Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 2.1k views
I don't see any other threads like this on here, so I hope this is not inappropriate. Honestly I don't care for the HybridZ website, so I don't feel inclined to post there much. This is my long term plan for the 280Z. A neighbor who is also an old car buff stopped by about a month ago, he told me his wife's uncle had an '06 350Z that wouldn't pass inspection in RI ( I had told him earlier that I was considering a drivetrain conversion at some point in the future). The car is mechanically sound, so having the entire vehicle for the cost of an used engine & CD009 trans of unknown pedigree made sense to me. My personal experience with buying JDM drivetrains has not …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
-
- 3 followers
- 121 replies
- 4.5k views
Z/ZX Gearing chart After driving my 280Z 500 miles this past weekend, I can honestly say I can't live with the 4 speed until the drivetrain conversion happens. Mine is in rough shape - 3rd gear whines like a tractor gear set, and in 4th, the shifter rattles & the whole thing sounds like it's gonna explode when I drive over 80 for any duration. There were a couple sprints on the way down & home where I got up over 90, and the car felt pretty good (I had previously felt the nose to be a little flighty at speed, however I think that is mostly the roadway I normally drive on - since I did not experience the same feel on the interstates going to Carlisle PA), but …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 377 views
Still sorting out my 280z after manual trans swap and r200 diff install. Transmission was rebuilt and diff was resealed after inspection (everything looked good). Upon first test drive when coming to a stop I can hear a rhythmic thunk/thump coming from the right rear of the car. The only thing that wasn’t touched in the swap was the donor half shafts so I rebuilt them with Japanese u-joints. Reinstalled them and still have the same thunk. The driveline is original but u joints seem fine (nice and tight). This *sounds* like a half shaft or driveline u joint problem but I can’t find any slop in any of them. Next step might be swapping the half shafts side to side …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 324 views
Hey guys, I've got some replacement parts for the transmission, like a new shift fork boot and throwout bearing (now installed on the sleeve). I wanted to get all new bolts to reattach the transmission to the engine so I ordered them from ZCar Depot. I just want to give these guys a big public shout out. I got this E-mail: I think it was really cool that they checked it with me. I don't mind of course. Not like the bolts will be visible once it's all back together anyhow, but I know it might be an issue for some folks so it made sense for them to contact me to check. I just wanted to give them some recognition. Never had a bad experience with t…
Last reply by ArcticFoxCJ, -
- 6 followers
- 64 replies
- 3.4k views
I'm getting back to installing an LSD in my R180 but I was concerned about the LSD heating up the differential during Auto-X. I drilled/tapped a hole in the fill plug for a temperature sensor but I also was looking into an alternate differential cover with extra volume and cooling fins. I located a family-run foundry operation that will do a one-off aluminum casting for $40 plus $3/pound so I designed one. Anyone want to comment on the design?
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 5 followers
- 26 replies
- 2.3k views
Does anyone who knows more than me (which would be most) see anything wrong with this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/240z-oil-cam-spray-bar/283790259940?hash=item421337b6e4:g:0ccAAOSwcABeA7Cz My original is a little bent as I have seen in older posts. I could fix it I guess but would go this route in a heartbeat.
Last reply by Clay C, -
Vapor Tank Question 1 2 3 4 9
by chaseincats- 5 followers
- 96 replies
- 4.1k views
Hi guys, I'm honestly not sure which sub forum this was supposed to go in but here we are. Periodically I smell gas fumes in the car. One of the main culprits was the old-style hose clamps weren't sealing the hoses to the vapor tank well enough. I changed them to modern belt-clamps which helped a lot but not fully. I've been testing the leak by blowing in the hardline that connects the carbon canister to the vapor tank and scampering back there to sniff around (which is how I originally found the clamps were a problem) but I'm still smelling some fumes while driving so it's not fully fixed. At this point I can't seem to pin down the smell point and even …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 3 followers
- 23 replies
- 685 views
78 280Z 2+2 I finally got around to doing some more work on the Z, and for every step I take its almost as if its two steps back. Two days ago I changed out the engine/ecu harness because mine had virtually every clip broken. After I connected everything back up I started the car to verify it was running okay. Engine seemed to idle fine, rev fine. I did rev it once and it died when the RPMs settled, but it started right back up and ran fine from what I could gather. I shut the car down. I have not touched it since. Two days have passed. I go out to road test the car, and it wont start at all, just cranks. I will occasionally hear it try to …
Last reply by NocturnalEmber, -
Hey all! I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel for my auto to 5 speed swap and just wanted some confirmation on driveshaft fit. After reading dozens of posts I assumed I'd need to either build or modify a driveshaft when going from 280z auto to zx 5 speed. I went to measure and test fit to see which of the 2 driveshafts (my original auto and the 5 speed zx 2+2 from the parts car) would be the best to modify and when I placed the auto driveline in it *appears* to fit! I took two pictures. In the first I have the driveshaft fitted. I marked the end of the slip joint collar on the tranny tail shaft and then removed the driveshaft in the second pic…
Last reply by sboy79, -
-
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 279 views
having a bit of an issue getting a knock sensor that will work with a 300zx turbo 1986 ecu and an L28et block. found a sensor from nissan but when I looked at the scope with it installed on the running engine I was getting all kinds of voltages that I would assume be problematic. My guess is the flat response vs resonate is the issue. Pretty sure the doughnut type I am using is a flat response type. the rc value was selected since the ecu seems to want a specific value to not set a code, there is a bias voltage that is dropped by this resistance. The r1 was selected as I assumed the lower value would pass more signal. The stock sensor in a L28et has…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 476 views
So short story is I’m replacing a slightly worn Schneider 300f cam with a Isky L490 so a fair jump down. My question is can I get close to calculating new lash pad size by the difference in base circle? 300f base circle is 27.9mm L490 base circle is 31mm cam base circle delta is 3.1mm so 1.55mm closer current lash pad size is 6mm is the following the correct calculation? 1.55x1.48 rocker ratio =2.294mm so new lash pad size of 3.7mm? is it a safe bet to go between 4.45mm to 3.7mm or do I need to go lower? Wipe pattern was even on the 300f cam I can purchase a few pad sizes just need to know the range I’m working in so if anyone more exper…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 494 views
We all know that the Z's engine is canted off vertical. However, I've been unable to find any diagrams or tech info that indicates, definitively, what the cant angle is. Does anyone know the engine's cant angle? An, if so, what's your source?
Last reply by siteunseen,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
