Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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Hey guys. This past weekend I installed a new timing chain kit on my Z. As I'm going to run the valves this weekend and have the valve cover off I would like to reassure myself I did it right. First off I used the #2 hole in the cam gear to set the chain. This was the way it was when I took the old one off. Is that OK to do. Timing at the moment is 12@1000 RPM (idle). Secondly I have two manuals that have two different torque readings on the cam gear. The FSM says 90-100 ft lbs while the Haynes manual says 40 ft lbs. Which one is right? I set it to 40 ft lbs as the 100 just didn't seem like the right number to me. Thank guys Jan
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I believe my distributor is off a gear. I adjusted my timing and had to go all the way past the adjustment hole to get it timed right. There are two timing adjustments and they are both adjusted as far advanced as they can go. I removed the distributor and found that it has a key way and cannot skip a gear. Any ideas? Is there a gear below that may be off a gear? If so, Is it a problem? the Z runs great now that I adjusted it. If its a problem, How do I fix it? Help Please. Chris
Last reply by 73 240Z Man, -
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I bought a new ignition key switch and now i noticed there is 2 screws that have no screw slots. Anybody know how to remove them?
Last reply by ArnieTX, -
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This is going to be fun... I just got this rolled '94 Pathfinder as a donor to make my parts car a four-wheel drive 240Z. My parts car is a 1971 but let me assure you that I am not destroying a perfect 240Z. It is a RUST BUCKET. The Pathfinder has a 3.0L V6 with EFI and 106,000 miles on it. I read that it has the same engine as the 300ZX (non-turbo) but it is a less "sportier" version and more aimed for low-end torque due to the cam. Is this true? I am not going to pay attention to much detail on this project as it is going to be a beater 4x4 that I can have some fun in. If anyone else has done something like this I would love your advice/input. Any other comment…
Last reply by 1970Datsun240z, -
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Hi All: Hoping for a little advice here. My 1978 280Z runs fine but when driving it if I allow the RPMs to get too high the car starts to hesitate and almost feels like it is bucking. Even when parked if the RPMs are allowed to get about 2,500-3,000 it hesitates and the RPMs drop despite my foot still being on the gas and there is a clear hesitation. Here is what I have done so far: Fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank, new wires, rotor, distributor cap, and checked spark plugs. Anyone experience this before or have any suggestions? Thanks!
Last reply by JoelZ, -
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Does anyone by any chance have one of these? Its for a 75 280 & the part number is 14055-N4200. Its a water by-pass hose that goes from the thermostat housing and to a pipe and then to a water inlet right in front of the head. Its an L shape and has 2 different size ends. Its the one on the right facing the engine. Bryan
Last reply by webdawg1, -
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Ok, after getting the suspension redone (fabulous) I am noticing a thin bluish-white smoke coming from the exhaust when accelerating (friend was driving with me following). Also when decelerating there is a small backfire/fart sound. The tailpipe also looks oily/sooty. It runs/idles well. What's going on?
Last reply by Davey G, -
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I have an oil leak that I have pinned down to the side seals on rear bearing cap (L24). The engine was recently professional rebuilt. I pulled the pan off a couple of weeks ago and pulled the side seals out. They slid right out they where slightly smaller than the new nissan parts I had. I used CRC brake cleaner and pipe cleaners to clean the oil out of the slots. Then inserted the new seals with RTV silicone sealant, then put the pan back with a new Felpro gasket and spot of slicone at each of the bearing cap/block joints Let it sit for day. Then put the oil in and took it for a drive and I discovered the leak was reduced I would guess by 70%. Just few drops on t…
Last reply by zark, -
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Hey guys, new to the forum here. I have a 72 Datsun 240z with the l28et swap out of I believe and 82 280. my current setup is megasquirt fuel/spark management 240sx throttle body 1 inch throttle body spacer high performance coil pack 4 row MSA racing radiator and electric fan t3/t4 garrett turbo manual boost controler custom 3 inch downpipe 3 inch straight threw exhaust fmic greddy bov centerforce df clutch rci fuel cell msd external fuel pump r200 with cv axel swap and nismo 2 way gtlsd with a 3.59 gear my question is what is a safe/good amount of boost to run? I have heard on the stock turbo 10-12psi in max but I have the t3/t4 hybrid turbo. The reason I ask is last nig…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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I did buy me a 1973 Z and there is a camshaft markt CWC and EP 40 and some other numbers like B4,C2,D2 Anyone nows what kind of cam it is In duration ??
Last reply by linnefell, -
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So mine took a dump! and the cam got a little wear on it! it was a nice C datsun comp cam! IS there any upgrade for the oiler tube? or do I just have to replace or get a a self lubing cam?
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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So it was discovered upon beginning repair of a leaking exhaust manifold gasket that my '72 has an old aftermarket header on it. It's a 6-2-1 so it's got two 3-bolt flanges where the header meets the 2-1 collector and that's where it was leaking. Neither the shop nor I have any idea what brand it is, but it has (plugged) air injection ports at the cylinder head flange end, so whatever type it is it was a legit aftermarket replacement. Anyone dare to venture a guess as to what brand it may have been or how old it is? Doesn't matter, I'm just curious.
Last reply by Arne,
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