Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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I have a 123 distributor with a Bluetooth app I can set any timing I want. engine specs: l26 N42 head new stock bearing and rings. Schneider stage 3 460 lift 280 dur. timed 5 degrees adv to spec dual weber 32/36 dgv, I have a jet kit but need to get my o2 sensor working pacesetter headers 2.5in exhaust really good ignition components kameari twin idlers and adjustable cam gear 3 core rad with dual 12 in fans for cooling. heat shielding everywhere. a video of it running
Last reply by youztheclue, -
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One bolt broken, one fully loose but won't come out, and the pump housing itself absolutely refuses to come out. I can twist it slightly back and forth, but have made not even 1mm of progress getting it to come off. I'm trying to get this engine disassembled so it can go to the machine shop to be reconditioned, and I'm tempted to just have them remove the pump by any means necessary and replace it.
Last reply by ArcticFoxCJ, -
- 3 followers
- 8 replies
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I’m trying to drop my oil pan and this is in the way I think. Is it a coolant drain? How would I go about taking it off? Thanks!
Last reply by corbenB, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 741 views
Hi Friends, so my coolant reservoir is at MIN at operating temp after some driving. Does it means I need to add more? Should I just top it off to MAX while it is running in the reservoir? Thanks.
Last reply by kickstand80, -
- 18 followers
- 537 replies
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So most of the regulars on the forum know I rebuilt an L-28 last year. With all sort of reasons for delaying the install I’m now about ready to do this. I wanted to start a thread to help lead me though any unknowns or challenges I’m bound to face on this next big task. To get everyone up to speed, the current engine has all sorts of problems that pushed me to just do a rebuild with a ZX motor I got at a salvage yard. Here are the bigs three items wrong with the current engine. 1. Rusted Core Plugs, so rusted that coolant leaked pretty bad. I had a temp fix of filling the rusted out holes with JB weld. It’s actually held. 2. Serious timing changing slap (needs …
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
Water Pump
by z8987- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 1.3k views
It looks like my water pump is leaking. I'm getting ready to remove it and figure out what the problem is. I hope my video will allow somebody to affirm or not that it's my water pump? Also, any tricks to remove and replace? I'm sure those bolts have been in there for years, and probably need to be finessed? Any tips are welcome? IMG_7903.MOV
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
- 6 followers
- 62 replies
- 15k views
Hey Guys, My 72 240z began to overheat a few days ago while driving around town. So i've decided to overhall the entire cooling system (hoses, waterpump, thermostat, etc). My question is, go with an electric fan or use a new fan clutch and radiator shroud (the one MSA sells for the 240)? At first i thought going the clutch/shroud way would be cheaper, but after pricing it out, it's almost the same price if not more for the latter... Any suggestions?
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
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I have a 1995 240sx transmission in my 280z and am in the process of rebuilding it. I need to replace the front bearing on the counter shaft. It is a 62 x 22 x 17mm bearing. It is a Nachi bearing which is the original bearing for the trans. I would like to replace it with a new Nachi bearing but I just can't go to a Nachi bearing distributor and order it. It is a proprietory bearing made just for Nissan and must be purchased thru them. I called Courtesy Nissan and they want to know the VIN num. on the car which I don't have because I only purchased the trans. Does anyone know the part number for the front bearing on the countershaft for this 5 speed. The number on the bea…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 33 replies
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So I'm slowly building up a nice cylinder head with some good bits from Japan (Kameari Titanium retainers & 8000rpm safe valve springs) but when wondering about picking out a cam I got to thinking about the bottom end's rev limit. Mine is an 81 F54 which I had cleaned up (hot tank, hone, check for straightness, etc) a year ago and to which I fitted new bearings and rings. Having only the seen addition of a deeper and baffled sump & a higher flowing oil pump it is basically stock. I know the L28 revs less than the L24 but does anyone have a specific number I should keep in mind? For example if the bottom end can only handle say a max of 6500rpm it doesn't make much…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 reply
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I just pulled apart this r180 that I got from a 74.5 260z and I’d like to confirm the gear ratio. I pulled the cover off and I don’t see any stamp on the ring… even spun it 360* 🥲 This thing looks nasty. Really want to clean out the casing. Gonna flip it over and let all the crap come out.
Last reply by zKars, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 609 views
I found this on CL
Last reply by Daluvian, -
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Guys, when i bought the car i took a risk. I knew it was overheated and also later found the head cracked. So far we have replaced the head and car seems to run decent. Took these compression readings last week and wanted to share. Cylinder 1: 130 Cylinder 2: 130 Cylinder 3: 135 Cylinder 4: 140 Cylinder 5: 130 Cylinder 6: 130 I have yet to see if it burns any oil. Not driven too much. But i expect older engine to burn a bit which is fine. I change every year and dont drive too much. What do you guys think about these numbers? Personally i expected a bit worse but I think 130+ should be acceptable? Any advises for on-going maintenance are appr…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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