Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 0 replies
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Hey guys I was up in Phoenix this weekend at a swap meet. On the way there and back I noticed that my 5th gear is fairly loud. What I mean is there is a like a "roar" almost but only in 5th gear. If I down shift to 4th and hit the same speed it does not make same noise. It also has a very loud vibration in the stick that can be heard. Secondly on the way back while passing someone on the freeway I reached about 105MPH, when I released the throttle the car popped out of fifth. It went back in with no trouble but it freaked me out a bit. So I'm wondering has anyone ever had these issue or no anything about them. I'm going to check the fluid level tomorrow but I wouldn't se…
Last reply by Pomorza, -
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- 14 replies
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what do you guys think about this radiator?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALUMINUM-3-ROW-RADIATOR-70-71-72-73-DATSUN-NISSAN-240z_W0QQitemZ200424566675QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2eaa3c2f93 i just purchased the a/c system from courtesy nissan for my 73 240z with the 2.4 engine and need something to keep it all cool. has anyone used one like this?
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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I'm reassembling the exterior engine components on my 75 and trying to cosmetically restore everything thru painting, powdercoating, polishing, ceramic coating etc. I'm looking for opinions on cleaning up the throttle body and air flow meter considering the electricals and moving parts, not to mention the fairly complicated shapes. I'm not sure if they could be broken down enough to powdercoat or not. Any experiences/suggestions?
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
detonation?
by whamo- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
I have had an issue with my 240z for as long as I can remember. It sounds like it is experiencing detonation at part throttle under a load. The engine is stock with the exception of a 280zx EI distributor. The initial timing is set at 7 degrees at 750 rpm. The total mechanical advance is all in at 2700 rpm. The total timing (initial 7) plus (mechanical 18) totals 25 degrees. This seems pretty tame to me. A typical performance v8 usually produces best power at 30-35 degees of total timing. I'm not certain how much a datsun inline 6 needs. I have tried takeing the timing back and enriching the carbs but nothing seems to effect the sound/feel that I percieve as detonation. I…
Last reply by whamo, -
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I am swapping out my flat tops for a fresh set of round tops from ztheapy. Which PCV tube will I need? The 70 or 71-72 or something different? What's the difference?
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 6 replies
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I'm looking for ideas for building a regrind cam that will work with the stock Z valve train (springs, seals etc.) I know I'm going to make it a .460 lift, but looking for suggestions for duration. I know that Scheinider builds a cam with 270 intake and 280 exhaust and .460 lift......anyone had experience with that cam? I do want a regrind for longevity however. Also, does anyone have experience with Cam Techniques in Florida? They supposedly built the cams for Bob Sharpe. Any ideas on what I should use on this custom cam would be appreciated. It should be nice to pick up some pop without the hassel of springs and seals for a street driven car.
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
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On a 280Z, there is a bracket bolted to the oil pan in front of the starter to support the transmission oil lines to the radiator. Mine has some kind of bodged bracket made up of several pieces of metal bolted together and I don't think it is supposed to be that way. Is there a photo, or a drawing in the microfiche I can refer to, to make or get he correct bracket? thxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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i need to replace the u joints on my half axles and the axles won't come out. 1976 280z, R200, 5speed (swap from a 77z) I have new bearings and seals, and have parts for a drum >disc conversion as well as new shocks and bushings i want to install, but the u joints are priority as they have alot of play. the seal on teh driver side of the diff also needs replacing soon. the 8 bolts holding the half axle on the diff end and wheel end come off fine, but then the axle won't budge. nothing shoudl be holding it in now what options do i have, and how much does the level of difficulty go up for each? also do i want to save the drum parts intact (since i dont have to cut the…
Last reply by Babalouie, -
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just wondering if with my new 4 barrel swap i could keep the stock fuel pump, or if im going to need to go electric? any help would be appreciated, the motor is an L31 with a 390 holley and a cam.
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 11 replies
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Question here guys, im newish to the site but not new to cars... my question to you all is i can find much on my new addition, i was told its a 76 280z stock engine block and head combo. The head is stamped E30 and block is L20 113021.... the trans is 7915213... now im just trying to figure out what year it really is and if it is really the stocker that came with the car. ... the car has a GS31010985 vin number and again i cant find anything on that as well... im tryin to do alot of configuring but ive ran out of places to go....:stupid: ive heard that this head is a one of a kind type thing and same with the block.... Is it really? HELP ME OUT GUYS!!!
Last reply by bigjohnsonzc, -
- 25 replies
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I was driving home yesterday and noticed very slightly that the gear switching was a little rougher than normal. Today I brought my car back to work because the mechanic down the street was going to re-check the alignment he had done for me a few weeks back. Anyways, when I was backing out of my house the reverse shift grinded...usually i can get passed that grinding sound by going to 3rd or 4th and then reverse. In this case it didnt work. The drive to work was rougher than usual, shifting to 1st or reverse (when needed) ... I am now at work with the car, and 1st gear is very STIFF to shift to; reverse will not go without the grinding noise. I am limiting the shifting, i…
Last reply by killerpoon, -
- 14 replies
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I had a loose stub axle so I took both sides out. Found two different axles in the car! The one on the left is stamped "J15" and has the backing plate for the lugs while the one on the right is stamped "F15" and has no backing plate. The one on the left had an unpeened nut at about 40 ft lbs of torque. The one on the right was the normal bear to loosen up after dremel-ing out the peened portion of the nut. The one on the right almost has too little rust... It gets worse, the one on the left had the threads shaved! There was no apparent use of lock-tight on the retaining nut. The spline count is the same on both axles as the flange which hooks to the half shaft a…
Last reply by GreenZZZ,
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