the engine re built with new pistons / rings/ valves the head pressure tested etc and it was all put back together by a professional engine builder. So I know { hope} there is not an issue with the actual motor. I set the static timing. Put in a millers 20-50. Filled up the cooling system. Pulled all the plugs and spun it over to get some oil round. Put a bit of fuel in the tank. Set the SU carbs as best I could. I replaced the plugs and cranked it over. It fired and ran. The engine was rebuilt back in may 2011 and has sat since then. The engine ran…
Last reply by Lyttek, -
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1978 280z idles as smooth as could be, cold or hot. problem only occurs when warm, and seems to appear after stopping at a light. replaced plugs, wires, cap/rotor, have recently replaced injectors. Thought the TPS sensor connector looked corroded, so cleaned the contacts in both the plug and sensor. It *feels* like it disappears if I tromp the accelerator when it's happening, but not completely sure. The other day I drove it for about 35 minutes, no problem. Sat for about 10 mins, then drove back into town, another 30 minutes. Got almost home, stopped at a red light, as soon as I took off, it starts missing, intermittently, and feels like it's only one cylinder. Does…
Last reply by Lyttek, -
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I've got all the parts to reassemble an L28 motor as part of an old school E88 head / L28 block combo project. I've got .040" bored over pistons on stock L28 rods and the rings my machine shop obtained for me are the chromoly type which I believe are standard for OEM. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to properly break in / or bed-in these kind of rings when the motor is first running? A friend of mine told me that he likes to lug a freshly built motor while driving up an incline or hill a few times to allow the rings to seat. Would this practice be okay for both cast iron and chromoly rings? Any feedback or opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Last reply by chaztg, -
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So I pulled my plugs today after my car has been sitting for about 4 days and my spark plugs were all wet and smelled like fuel. About a week ago, after a drive, I inspected all 6 injectors (even though I didn't know what I was looking for) and to me they all looked good and I couldn't tell if it was leaking or not. It did not seem like it was to me atleast, but what would I know. I understand that it's most likely the cold start valve then all 6 injectors are leaking, but when I unplugged the connection to the cold start valve it caused hard starting in the mornings.. If it's leaking shouldn't it be easy start anyway's? And spark plugs 3-6 are fouled out.. but if every s…
Last reply by mn91, -
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I just recently bought a '77 280z 5 speed all original drivetrain nothing swapped in or out. Occasionally when driving at about 2800 rpms i get a noise from what seems to be coming from the transmission tunnel that sounds like a whining puppy. Any ideas on the culprit? Or is it nothing to be concerned with?
Last reply by chaztg, -
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I'm in the process of assembling an engine and I need to know whether or not to put some sort of gasket material on the spray bar to cam tower joint. I want to make sure that I minimize the oil leaking out of the joint. However, RTV makes me nervous as it may break off and plug the spray bar holes. I wasn't able to find any mention of a gasket in the FSM. Anyone have any experience with this?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
While this may seem like somewhat of an odd question, I figured you guys would be able to give me the most insight to see if I've actually found something that will work. To start off, I've been an avid Z car nut for close to 8 or so years now (8th grade to 23), and have owned 6 different Zs. Them being a '73 240z, a '74 260z, a '78 280z, an '86 300zx Turbo, and two '87 300zx Turbos. You could say I have a bit of a problem! I'm extremely familiar with the L series engine, having built a few for friends, but I would like to double check with you guys for your opinion on this engine concept. I love the torque out of the L28, but what I really like is the rev happy L24. I fi…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Trying to price a rebuild for one of these and need to know what I'm missing. Got my shop prices but plan to assemble myself. Thermostat(just cause), gasket set, bearings, rings. Should clean up with a hone job so no pistons. Think the intake/exhaust gasket will be in the $85 gasket set I found? I'm a mopar guy and still kinda new to my daughter's z. she hurt it bad and I'm about to learn a thing or two ;-) Pretty stock rebuild. Not a race car/no concourse. Thanks in advance Shawn
Last reply by Lazeum, -
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I am now into the restoration of my motor and have begun to pull the head apart. The center cam lobe is badly galled in has damaged the tower. This has me thinking I should just purchase a rebuilt head and get it over with, this head has 100K on it. Any recommendations? Vendors? It's a stock e88 on a mild 2.6, so I don't need anything exotic. Any input is appreciated Thanks Dean
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Came out during intake and exhaust gasket job. Any ideas?
Last reply by Ben's Z, -
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While investigating my intake backfire I noticed out of the cylinder closest to the firewall I have exhaust coming out. I decided to do the gasket. Anyhow I got the intake and exhaust manifold off. The exhaust manifold stud closest to the radiator was finger tight, turns out someone had previously busted the stud off flush with the head; it was basically laying in there. I tried my best to work around the distributor to drill out the remaining stud but I think I am getting into the aluminum head some. I was checking myself with the new gasket as a template and using my magnet to pick up the shavings, definitely mostly steel. I actually have a heli-coil from a previo…
Last reply by grantf, -
- 11 replies
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Next week I'm picking up a 1976 with the orginal motor which supposedly runs pretty well, Its got around 80K miles on it (hopefully not 180K). Anyway, the first thing I plan on doing is checking the oil and changing it and the oil filter. I'm thinking of pulling the valve cover and oil pan first to clean out any "gunk". Have or would any of you guys use somehing like Amsoil engine oil flush in these motors? Or would this just open up a lot of leaks and other problems? I'm sure down the road I'm looking at a rebuild, but I don't currently have the time or money so I'm thinking of changing all the fluids for now (antifreeze, brake fluid, differential fluid, etc) and cleani…
Last reply by rotorgoat,
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Terrapin Z
