Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I was getting ready to swap a 3.90 r200 rear end into my late '72 240z (Also installing a "ZXb" 5-speed 0.745 5th gear) and ran into a snag. While I got the 280z side flange shafts that work with the 240 half shafts, I did not realize that my r200 had the wrong pinion drive flange. My r200 has the rectangular flange with the 2" pilot and 2.94" bolt circle. The one I need is the 2.2" pilot with the 2.75" bolt circle. Question is, if I can find the correct companion flange, how hard is it to change? I ask this because I am concerned about the thrust washers behind this flange and want to know if there is any special requirement to make sure the pinion depth is not disturbed…
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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Looking for an automatic flywheel/flexplate for a L series engine. Needs to be 6 bolt flange. PM me your asking price including shipping to 95023. Thanks, Mark
Last reply by datsunrides, -
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Let us know your tips and tricks to reading a properly air/fuel mix spark plug. Be sure to state your cars manufacturing date, engine type, and what type of fuel supply you are running. I would have to guess that carb'd cars vs fuel injected cars would have different looking plugs. I am really looking for a perfect color'd plugs with '72 carbs - show us what you've got and how you read them. http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html
Last reply by doradox, -
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I think that the head gasket on my 240 has let go. Last weekend it was running rough and smelled like it was running rich, and since there was a club event this weekend I tried to "touch up" the SUs. I didn't have time to test drive it afterward but it sounded good at idle. Thursday morning I started to drive it to work so that I could take it to the club meeting that evening and it was running worse. I limped it home and spent that night doing a full tune-up and mixture adjustment. (I took the SUs all the way back to fully closed and did a full by the video adjustment.) When I pulled the plugs, number 1 and 2 were covered in oil. As I was adjusting the carburetors I no…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Long time reader, first time poster. My 1972 240z cranks easily and when cold starting with the choke I get no backfiring. After the Z warms up I get the backfiring on high revs when i release the pedal. Also, I get a chirping sound that worries me like the valves rattling after it warms up. Is this probably all related to timing and SU carb adjustment? I ordered the flow meter today and will try to balance the carbs better. The car had a slight smoke out the tailpipe but comes and goes. I was going up an incline the other day and it sounded like the valves were about to jump out the motor. Love the car and tinkering with it, but as far as mechanical reasoning I ha…
Last reply by yellowhammerjam, -
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When I opened up my timing chain cover I found a chewed up block of wood. I think it's pine.:paranoid: I'm guessing this is the remnants of a DIY timing chain wedge. Apparently a 240Z does not make a good chain saw.
Last reply by Z train, -
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Is the pedal box on a 73 240Z automatic transmission car the same as on a manual transmission car? In other words, can I just bolt the 2 pedals from the manual pedal box into the automatic pedal box, attach the springs and stops and bushings and proceed from there?
Last reply by consemated, -
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Mine is a 71 Z with a L28 lower end and an E88 head. My problem is low speed driveability. That is, it has a moderate "surge" when trying to maintain a speed. For example, if you try to hold 3000 RPM in third gear, you will feel a surge back and forth which makes it uncomfortable. If you accelerate, it runs very well all the way up the RPM range. Things I have done .... New Dist. cap and rotor, new plugs and plug wires, new points, timing and dwell adjusted, new fuel filter, cleaned and adjusted, and balanced SUs, set valves cold. Plugs are whitish and clean, no soot or fouling. Car runs very well during acceleration at all RPMs in all gears. It is just not quite…
Last reply by JohnB, -
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Its always one more thing with this beast! Took the flywheel into the machinist today to be checked before I install it because I saw a couple of small cracks in the surface and he said it would be fine if I didn't mind my foot being blown off when it exploded. (I actually know a guy this happened to) So now I'm looking for a flywheel for an L28. My question is are the 240/260/280 flywheels inter-changeable? Or do I have to identify a specific one and if so how? MSA only carries new competition but no stock. Thanks All, H Houghton
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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I just installed the Semi-Solid Urethane mounts in my mildly built 240z. It is tuned at 140 hp to the wheels with the l24, Cam, high compression head, headers, and SU carbs. It was rebuilt and able to withstand high RPM's, 7,000-8,000 range. I primarily use this car for Autocross, Gymkhana, Off-road Rally Racing that is Sanctioned by San Diego Club Racing and it is comfortable and reliable enough to drive to work. I drive Highland Vally Road (an extremely tight & winding mountain road) every day to work, so I tear apart stock mounts and go through sets of tires and brakes every 3-5 months on average. I have been looking for a set of Urethane mounts for my car for m…
Last reply by subtle_driver, -
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Thought I would put this out there for future searchers who are hearing noise from the vicinity of the water pump. Check your AC idler pulley first, if you have one. The external heater core to engine hose sprung a leak on my 1976 280Z and sprayed half of the coolant out as I drove home one night. I replaced the hose, refilled with coolant, then soon after (days), I started hearing what sounded like bad bearings from the front of the engine. I thought for sure that my water pump bearings had cooked themselves after the hose had burst. But before I got too deep in to it, I remembered that my AC idler pulley had made some noise in the past, fixed at the time (apparently …
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I'm currently having a long cranking issue with my 1977 280Z. On a cold start I have to try to start it 5 or 6 times sometimes before it starts. Sometimes it starts for a second (goes to about 500 rpm) and then dies. I have replaced the spark plugs (properly gapped), rotor, fuel filter (twice in 700 miles), distributor cover, plug wires (NGK), and properly set the air gap. The weird part is sometimes when I started it again just a couple hours after driving it, it starts immediately. My timing needs to be adjusted somewhat though. Any advice for me getting it to start up more consistently? Thanks in advance, Alex
Last reply by 503Alex,
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