Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
In the never ending restoration of 9070 I am looking for the soft lines that run from front of the hard lines from the AUTO trans to the radiator. My car had them but somewhere along the line someone cut them and just put a hose clamp on. I know it would work but would like to get the original lines but have not been able to find them. There are pix in the introduction section. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer. Richard.
Last reply by Richard Oben, -
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MSD 6A ignition 1 2 3
by FastWoman- 28 replies
- 10.6k views
Hi all, So I bit the bullet and bought an MSD 6A ignition module to iron out the last of my weak ignition problems. I did a really nice installation, both electrically, and structurally. I tested it. It sparked when I jumped across the magnetic pickup leads -- a HARD spark that went ZZZIT. All good. Then I tried starting the engine. I got an initial fire, as I often do, and then nothing -- crank, crank, crank. Anyway, I'll be brief, 'cuz I know y'all must hate my long posts: MSD tech support was unable to tell me what polarity to hook up the magnetic pickup, other than to say to try both ways, and go with the one that gives the more retarded timing. I initia…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 2 replies
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I removed my head for reconditioning and I am in the process of replacing all exterior gaskets and putting everything back together. I need to re-install the head and I have a couple of questions about the crank position and cam position. My guide says that I must set the #1 cylinder to TDC. Can I set it without a dial indicator? When I got my head back it was re-assembled with the crank dowel in the 12 o'clock postion (more or less, see photo). In this position, the #2 exhaust valve is open and the #3 intake valve is open. My guide says that if the cam dowel is in the 12 o'clock postion then the #1 intake/exhaust valves should be closed, but it does not say which…
Last reply by motorman7, -
- 4 replies
- 1.3k views
I have done a fair amount of searching on here and Hybridz and still don't have a answer as to how well this set up works. Any feedback would be great. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...1%7C240%3A1318 It is going on a 280 2+2 3.1L with tripple webers. I would like any other input on any other ideas or opinions. I am not drag racing this thing but want to take it to a track day every once in a while.
Last reply by moritz55, -
- 10 replies
- 3.8k views
I'm trying to make arrangements to pick up a complete Turbo engine from an '83 ZX. My intention, once I get this new 'toy' home, is to put it up on an engine stand, however I can't seem to find any truly definitive threads (forgive the pun) about what the correct diameter and thread type ought to be. I've seen it suggested that one should use headbolts, but I don't exactly have that option ATM -- nor do I even know, again, what the diameter and pitch of those bolts are. I've gone to the hardware store and pre-emptively purchased some 10mm 1.25 (fine thread?) long flange bolts, grade 8.8 ... Is this what I need? I recall finding a thread where a gentleman had also purc…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 4 replies
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Hi, I have searched and been unable to find a definitive answer to an issue I am having with my fuel tank. The gas tank fill port does not seem to go all the way into the rubber filler tube. It looks like it can go another 1/2 inch before it reaches the base of the port. I am fairly certain that it should go on further, but I wanted to see if anyone knew exactly how this is supposed to go on. Others have left it with a 1/2 inch gap and reported no problems, but it seems to me that the top of the gas tank will fit better against the underside of the body (specifically the curved bracket that is covered in rubber and welded to the underside of the body with the intent …
Last reply by zKars, -
- 12 replies
- 2.1k views
After removing the radiator hoses, I found pits on the aluminum inlet & outlet ports. Is there anything better than JB Weld to fill the pits? Anything that can be polished maybe? thxZ
Last reply by g9m3c, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
I have a 76 280z with a strange problem. All stock. It's a 4 speed manual but I can start the car just by turning the ignition. I don't even have to press the clutch. I recently had the master, slave clutch cylinder and the alternator replaced. I noticed the problem after installing the new alternator. Anyone know what the problem is?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
I'm looking to purchase a 5 speed for my 72 Z. What would be a fair price to pay for a rebuilt 5 speed. What should I look out for?
Last reply by bigoak, -
- 4 replies
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Found these listed on the club CD and was wondering if they are necessary. When I took it apart these were missing but didn't seem to be leaking. Also how the heck do they work if they are installed as per the fiche? Looks like they would contribute to leakage because there seems to be no gasket between them and the block. Just wondering because my engine is in the final reassembly phase. Thanks, H Houghton
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
- 17 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi all, I'm going to be replacing my 78's injectors and connectors before too long. I have all the parts in. As I contemplate this job, I see how I can clean up almost all of the exposed wiring ontop of the engine by creating a wiring conduit for the injectors and some of the sensor wires. I envision fabricating it out of soldered copper piping (painted), with T-joints where each injector wire comes off. I can heat shrink between a nipple on each T and the barb on the corresponding connector. The conduit would be bracketed just beneath and to the right of the fuel rail (between the rail and the valve cover) and would be integral with the fuel rail system. A harness…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 10 replies
- 26.5k views
I did a search and read about 30 different transmission posts and have a question. It sounds like to 280Z (thru 78) is almost plug-n-play into my late 72 240Z, (just switch-out the speedo gear). The 80-83 280ZX 5 speed requires more modification. Is the ZX tranny better? I like the idea of a simpler conversion, but is the 280Z tranny have any issues? Thanks!
Last reply by Oiluj,
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