Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 16 replies
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I replaced my rear struts and refreshed my rear suspension in March and since the first test drive I have had a rear clunk. I did not have this clunk prior to replacing the rear struts. I replaced the struts with the rear diff installed but mustache bar removed. Not sure if that matters or not. Since then I have loosened and re-torqued all rear suspension bolts both jacked up and under load, front and rear differential supports and checked the U-Joints on the drive shaft and half-shafts. When I reinstalled everything I did not install a rear anti-sway bar that the PO had installed. I do not think that this could cause the clunk. Please correct me if I am wrong and I…
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
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- 4 replies
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Hi, I just had my 260 engine rebuilt. It is running like s**T. I did a poor mans compression test (finger over the spark plugs while cranking engine) and the # 5 seemed to have no compression. In any case the engine is under warranty and the company that rebuilt it seems to be rather clueless. I say this because they want to check the carbs as they think this may be the issue. Now I do not claim to be Mr. Goodwrench but my understanding of this engine leeds me to believe that if there is no compression or very weak compression it would either be the valves or the rings. Would someone please let me know if there could be other reasons besides the rings or valves or if I am…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 5 replies
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Hi I just replazced the clutch preasureplate and bearing on my 1974 260z. It now grabs very close to the top on the clutch pedal travel. How can I adjust the pedal so the clutch grabs a little closer to the floor Thanks Glenn
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 6 replies
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I have a 72 240z. When I bought it two years ago it had a rebuilt engine, performance cam, header, stock carbs. The problems I have are it tends to run hot, gets poor gas mileage and the power seems to stall at higher RPM and sounds like a jet at higher RPM (from the motor not the exhaust). It never misses or stumbles, it just stops accelerating. I have replaced the cam with a new stock cam. That quieted down and helped it run a bit cooler, but it still has the problems. The dwell is correct and the timing is correct. Both the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance are working. The rear carb is running a bit rich (black plugs on the back three) but the carb is adju…
Last reply by tlorber, -
- 8 replies
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At the risk of getting booed offstage, I'm going to ask the same question I've been asking in "points vs pertronix". With a lot of help from Arne I got my pertronix ignition working. It starts and runs much better and no longer backfires. However, when the engine gets warmed up, the problems start. Note that when I start out, it runs like a champ. I can rev all the way up to 6000 rpm without a hiccup, going uphill as fast as I can go, in all gears (keeping it under 80mph, mind you). But once that temperature guage gets near the half-way point, it starts having problems. It will hiccup and run poorly around 4000-5000 RPM. Usually when its warm and I pull into my ga…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 11 replies
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just peeked under my '72. it has 81-83ZX 5spd. noticed a tiny puddle of oil at the rear of the trans. is the rear seal replacable in-situ without a removal/rebuild of the whole trans? if so, any how-to tips would be appreciated. i did a trans gear oil change about 1000miles ago, checked for overfill, and it didn't leak at all since yesterday... thanks! ..must be the Brit car gods getting back at me on my post about Brit car vs. Z in Open Z car discussion
Last reply by cegrover, -
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I am refreshing the halfshafts from a 240z and would like to replace the 24 X 7/16" ball bearings. Would anyone know the hardness rating/grade of the originals? btw From my web searches it seems some halfshafts and drawings show 3 of the teflon/plastic spacers in each groove and others have only 2 spacers in each groove. My 71 240z halfshafts have 3 bearings and 2 spacers in each of the 4 grooves.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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My passenger side half shaft is very stiff. I pulled it apart cleaned it thoroughly and reassembled. It is still a little stiff but I do not get the travel I do with the drive side unit. I may have put too much grease into it. Are the half shafts usually stiff to slide or do they usually slide easily. Going to take it apart again now.
Last reply by Jeffrey, -
Pertronix vs Points 1 2 3 4 5
by StinkyCheese- 48 replies
- 11.2k views
I was having a problem with my Z cutting out at 4000 rpm so I came to these wonderful forums and did some searching. There are quite a few threads that say, "I just fixed this by installing a Pertronix electronic ignition". There are also quite a few that say, "install a dizzy from a 280z and that fixes it." That seemed like an easy solution, so I bought the Pertronix gear. I installed the Pertronix and it works great, but now my tach doesn't work! So back to the threads I go for more research. This is also a common problem for Pertronix igniters. It just seemed like I was trading one problem for another. :stupid: I kept reading several people saying, "points ignit…
Last reply by doradox, -
- 13 replies
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So....went to put the fly wheel from a 1981 280zx where the pressure plate for the auto 1974 260z was, and found that it doesn't fit over the crank hub like it does on the 280zx. The hub on the 260z is actually a half inch wider than the hub on the 280zx. Wtf? So if I bolted it up, it would sit about 1/4 inch farther out than it should be. How the heck does it work? Do I just bolt it up anyway or do I have to order the 260z flywheel (which doesn't seem to work since its 8 7/8 inch whereas the clutch is 9 1/2 inchg. HELP guys!
Last reply by kriminal, -
- 8 replies
- 4.5k views
I was going to buy some NGK B6ES-11 spark plugs but none of the local parts stores had them on-site. Searching around the internet I found that NAPA sells a "Standard Nickel 7910" for the application but doesn't list the B6ES-11 number. A little more Googling and I see that NGK.com has 7910 as stock number but B6ES-11 as the part number. This might be common knowledge but I thought it was interesting. Did "Standard Nickel" buy the NGK brand name? It's not clear to me what's going on here. https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=NGK7910_0275400672&An=599001+101979+50018+2018016 http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=7910&x=0&y=0
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 11 replies
- 2.4k views
Tried to search fo this problem but came up with nothing. When I went to install my new drive shaft ujoint this morning it was loose. What I mean is the cap was spinning in the whole instead of around the splines. I was replacing the ujoint because i noticed the old one doing the same thing. Does this mean my driveshaft is no good since the old ujoint caps spun in the wholes and bored them out a bit? Or would buying the more expensive spicer brand joints fix the issue? I just grabbed the only ones available at advanced auto fo 10 bucks.
Last reply by Co0kieduster,
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