Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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- 3 replies
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Hey all, so I recently switched the manual transmission from my 1978 280z to an automatic (which came from a '77.) Since the swap, the ignition doesn't seem to be working. I can turn the engine and hear a click coming from the engine, all the electronics come on, but it seems to not initiate the starter and turn the engine. After a few tries it eventually works, but I feels like it's getting worse and worse. Any suggestions or recommendations of where I should start looking to solve the problem? Thanks!
Last reply by tlorber, -
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I need to know what Datsun/Nissan calls their flat steel strips that reinforce the oil pan against the block. I cannot find anything about them in the manual. Looking for the technical name for these steel strips.
Last reply by sdelage, -
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hey guys so i just recently got my 75 280Z up and running, and actually drove it around some, needless to say, i'm stoked. the only problem is that the engine backfires any time i try to give it more than a little gas. if i press on the gas slightly, to allow the rpm's to creep up, it's fine, but any time i step on the gas with any real force, the engine sputters, backfires, and loses power. I've checked all my vacuum hoses, and there are no leaks. any idea what the problem could be? thanks in advance, Zach
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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not!
Last reply by d240zx2, -
R200
by johntlr1000- 9 replies
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Just bought a 78 280z 5 speed car. How can I tell if it has an r200? or did they all?
Last reply by spitz17, -
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Hello guys! First of all I am new to the forums here and after reading thru just a few posts I am looking forward to learning a great deal from all the knowledge that resides here. I am impressed already! Over the weekend I purchased a '76 280Z to go along with the '79 280ZX I have owned for 20 years. I bought the 280Z knowing that it has a very loud grinding/growling sound (grwow grwow grwow grwow for lack of a better way to describe it) that increases in frequency with increases in speed. This car had just shy of 21,000 original miles so it has spent much of its life sitting. I am hoping this sound is just wheel bearings that need replaced. Does this sound like a …
Last reply by Powderkeg, -
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Does anybody know where to find fittings to plug the holes in the balance tube after you remove the pollution gear? It appears that two plugs are M10 and the other is M14. I can't find metric plugs anywhere and nothing Imperial seems to coincide close enough to use. I'm sure some of you have done this, what did you use? Thanks, Best to all Bob
Last reply by beermanpete, -
I just purchased my 2nd Z, a 1977 280Z, and the po stated he could not get it started. Once getting it home, I removed the number one plug and cranked the engine until piston #1 was at TDC. In removing the distributor cap the rotor is pointing to approximately where #6 fires. I changed all the wires to match this and the engine started right up. I pulled the distributor thinking I could rotate it 180 degrees to get the firing order as stated in the FSM. The base of the distributor is not 'centered' therefore it will only fit one way. Does this mean that the timing chain is off 180 degrees or am I missing something? Could I leave it as is? Thanks for any ideas!
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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i am tackling my leaking rear main tomorrow. and i looked at my new rear main seal set. but i'm stumped as what the flat rubber keyway looking things are. there are two of them, and they have a matching pair of thin metal pieces as well. can someone clear this up for me?
Last reply by jaydatsun240z, -
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Hi guys, I'd like to do a mild but fun L28 street build which would entail a combination of a flat-top-piston L28 block and a milled P90 head to get an even 10:1 compression ratio. There will be a cam upgrade as well, but that's not relevant to my questions. Here goes: 1) Aiming for a streetable 10:1 engine means that spending $800 on a set of forged pistons is kinda nuts. Are there suppliers out there for new OEM cast pistons or maybe an aftermarket supplier that someone has tried? Z Car Source, for example, has a reasonably priced piston/pin/ring set that's listed as "new aftermarket" and can even offer a few different oversizes. Anyone have experience in this area…
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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I had the usual problem with a stuck diff plug and, later, the same on a transmission plug. I ordered the correct square 13mm socket from the site below and, with a breaker bar, found it to be very easy to get the plug out. http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx The site says it's for R160 and R180 diffs, but it fit my R200 perfectly. I'm now going to get one of these for that stubborn trans fill plug, which is showing signs of getting rounded... http://ultimatetoolco.com/ktc17mmsocket.aspx These aren't cheap, but it's nice to have something fit perfectly (vs. a 1/2" ratchet or bar) and not round the plug. FYI: It's not my site and I don't know the owner! :-)
Last reply by cegrover, -
I finally got a chance to pull the slipping clutch in my 240z and I am quite suprised by what I found. I am not sure why it was slipping. The free play was set fine, there were no problems with shifting at all, and it appears that I have the proper clutch collar. According to Zparts.com it is a type b 5 speed collar with a old release bearing. The clutch friction material matches to the flywheel as well. Just to get everything out there, I am using a new non-adjustable slave and a type b clutch fork. The previous owner put the clutch in so I am unware of the brand, but appears to have a ton of friction material. The only problem I had with the tranny is 5th gear pops ou…
Last reply by hogie,
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