Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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Hi all, I could use your advice. I just measured my temperature sensor resistance, and it's rather high. Moreover someone apparently "fixed" a fuel/air ratio problem by wiring a resistor in series with the sensor, so that the computer will only see the engine warming up to maybe 120F. Anyway, I presume I should straighten out the wiring and replace the sensor. Fuel/air ratio adjustments can be made at the AFM later. So I'm wondering first how this thing can be removed. Is it possible to slip a deep socket over it, or must it be turned with an open-end wrench? If the latter, do I remove the distributor to get enough working room? Or do I have to remove the thermosta…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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It has been a long year mystery for me... For building a 3.1 or 3.2 stroker, is it better using the F54 block or N42? Almost every article I read in English says, the F54 is the best choice when building the stroker." But, what I hear in Japan (yes, my native language.) is totally the opposite. They say, "If you're going to bore 89mm or more, then the N42 is your best bet, especially if you were building it for drag racing. The largest bore you can go safely with the F54 is 88mm." That seems to be the common understanding among the L engine tuners in Japan. More interesting to note, they say that some early production of the N42 up to the certain lot number came with t…
Last reply by Tak510, -
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I've noticed that many of you have stated that an all aluminum radiator needs to be isolated from the radiator support to prevent galvanic corrosion. I've purchased a direct fit aluminum radiator (similar to what MSA sells), and I would like to see how some of you have mounted your radiators so that it's not grounded directly to the radiator support. I've seen mention of plastic sleeves and rubber and I would also be interested in knowing where these can be purchased. Thank you,
Last reply by hogie, -
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I am not really new to working on cars since I have over 45 years of working on cars under my belt. Many years ago I used a volt meter to test antifreeze but for some reason I stopped and never used the test again. Below is some info I grabbed off Google about it. What I am looking for are some test results from you guys on your Z's and whatever else you have to test. I tested a S15 JIMMI I have and it was high as was my 71Z. I think my Z has a ground issue that is causing the high reading. The JIMMI was dead antifreeze but the high reading is what I think caused a freeze plug to leak and the steel back plate of the water pump to leak. This weekend I will tackle the Z to …
Last reply by Maples71240Z, -
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I'm getting ready to do a swap on my 73 automatic to a 4 speed transmission. Does anyone know if the driveshaft for the automatic and 4 speed are the same? If this is covered in another thread, please let me know as I couldn't find one. Thanks Guy
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I know I'm missing this somewhere but what is the Tranny type numbers for a 77 280Z 4spd and 5spd and also for the 81-83 280ZX? I know there they are Type B transmission but dont know what number designations they had or part numbers they were called like " FWxxxB " or what ever for example. 1977 Type B 4 speed Fxxxxx 1977 Type B 5 speed Fxxxxx 1981-83 Type B 4 speed Fxxxxx 1981-83 Type B 5 speed Fxxxxx What are the x numbers? Need to know to see if Custom gear ratios can be made. Thyanx ~Z~
Last reply by tlorber, -
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Mine is a 78 280Z. It had a 4 speed tranny when my friend bought it a year ago. He replaced that with a 5-speed. When I bought it from him in Feb I replaced all fluids, including the transmission and differential fluid. The a/c went out in June, so I started driving with the windows down. It was then I noticed a lot of transmission whine, especially when I am by some barrier like fence or wall. It quits if I disengage the clutch and just coast. It drives and shifts fine, even at different speeds. Have I got a problem, or is this just a noisy transmission? Davey G
Last reply by Davey G, -
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My car hasn't been driven very much since I bought it last November..maybe 6 times total for less than 5 miles each time. It's been driven once in the last six months...about a one mile drive. The previous owner rarely drove it. I did a cold compression test today. I figured this engine had high compression pistons but the piston, cam, and any other specs were known only to the original owner who is unfortunately no longer with us. Well, it has high compression on 4 cylinders . I'm not sure what to make of the results. Too much sitting up or sticky valves or both. Rings? Any thoughts? 1-185 2-200 3-100 4-195 5-185 6-115 I tried 3 and 6 again after a couple squi…
Last reply by Mikez73, -
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I want to start a thread where members give one step performance improvements that gave them an economical boost in HP..... Like..... has anyone added L28 valves to an L24 E31 or E88 and put the stock engine back together and reported on that mod improvement alone. That would be a real easy and economical mod that would put L28 type flow with the shorter stroke L24 block. I would be interested in that result........or maybe someone just put an European rapid advance distributor......nothing else. How did that help. What else?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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Any thoughts on or experience on this brand of rod. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/connecting-rods-Datsun-L24-conrods-/350033555975?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item517fa03207 I see they really come out of china but would they bother making a sub quality or knock off for such a small market. Not sure whether to chance it if I'm spending $5000+ on my motor rebuild?
Last reply by HKSZ, -
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Question to the Group – I am getting ready for an engine/head rebuild - Here is what I am planning on doing – any suggestions? I am wanting to keep it basic and nothing too wild. I am going to be sending the car off to the body to have the engine bay detailed and repainted. The engine will be painted the correct Datsun Blue. This is my first rebuild and my buddy that is a ASE Certified Master Mechanic will be handling this project for me. I am not underestimating his skill level, but I know there is a lot of knowledge with our membership and would like to hear your recommendation. I only plan on having this engine out one time and want to get it right. Share y…
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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I have a 76' 280Z, with the original L28Ein it, it recently failed smog, for running extremely rich. Not only that but it started giving me more problems once I got it back from the smog shop. On the way home from smog the oil pressure was very low, I want to say around 15 Psi, oil level is fine though. It was checked the next morning after it had been sitting all night long, and currently if I drive it around the Psi level is normal. The next thing though is it smokes a lot if you rev it at all, or under normal driving conditions. Around 2500+ RPM. The smoke is white in color. It will also shoot black "soot" which I can only assume is carbon build up from inside the moto…
Last reply by Indey,
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