Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
-
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Had some spare time on my hands so I thought I'd take apart, then weld up, a spare R180, 4.375 differential that has been sitting around my garage for some time. What I found inside was strange to me. The guts of this diff are much heavier than any I've ever seen. They include a two piece gear case and lots of extra bolts to mount the ring gear. Take a look at the pics. What gives? Is this still a useful R180 for my 240Z?
Last reply by jmortensen, -
-
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
Hello everybody, This time I really need an advice from 280Z gurus. Is there any gaskets between hydraulic chain tensioner and engine block? It is an enigma for me. Nissan dealer don't have and is not even specified in there data base. Nobody has it. I bought a Kit and does not have it. Please help. Thank you
Last reply by cmiulius, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
Can anyone recommend a machine shop in the Temecula, Calif area? I am about to pull the engine from my 1970 Z for a rebuild. Mike
Last reply by mbarjbar, -
- 18 replies
- 6k views
How do I get the new boot on? Does the plastic end piece screw off the rod? If not does the bood slip over the plastic end piece?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 10 replies
- 2.3k views
I'm getting a rumbling grinding noise from the drivers side rear end. I thought it might be rear wheel bearings so I put in new ones. Car is back together and the noise is still there. I think it is coming from the differential.. My car is a stock 72 Z. Any thoughts on repairing. Is it difficult to change the rear end? I have changed the fuild and it did not make a difference.
Last reply by manny1973, -
- 12 replies
- 7.4k views
I picked up a used Nissan Comp R200 LSD yesterday, but I can not seem to get the rear cover off it. I removed the eight bolts that should hold the cover on and tried pounding it with a heavy rubber mallet, but the cover won't come off. I even tried putting the mustache bar on it and wacking that, but it didn't help. I also tried using a razor blade to cut the edge around the gasket. That didn't have much effect either. It looks like there is a small notch on one of the bottom corners that I may be able to insert something to pry it with, but I am afraid if I do that the aluminum cover will be damaged. I sprayed the edges of the gasket with some kroil hoping that mig…
Last reply by Mike B, -
- 11 replies
- 2.2k views
I had a thread going in the "Help Me" section, but felt it appropriate to move it over here… Here is the dilemma: My car starts and will move and all that. On start up or whenever I depress the accelerator, I get next to no power. The best way I can describe it is by saying that when I press the accelerator the car makes a sputtering sound, like its about to stall. It doesn't go away if I give it some gas and just try to ride it out. This problem has been haunting me for a few weeks now. Here is what I have done as far as trying to diagnose/treat the problem… EFI troubleshooting for "lack of power" Checked and adjusted timing Checked/tested vacuum advance and replaced its…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Getting ready to replace my clutch; I have no service history for my '73 240Z and have no idea what shape the flywheel will be in. The only flywheels I can find are lightweight aluminum flywheels intended for racing - MSA hasn't had availability for stock flywheels since 1997, and Black Dragon only has the aluminum flywheel. My car is a daily driver driven in lots of stop & go traffic - it is my understanding that light flywheels make feathering a clutch much more difficult, and I don't feel like stalling my car in highway traffic <g>. Does anyone make / stock stock flywheels any longer?
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
- 1 reply
- 973 views
I believe they changed the sender after series one, but I can only find one (later) type in parts listings and on ebay. Mine appears to be leaking oil and I want to put a new one in,and it has been reading very high lately as well. I wonder if there would any issues other than perhaps a slightly different reading on the guage, with a later sender?
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
I recently bought a short block from a private seller (he said it was from a 72 240Z). You can't have too many spare parts right? I didn't even unwrap it till today. I noticed it looked like factory notching of the exhaust valves on the block, so I assumed it was an L26......right? Wrong......upon closer examination, the serial numbers do read L24, but the number is 321,302!!! I thought the L24 Z engines stopped at 172,732. What in Hell is this motor? Guy
Last reply by ozconnection, -
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi there guys, I was wondering if somebody ever convert a 1976 280z from automatic to manual transmission. How hard that can be? I would love to get any tips on this.
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 12 replies
- 2.4k views
I have a 71 Z that I have restored , painted etc. The problem is in getting the adjustable rod slave cylinder bled. The rod on the slave moves the fork on the tranny and the pedal feel is firm until I put the spring on the slave. The pedal feel then is way easy to push in. I have a Phoenix Reverse flow bleeder that worked great on doing this same job on my 77 Z. I had gotten frustrated before trying to get the adjustable rod slave to work and ended up putting a slave for the 77 on the 71. I used the rod from the adjustable slave , but my only concern was how far out to set the rod against the tranny fork. The car shifted fine, but in neutral I could hear a little noise. I…
Last reply by skyrit,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
