Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Have a '78 280z, all stock. The issue is this, when sitting still , I can rev the car to 3-4k with no issues or unusual sounds. However, when driving under load, if the RPM gets over about 3200 during acceleration, I get what sounds like either detonation or some type of valvetrain noise. It's very loud, and I am afraid to rev beyond this limit for fear of damage. Setting valve lash does no good, and it seems to have very little to do with timing, as I can increase or decrease timing with basically no effect. I am open to suggestions as to what it may be. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Last reply by travlnman, -
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do i need a higher octane fuel with this combo, or would it only be needed with n42 head about to buy parts need to know perth australia pistons new from 4cyn nissian pintara u.s.a. ? block L28 bore +30tho rings +60 tho my teck man in oz says it may ping or detonate without advanced timing and higher octane gas down under oz
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I'm buying a 1976 2+2 (California) next week. The seller says it has the original engine and trany. How can I verify if it really does (eg, how can you determine matching numbers on these cars). It has a 5 sp trany which I didn't think was available in 1976 models. If it turns out not to be the original trany, how can I determine if it came from a 1977 or 1978 or later ZX (I believe there was a difference in some of the gear ratios)? Thanks Gary
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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Just for kicks I ordered a set of NGK factory replacement wires from rockauto. Well they claim they are factory replacement. I wanted to see just how good/bad the current taylor pro wires I had on the car are. Well this was eye opening. I took off the number 1 spark plug and measured the resistance through the wire. THese are the results The 9 year old Taylor 8mm wires measured 0.788 kOhms The brand new NGK wires measured 5.65 kOhms The fact that the old taylors were 6 times less resistive was amazing. Never thought that would be the case... So I now have a spare set of wires if I ever need them. What I wonder now is if the car would run any different at all with the …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Ok so I'm having a couple of issues with my clutch. First of all, the car hasn't been put into gear with the car on for 15 years. Up until today I had no petal, no resistance. Then, today I drained all of the old fluid, replaced the master and bled the system. As of right now the petal goes about halfway in (due to free play where the pushrod connects to the top of the petal which is one issue) and then at the halfway point will not go any farther. It is rock solid. I was forcing it down to the floor but later discovered it was the petal bending that made it go all the way down and that the pushrod doesn't move. Has anyone else encountered this or am I just missing…
Last reply by austinnelson117, -
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I have just recently purchased a 1978 5 speed transmission and i have a 77 with a 4 speed, just wondering if this is a basic swap or will I need a new drive shaft etc..
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Is the 280Z stock air box filter less restrictive than an aftermarket cone intake? If you compare both filter styles, the stock filter seems to have as much surface area. Stock: Aftermarket cone: If you were to unroll the cone filter, it would seem to be the same size as the stock filter. The stock air box doesn't look that restrictive either: I was just wondering. I have the aftermarket cone intake, but was considering putting in a stock air box if there was no actual gains from having aftermarket.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I recently completed a compression check on my 1976 280z It's all original from what I was told when I bought the car... Engine Has 103xxx Miles on it... and the Last 3xxx I have driven. It hasn't had any major issues in the past that I am aware of, but I did have to reseal the fuel tank and clean out and replace a few fuel Injectors. Results: Cylinder Pressure ..............(Dry).....(Wet) 1 ... 130 ... 140 2 ... 120 ... 130 3 ... 80 ... 90 4 ... 110 ... 120 5 ... 120 ... 130 6 ... 110 ... 120 I don't Know what the pressure should be but, I'm pretty sure 80/90 on one cylinder isn't right. The car acce…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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The FSM says leave the transmission attached but I'm trying to do as much as I can by myself so I was thinking about removing the tranny first then the motor. Any advice will be appreciated.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I have a 1977 280z, with 5-speed transmission. Do I have a FS5W71A or a FS5W71B? I am getting mixed research results. According to an official Nissan Service manual for a 1977 280z, it says I have a FS5W71B. According to an eBay listing (and other online shops) for a 1977 280z transmission rebuild kit, it's listed for FS5W71A. Basically, I need a transmission rebuild kit, but can only find ones for FS5W71A, I'm having a hard time finding one for FS5W71B.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I took my head off tonight to do the HG and all was fine till I turned it over and found this in # 6......What do you guys think? Repairable?
Last reply by 5150 will, -
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Ok, I attempted to search here which is a better block to use and have come up with little information but some. My question is which block is the better block to use to build up, the N42 or F54 Block? As I have read they both see to be acceptable. Some say the N42 is better since there is more material left between cylinders when bored out. Other say the F54 since it take advantage of the extra strength of the siamese cylinders. I just want to simply utilize the best block to build up to a 3.1 because we all know that if your foundation is not solid then everything can come crumbling down or in this case go flying in a million directions. Thanks in advance for you input…
Last reply by newtonhubcap,
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