Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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So I found a 73 240z for sale in Oceanside that's been for sale for quite a while becuz in my opinion the seller is asking too much. I talked to him today, got some good information. I'll put the link below. Here's the scoop: - 3 liter stroker made from an L28 block with ported E88 head and a hot cam. - 5-speed transmission out of an early 80's 300ZX turbo - R200 LSD http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/1604300964.html All of this information is at his word. Obviously one cannot pull the head off the engine to look, but are there ways to visually tell if the diff and other things are legit? The seller is pretty fixed on getting his asking price for the car despite a…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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On the S30's there is a bracket welded to the firewall that contains a spindle (pivot point) for the first of the many moving parts in the throttle linkage. This spindle has 2 bushings similar in shape to the ones that the shifter lever connects to the tranny with (totally different size though). The bushings are plastic, and in my case, they allow quite a bit of slop as the accelerator is moved. Has anyone ever rebushed these? I'd like to find either a final bushing or one I could use as a starting point and grind/mill down the the correct dimensions. Also, I'd prefer metal over plastic. Thanks.
Last reply by tlorber, -
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Radiator had a leak so I pulled it and am taking it to be boiled out and fixed. While it's out, are there other things I should consider addressing? Car has sat for about 6 years. I am doing new hoses and thermostat. Belts? Other? All feedback appreciated. Thanks. Jeff
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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Have any of you guys ever disassembled a throttle body from a 75. I'm talkin about completely! I need to take one apart as far as possible without getting it out of adjustment in order to completely clean and cosmetically restore it to better than new condition. Any ideas/suggestions? Thanks Bryan
Last reply by LBO730, -
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I fabbed up a crude snubber for the front of my R-200 differential, since I knew that the diff mount was showing signs of end-of-life (visible debonding when pried on with a screwdriver off the car), and found that it eliminated a bad clutch chatter problem that I was having. I assume that the weakening original rubber diff mount was allowing the front of the diff to bounce up and down at low acceleration levels, causing the clutch to stick and slip, ie chatter. Just putting this out there for anyone that may be having a clutch chatter problem. Something to look at. My clutch and pressure plate are brand-new, properly installed and broken in, but still chattered if I t…
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
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I have a 1974 everything is stock but the dual webbers. I found a good deal on some so I only have the adapters and carbs. The thing I am needing is the throttle linkage. Do I need to buy one. Or will the stock work and i'm just an idiot and can't hook it up right. And if I need to buy one then where from. I have searched the net all day and can't find just the throttle linkage. And just if I did not explain good enough. I need to hook up my dual webbers to the gas pedal. Thanks
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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I recently swap r180 to r200 3.54 for street/freeway daily driving..but still using 4 spd..My 240Z slightly modded L24/N42 head w/280 valves..etc., big cam, 6 to 1 header, and Z therapy SU..which tranny is best suited with this setup before a I buy a 5spd..is it 77-80 Z tranny (wide ratio) or 81-83 ZX (close ratio)?
Last reply by jbuenviaje, -
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Well, I talked to the guy who is changing out the u-joints for me. I was thinking about doing it myself, but I didn't feel like torquing on bolts with the car on jackstands. (A scissor lift is in my future, I hope.) I guess I should have at least taken time to inspect the driveshaft. He found two bolts missing and another was finger tight. VERY bad on me. I should have taken a closer look at all of the undercarriage when I bought the car. Anyway, I am still going to try to use this as a reason to push the scissor lift past most of the furniture my wife wants. After all, it's all about safety, isn't it?
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
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I think this is a drivetrain-related thing, although it's mostly about the speedo gauge itself. In Roadrally, you calibrate your odometer when you run the first leg, which is about 10 miles. The Rallymaster gives you the exact mileage and you calculate your "correction factor." But the testing I've done so far indicates that the odometer isn't as great as you might think... At 30 MPH, the odometer matches the distance you drive very well. At 60 MPH, it's only 90% on; it goes up by 0.9 miles for every 1 mile on the highway (assuming the mile-markers are correctly spaced.) It gets worse as you go faster. If you time yourself for the miles, you get 2 minutes to a mile @3…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hi all, My second project this weekend was that I FINALLY got around to scoping my ignition. My engine still has a slightly rough idle (although at times it will smooth out beautifully), the exhaust puffs randomly (random misfires), I sometimes get a light backfire, and my tach needle gets these spasms -- twitching to higher values. At idle, the twitches are about 100 RPM in magnitude (with no change in engine speed), and on acceleration, the needle sometimes bounces wildly over a 500 to 1000 RPM range. Interestingly, the needle doesn't necessarily bounce wildly at steadily higher engine speeds. It's mostly when engine speeds are rapidly changing. So here's a trace …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Recently I have installed a 5 speed into my 77 280z. At the time, I put in a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. The clutch and pressure plate were new in a plain brown sealed box but were at least 20 years old. (Came with the car with other "spare" parts.) Everything went well now for a couple of months. Recently it has become difficult to shift from neutral into gear and reverse seems to be the worst. The clucth isn't disengaging enough and the tranny wants to grind. Double clutching seems to help when rolling. So, I changed out the clutch master and the slave to be on the safe side. No change. There is about a full inch of movement on the clutch fo…
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
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I have a 240z and I recently put an l28 in and replaced the fuel injection for carbs. I have everything hooked up, and I got a new fuel filter and I got a new mechanical fuel pump, but when i start the car I am not able to start it. When I spray gas into the carbs and suck up some fuel through the fuel line I am able to start it for like 3 seconds but I am not seeing any gas come up through the fuel filter. What should I do at this point? Could there be a problem with something in the engine that is preventing the pump to work? does the l24 have something that an l28 doesn't have that allows it to use the mechanical pump instead of an electrical? Any help would be much ap…
Last reply by Tophu530,
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