Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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Bear with me guys. First Z-car, first engine swap, finished at midnight last night. Is the engine supposed to lean that far to the passenger side, or did I mix up the engine mounts?
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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- 12 replies
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Problem is that when car is stopped and engine running, i have to violently push the shifter if i want to move. When driving, it shifts quite ok. For example if i want to reverse, i have to turn the car off that i can change gears. I have bleeded clutch but it seems sloppy, clutch engages about 2 inches from the floor. Also i noticed that when i start with gear on (for example reverse) and clutch engaged, car moves a little. Do i have clutch related problem or is my gearbox going bad?
Last reply by Unkle, -
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My car has no balls, so I did a compression test. I only did a dry test, because I did not see a large deviation in numbers. Does anyone think I should do a wet test too? Here are my results on an engine at or close to operating temperature. From the firewall to the radiator fan as follows 150, 136, 149, 149, 134, 139. Thoughts?
Last reply by lalo, -
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Hey guys, i got this with a 280z i purchased and have no real use for it... I'm trying to find out the value / rarity of this diff. Nobody seems to know much about it, any info would be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by ollie, -
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I'm about to take the plunge and decarbonize with Sea Foam. I've gone to their website and they suggest pouring 1/3 to 1/2 of a can down the carb throat. Simple enough with a downdraft carb but I'm not sure how to do this with a dual side-draft setup. Posts here seem pretty straight forward about using it, but I'm not sure enough of my own knowledge to convince myself that I know exactly what to do. I'm going to layout my plan here and would appreciate any comments from those who have done it before to keep me on the right path. 1) Run car 15 - 20 miles as warm up. 2) Remove air cleaner. 3) (see attachment) Front of engine is on the right. I assume this is the balanc…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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I can't seem to find much info. Would it be better to have another oil pump on my 71 Z ( from a 280, etc. ) or is stock OK. thank you, timsz
Last reply by Arne, -
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How hard is it going to be to replace my valve seals with the cam still on? I searched google for this and did not come up with much. Doesn't someone make a tool to help you do this procedure?
Last reply by darom, -
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I have a 1975 280z with a four speed. When I bought it, the guy had a 5 speed as well that he gave me. It is an earlier wide ratio 5, but I'd still like to drop it in there to see if it's good. My brother, the pro mechanic, may pull it apart, just to see if the inside looks ok before we put it in. So, aside from the internals, is there other things I need to worry about? i.e.: - Do the 4 and 5 speeds use the same clutch and throw out? - same driveshaft and flange? - same tranny mount hardware? - I seem to have read a thread that suggests the shifter is a little long. Is that long on the top end, where I just cut an inch off the top, or is more finesse required? Is t…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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1974 260z. Swapping to 5spd manual from the auto 2 spd. Can I just unplug tranny cooler lines and leave the radiator with nothing attached to the tranny cooler part? Or do I have to swap radiators, too? Thanks! Justin
Last reply by Arne, -
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Hey guys I'm slowly moving along with my project I would like to know if there is a preferred sealant for the gaskets and threaded parts and is it necessary to use a sealant on freeze plugs? The guy at auto supply recommended - BLACK SILICONE adhesive sealant by Permatex for everything. Any other recommendations would be appreciated. THANKS.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Well, I decided to adjust my lifters today because the valvetrain was starting to get louder and power was off by the seat of my pants. I got to #4 exhaust and bumped it to put the lobe base on the rocker. As I looked closely I realized that the backside of the lobe was heavily wiped. It is/was a Crane cam with 272 lift. It sucks because I only needed the car running until after ZCON2011. I now have to make a decision. I can swap the hotter L28 out of my 280Z track car because it isn't street legal or being driven right now or I can swap out the worn camshaft with either a 'A' or 'B' cam I have in the garage or pull the camshaft out of the 280Z (specs unknown). If I choo…
Last reply by zKars, -
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I have a freashly rebuilt N42 head that I am planning on installing on my 240 block. I have seen a few posts explaining that the cylinder bore must be notched so the larger intake valve will clear it. Does anyone have any information or tips on the size and positioning of the notch to be made? Does the bore only need to be notched on the intake valve side or does the exhaust valve have a clearance problem as well? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Last reply by Diseazd,
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