Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
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I picked up a 1976 280Z 2+2 over the weekend. According to the seller, "starts right up, really purrrs, positive acceleration". However, that is far from what's happening (buyer beware). When I try to start it, it doesn't start very well, really idles rough, and when I give it some gas (not even under load), it stumbles, boggs, and backfires a little before it picks up rpm. Once I get it up around 1500 to 2000 rpm, it smooths outs and runs OK and doesn't make excessive noises. The good; The oil pressure seems good; there isn't any blue or black smoke from the tail pipe up[on start up or reving; the exhaust coming out the tail pipe at say 2000 rpm is steady and smooth. The…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Does anyone know what Z those cvs came from? They look a bit long for the 280zxt's, Im thinking of the z31 NA cvs but Im not sure, could be z32? The reason I ask is I want to source the bolts for the cv to the flange. Thanks
Last reply by lubu, -
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Got my front and rear control arm bushings installed (stock). Decided on stock mustache bar bushings. They are longer than I expected, but I figure after you press them in you have to flare the end somehow. Check the photo. Is this the right part ('72Z with an R200 swap). If its right, how do you press them in? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32789
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
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I need help with my car. I started a new thread as the other was becoming too long. My main issue is that the car underwent a 7 year restoration. The engine was dismantelled, fitted with new rings bearings and gaskets. Ever since it's been reassembled it is hesitant to accelerate from any RPM low or high and hot or cold. It idles really smooth and is also smooth at any constant RPM. It also idles high when cold but fine when hot. I have already swapped out the coil, plugs, leads, distributor and cap, checked all the vacuum lines, changed the thermotime and water sensors, changed the ecu, cleaned all the electric terminals and adjusted the idle and mixture screws. All of t…
Last reply by Kevin Livesey, -
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Hi, I have a Fairlady Z(similar to the 280Z but with L20E 6cylinder) with the engine overhauled and running the original fuel injection. The car seems to be under powered. The car is running really smooth from idle to the red line but does not seem to have much power. All the fuel injection and ignition components except the injectors on the engine had been swapped out with no difference in the way it runs. I am wondering about the original catilytic converter maybe restricting my power. Can I just remove it and what about the sensor from it? Can I fit 280 fuel injectors instead of the 2L ones. Also what else can I do to up the power without doing an engine transplant.
Last reply by Kevin Livesey, -
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Has anybody found a source for .160in lash pads? Seems that they are rare as hens teeth. I am at the point of having the stock pad valve stem indent welded up and ground to spec.:disappoin
Last reply by Dobber, -
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I had my 76 280 2+2 4 speed manual sitting for a few weeks and went out to take her for a spin today and cannot shift into a gear with the engine started. They just grind instead of going directly in. If I turn the car off I can put it into a gear and get it into first, but cannot shift into second. Anyone have any idea what it could be? Clutch or transmission?
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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Hi, I have a stock 1978 280z that is in pretty good shape (pretty much all original as far as I can tell- no engine nor drivetrain mods). In the last week the engine is been dying frequently when I engage the reverse gear. If I try to start with the clutch in but the lever in reverse, the engine will attempt to start but it will not keep the engine running; only when I put it in neutral or in a forward gear. Could this be related to either the reverse switch or a clutch switch (that closes the ignition circuit? I'll appreciate any tips/leads to troubleshoot this puzzling thing. Thanks. Raul.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello All, I am trying to refreash my 1972 240Z. I had the engine rebuilt by a machine shop and finally got it back home and in the car. After putting everything else back on I tried to start it. It took me about 3 weeks to figure out that the distributer was on backwards. Now I know that you cannot put the Z car Dist on backwards because the shaft has an offset key. But when all else was correct the only thing left was that the rotor was pointing aft when the No 1 piston was at TDC. I moved all the spark plug wires to opposite points and the engine fired up. Now the problem is that I have a distributor that is "backwards" but the real problem is that I ran the e…
Last reply by Harry Walker, -
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Hello! Quick question for you guys with the GPS Speedometers. I bought a GPS speedometer from speedhut and I am currently installing all of my new gauges. Since the GPS speedo doesnt need the speedometer cable, what do I do with it? I would just remove the cable, but what would I use to plug up the transmission? Please let me know what my options are or what you guys have done to solve this minor issue. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by ktm, -
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My 78 280Z exhibits some bucking but only below a half a tank of gas. I has been explained to me that the fuel pipe in the tank may have a hole in it and when the fuel gets low it starts sucking air & fuel. I fill the car up & it runs fine. The gas tank has been redone, fuel filter cleaned etc. The only way to fix is to pull the tube and basket by drilling another hole in the tank. The fuel tank seems to be a weak point on these cars especially when the car isn't driven much and allowed to sit. I have been told to keep the tank full when storing. Are there no plastic Z fuel tank reproductions? I gotta believe they wouldn't be that costly to make and there is a mar…
Last reply by Fire604, -
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As you will find out, I am not afraid to ask questions if it assists me in getting closer to hearing my Z turn over for the first time. Some of you may have read in another section that I drained the coolant yesterday, flushed the radiator, and refilled with new. Not until I had put the new coolant in did I realize there was a hose or two that were leaking coolant straight out. Wish I would have plugged the system back up and filled with water to check for leaks, but aren't we all smarter looking back. Whether it be due to dry rotting, or whatever I do not care...I am just unsure what hoses I need to purchase. I have searched and found nothing so far. Here are pictu…
Last reply by Bojanglez280,
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