Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
I discovered that one of my drive shaft U-joints is on the way out. Looks like they are easy to replace however I need to decide on which brand to buy. Does anyone have any experience using Precision, ACDelco, Federated or Beck/Arnley? Are these any different than the "heavy duty" ones that MSA sells? If the drive shaft was going in my street 240Z then I wouldn't worry about it as much but this one is going in my track car so I want to make sure I pick a U-joint that will stand up to punishment the best.
Last reply by Zealous, -
-
- 0 replies
- 1.1k views
I just got done installing a 3 row rad. i tried installing a new temp sensor but the probe was stuck, it would not come out. my question is, will a 240z thermostat housing fit on an L28???? the part that bolts onto the motor. it seems like the previous owner used JB weld on the sensor and other bolts too. I'm assuming mine is a 240z housing because the top water outlet only has two holes to bolt it in place???
Last reply by s30z_lou, -
- 3 replies
- 2k views
Well, it seems my E31 head is too eaten up by electrolysis to be cost effective to repair. I was able to get what appears to be a good E88 head from a friend. Are there any differences I should be aware of between the two heads on an otherwise stock L24?
Last reply by 5150 will, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
I am going to remove the differential to give me more access to clean things up and before I unbolt the axles and driveline, do I need to mark these so when I bolt them all back up they go on the same position they came off or is it just the driveline that is necessary. I assume the driveline will also slide out of the transmission when I do this. Does this also have to be marked so it goes in the trans at the exact same location? Thanks. This is becoming quite the "If You Give A Mouse A Cookie" story. "If You Give A Guy A Z ......"
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 19 replies
- 6.9k views
I'd like to do a high CR N/A build. I have an L24 e88 head with a fresh reground cam .460 280/280. Guessing the bottom end is stock. Dual webers 32/36 After searching I don't see much info on using the e88 head for an NA build, everyone seems to be going with a n47 or p90 i believe My questions 1st how do I know what block I have? 2nd should I get an l28 with one of the other heads for a good NA build? And, if that's what I do will the cam I have work in the other head? 3rd will the e88 make a good high compression head? maybe with some work done? or is this not cost effective? I am not an experienced mechanic....but I have been able to do almost all the work myself s…
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
- 0 replies
- 949 views
Greetings, Does the clutch release bearing setting need to be adjusted with clutch wear or does it only need to be checked and adjusted when a new clutch is installed? Chris
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 5 replies
- 1.5k views
I removed the halfshafts & driveshaft today to replace all the unis, upon completion I connected only the driveshaft back to test for any vibrations (the halfshatfs are not connected), so the diff companion flanges just spin by themselves. It was all smooth until about 80kph or 50mph then I can hear the tunnel vibrates, kinda loud. If I rev it pass that speed then its fine, tried gear 3,4 and 5 and all have the same problem. When I install the unis I put both the grease nipples on the same side (the nipples are on the caps) instead of opposite sides, could this be the culprit to the vibration? They are a few grams max, could it be that they caused the vibration since…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 7 replies
- 2.4k views
My high school auto mechanics is pretty rusty... I have been working on this 8/70 Z that has been sitting since 87. I've gone through all the basics, hoses, belts, gas tank, all fluids, rebuilt the carbs, etc. The last thing I did was rebuild the carbs. The front 3 carbs were getting no gas to the engine - I adjusted the float and then I heard what sounded like a loud exhaust leak somewhere towards the front of the motor. I ended up taking off the intake and exhaust manifolds and was ready to start putting it back together when I thought - wait what if it wasn't an exhaust leak but something worse? So I got a compression tester from Autozone and here are my results:…
Last reply by doradox, -
- 11 replies
- 2.5k views
My 71 lately has been having a hard time revving above 5000 rpm. It starts to spit and sputter and just is generally NOT happy there. I have checked the Vacuum advance, it is perfect,, I have set the timing, it is dead nuts on and stable as a rock Set at 14 Deg BTDC as my DiZZY rebuilder recommended since he changed the curve to the european one. The car starts instantaneously and idles as smooth as you can image. Below 5000 rpm it could be a honda it revs so smoothly. So with timing not the issue (new plugs and wires and cap and rotor and pertronix is getting voltage it should), I moved on the the carbs, as it is acting like it is running very lean. I pulled the plu…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 21 replies
- 7.4k views
I've been working on a problem for several of months that I can't figure out. When my engine warms up all the way, it starts making a ticking noise. It is worse under load. I first thought of an exhaust leak but they usually happen cold and go away when things warm up. By pulling off one plug wire at a time and one injector plug at a time, I have narrowed it to #6 cylinder. I swapped #5 and #6 plugs, then #5 and #6 plug wires and the noise was still in #6 cylinder. I took #6 injector out and tested the spray. It looked good, but I cleaned it several times any way. I then switched #5 and #6 fuel injectors but the ticking still came from #6 position. I have replaced all my…
Last reply by dankfrye@charter.net, -
- 0 replies
- 928 views
I have found a 82 turbo engine for a rebuild. I was wondering if I could rebuild the short block and put all my non turbo engine parts from my 77 L28 on the block?
Last reply by 280m, -
- 7 replies
- 3.5k views
I did a compression test on my recently rebuilt 260z engine. It has about 1500 miles on it. On the dry test with the carb fully open and the coil wire off I get the following results # 1 thru #5 came in at about 72 lbs but the # 6 came it at around 90lbs On the wet test all came in at 90 lbs including the # 6. I am rather new to this and this is the first time I have done a compression test, so my questions are- why would the # 6 not change from a dry to wet test. The warranty expires next week on this engine and I wanted to do this test prior to the warranty expiring.Is this something to be concerned about? Thnaks zdude1967
Last reply by zdude1967,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
