Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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I'm in the progress of installing a ZX dizzy, the dizzy doesen't really match up, with cyl #1, after investegating it a bit, i have found that there is two different kind of dizzy base for a ZX dizzy,, witch one will be the correct to use ? Chris
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
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I'm in central VA, in case that makes it more convenient (but am happy to ship the head), and I am looking for an engine builder/shop to do a general check of valve and guide wear and a to perform a quality valve job. The head was originally redone by the guy that did most of Malvern Racing's machine shop work. It has Manley stainless valves (1mm larger intake) and hardened seats already. I've spent a bunch of time over the winter modifying the combustion chambers and porting it and a tripple manifold in preparation for putting in a high lift/duration cam and tripple mikuni's. So, the work I'm looking to have done is likely just a valve job and possibly the cam instal…
Last reply by inline6, -
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Long waited braided radiator hose kit finally available from us It was very expensive and hard process to make them just like original ones. These will be also available from limited suppliers shortly . MSA will be one. It looks and feels like original with high quality rubber and material. It is made by one of Nissan's supplier in Japan. It looks just like Genuine Nissan original braided hoses that are no longer available for a long time. New Old Stock hoses are not as reliable anyway. It fits 1969-1973 240Z It is only sold as a set only this time. (*Upper hoses fit all 260Z and 280Z cars.) Opening special price at $159 including shipping for US main island. $25…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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I got my car running after changing ballast resistor. It starts up nicely like under palm tree. Actually when little warm, it starts better than my daily driver Anyways, i started the engine and let it run for 5 or so minutes, i checked the gauges and heat was almost at the red bar so i instantly turned it off. It roared a bit after i turned it off, almost like it was starting by itself. There was no unusual smoke, no leaking of water. I removed thermostat and gonna change that first. Any other reason why it might have overheated?
Last reply by Reverend, -
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I wasn't sure where to post this, but it's engine-related so I'll start here. My question is in relation to where the vacuum that creates the advance in the distributor (among other things the car uses it for) is really made. It stands to reason that it's the pistons creating the physical vacuum during their intake strokes and that vacuum is translated through the intake manifolds as air flows to fill that vacuum. Yes? If it turns out I'm wrong already, someone please correct me. Anyway, with the pistons generating a vacuum, does it also stand to reason that installing an oversize block (a 2.8 in place of a 2.4, for example) can offset the function of the devices th…
Last reply by soundmasterg, -
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I have been searching and trying to find out what this device is... I have looked through online tech info and my FSM and EFI bible, and I can't figure it out.. what ever it is, its not connected to anything... its the object on the left that has a wire going to it and is a cylinder type shape...
Last reply by 77-Z, -
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I've got a stock 1973 240Z on which I have recently changed: 1. Z therapy carbs 2. plugs, wires, pertronix, coil, cap, roter 3. electric fuel pump (RX7) 4. fuel lines 5. aluminum radiator 6. fan and fan clutch 7. AC system The car runs great when it's 75°F or less outside but as soon as it gets into the 80's bad things happen. 1. The car idles rough and hesitates on acceleration. 2. The temperature gauge starts moving towards the red zone. 3. The reading on my fuel pressure gauge (installed inline just before the mechanical fuel pump) starts to pulsate and eventually goes to zero. I have a new fan shroud sitting on my bench, to be installed when I …
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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I have snatched some very good pictures of the intake manifold that I have had on my car since '76-'77. I bought it new from Bap Geon and my receipt does not have the name on it! I have no intention of replacing it or my DCOE40's. Please post if you have any history or knowledge on this intake manifold! I have also created a thread over on hybridz. I have a link to the thread which includes the pictures here: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90299-please-id-this-weber-intake-manifold/
Last reply by oldhemi, -
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I've got tranny fluid leaking from the area where the front of the driveshaft slides into the rear of the tranny. Anyone have a solution to this problem or know of any previous posts dealing with this? I assume it's probably a seal of some sort. Thanks Guy
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I have just realized I don't have a hole for the fuel pump (boss is there) on my N47 head. I will pull the head and take out the cast aluminum, is there anything particular I need to do or look out for? Thanks, Leonard
Last reply by Arne, -
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Anybody know the correct igintion timing for a 280zx turbo
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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Well i work with guy who is a certified machinist/car lover and he used to work with all these high temp materials. And he was tellin me about a throttle body and plenum spacer he made for Chevy big block with this crank and that differential and this shifter u kno everything muscle guys like to name. He said those spacers got him about 2 tenths off his quarter mile because the engine air was much cooler with these high temp seals....well blah blah i asked him what would he need to make me one for the 280....he said get me gasket and ill make you one for 15 bucks. I said you got it. i mean fifteen bucks thats it. He told me when gets it done and he'll bring it to me at wo…
Last reply by JayBee280,
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