Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I was going over some options on how to get as much HP out of the L28. What kind of modifications to the L28 can be made without major engine work or overhaul (such as boring the engine or replacing it). Would anyone here suggest putting in an exhaust turbo or intercooler for the L28; or would this just be a waste of time? The stock L28 hp says 170hp at 5400rpm; and I was curious if this engine could push more than that? I like the idea of getting as much power out of the L28 as possible; and even considered throwing a 280zx turbo in my car; although I would prefer to keep it stock, and see how much I can squeeze out of the stock hardware (engine/trans).
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Okay, who's hoarding all the yellow 240Z 16 tooth speedometer pinion gears? No problem getting the 17 through 20's, but not the original yellow one. 🤔 Found one from another guy in town, but it's teeth didn't look so good. Using it anyway. Ken
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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This video showed up in my YouTube feed. I can see a variation of this working to fill the differential or transmission while under the car.
Last reply by Freez74, -
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Hey guys! Just a theoretical question here. I can't find really anything online about z owners who are running the 260s comp cam on their L28e or Z for the matter. So I figured I'd ask if anyone has, or knows anyone who has, used this cam on their Z. Does it make any noticeable difference in hp or torque? Is it able to be used with a stock 280z EFI system? Would you recommend it for someone trying to find just a slight bump in power? Really just trying to start a conversation of what your thoughts are about this cam. Here is a link to the cam I am talking about. https://zcardepot.com/products/performance-camshaft-comp-racing-cam-240z-260z-280z
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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I don't know much about the history of my motor except, that the numbers match & seems to run really well. A quick check of my compression with a cheap (auto parts store tester) revealed: 130 x all 6 cyls. (Actually 1 cyl was about 128). The odometer reads 109,k I'm assuming the motor was rebuilt at some point but don't really know. Are these compression readings acceptable for a stock motor?
Last reply by Wally, -
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One of the issues I constantly deal with during a restoration is a gummed up fuel system. Not unusual that it ends up with new hard lines and/or a new fuel tank when things are just too far gone. I try to restore the existing lines and tank when ever possible, but it can be a time consuming and often fruitless endeavor in the end. Yesterday I came up with a new method that allowed me to save both a tank and the main fuel line from replacement. Sometimes it’s rust in the tank, sometimes it’s old fuel that has turned to solid or semi solid black tar or even hard crystals mixed with that tar. In yesterdays case, it was semi solid black tar. I have 11292…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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when i'm reinstalling my fuel pump after rebuild is there a need to go over or under a cam in the block or do you push it straight in. i'm asking because it's not feeding fuel to the carbs and i don't believe that the pump valves are installed incorrectly. any help is appreciated.
Last reply by swflaz, -
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Ok, working on another early Z today and find the worst case of crooked engine mount I’ve ever seen. Mostly I want to know if any one else has noticed this and actually found the reason. I’ve seen it on several cars, all “early”. 70-71. Yes I know they vastly strengthened the later ones, maybe starting in 74 with bracing across or between the two side pieces, so it must have been noticed by Nissan. Feels like its in the time line of the early cars that had the diffs mounted too far forward, I suppose with age, the bushings in the diff and trans all get weak and the engine tends to move forward. But this one is bad. Mind you the rust on this one is pr…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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The radiator cap of the Champion 3 row radiator is really worn. Would this 16lbs Stant Cap work and help lowering the temperature? https://www.amazon.com/Stant-10230-Radiator-Cap/dp/B000B8LKVY/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Stant+radiator+cap&qid=1634738898&qsid=135-7717209-6316309&sr=8-2&sres=B000B8LKZ0%2CB000B8LKVY%2CB000B8N3G4%2CB000C846LY%2CB00180JSSQ%2CB000B8LKYQ%2CB000E3ZLM0%2CB00180JSP4%2CB000C8227E%2CB000B8JUGQ%2CB000C808SE%2CB000B8JUG6%2CB000B8N3GE%2CB000B8N3J6%2CB000C808T8%2CB000C8224M&srpt=ENGINE_COMPONENT_CAP The one that my radiator currently carries is labeled 1.1
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I ran a compression check of the L28 engine and found that it ranged from 125-145 psi. The manual indicates a compression ratio of 8.3:1, but I could not find anywhere what the psi value should be. Is what I found with my compression gauge normal or is it low?
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
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if anyone has a lead, pm me. it's for the early a type 5 speed 240z with the 3,90 diff. only thing i am missing is the driveshaft ( i'm not talking about the half shafts ! ). its bolted on 2 sides with the slide piece in the middle. Bart
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
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Came across this guy's youtube channel and he seems to know his stuff. There are other good videos but here's a general one that might be worth watching.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy,
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