Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I did a search and read about 30 different transmission posts and have a question. It sounds like to 280Z (thru 78) is almost plug-n-play into my late 72 240Z, (just switch-out the speedo gear). The 80-83 280ZX 5 speed requires more modification. Is the ZX tranny better? I like the idea of a simpler conversion, but is the 280Z tranny have any issues? Thanks!
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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Has anyone installed 46mm intake valves into an N42 or N47 head? If so, I would very much appreciate any feedback on the issue whether positive or negative.
Last reply by ozconnection, -
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I just purchased a 240Z and it has both a Pertronix Ignitor and a MSD 6AL. I've owned other 240Zs and used the Pertronix system with just a regular coil. What's the advantage (if any) of the MSD 6AL and the Pertronix? To be honest ... I'm not even sure the MSD 6AL is even hooked up.
Last reply by gnosez, -
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My transmission on my 77 280z is making a grinding noise. An initial diagnosis and estimate says that the bearing are falling apart and to rebuild it would cost me about $950 total in labor and parts. There's a list on ebay for a clean rebuilt 5 speed for $599 and they are close enough for me to pick it up (no shipping cost). I am fairly good with tools and have done project on my own. As long as its just nuts and bolts, i can handle it. I just dont have a press or any specialty tools. My question is: Should i fork up the $950 and have a pro do it? or an i save some money and try it on my own? Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
Last reply by studioti, -
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I got the starter off the 280Z, and I would like to paint both the starter motor and the solenoid. I think I will just clean the paint off the aluminum nose/front cover, then use the electric wire brush to clean off the solenoid, paint that, then just a little steel wool & paint on the starter motor. The Haynes book says you just remove the two screws holding the solenoid to the aluminum front cover, and it comes off. Is there any trick to it? Anything else I'd need to know before I start? thxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Anyone know offhand what ratio was in the R200 diff in the 83 280ZX non turbo?
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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I am removing my long block for replacement with a rebuilt long block. I have reveiwed the 4 manuals that I own and none clearly identify and locate the lift points for teh block. Can anyone show me what block/ head bolt holes to use to fasten to the lifting tackle on engie hoist? Thanks
Last reply by Mike B, -
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Hello all, I had to replace the thermostat housing on my 76' 280. While doing so I realized that the connection on the ground wire on this fitting was weak so i soldered it to add some strength. However, now the other wire (seems to be a plug) is loose....as well as the one I had previously soldered. Does anybody know what this piece is called, or where I could find a replacement? It is the fitting on the thermostat housing next to the water temperature sensor. Thanks once again, John
Last reply by JohnnyP, -
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I searched and read that to prevent reverse shift grinding is to shift into a gear, then into reverse. This worked for me to help prevent the reverse grinding, but is this normal? Does a brand new 280z do this also? Just detail my symptoms: 1. Clutch pedal all the way down 2. Car is at complete stop with foot on the brake (Car never moved, I just started it up in drive way) 3. Shift into Reverse and it grinds Why? If I shift it fast and with force, it'll go into gear with couple of teeth grinding with a slight clunk (probably because something is rotating and stopped all of a sudden). So what I did was slowly push the gear very gently until it starts barely grinding just…
Last reply by RT Hunter, -
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I am ready to lift my long block out of the car so that I can clean the engine compartment and put a new long block in. Just 2 bolts left to take off. How do I remove the oil dip stick tube and the metal oil breather tube that leads to the hose that connects to the PVC valve? My new long block does not come with these 2 items. Thanks
Last reply by lmcguffin, -
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i just got through a complete rebuild. i tried the first startup, and at first, it seemed like the car wasn't reacting to the key turning, other than the lights coming on. then i could hear a small clunking noise every time i turned the key, coming from under the dash near the fuse box. we ran a wire directly from the battery to the starter, and it turns over like mad, but won't start up. any ideas? update: there is definitely fuel coming up at least as high as the fuel lines over the manifolds.
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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Hi all, I have just installed my overhauled engine in my 200Z( same as 280Z ). Initially the engine started and I got it to run to an exceptable level, idling smoothly. It does have a hesitation though when it is warm only when you press the accelerator. After a couple of times running I turned it off and it refuses to crank over with the ignition key turned to start. The problem I have is that the Exhaust temperature light has come on and my repair manual tells me that if this happens the catalytic converter hold relay would need to be reset before the starter would get power to turn the engine again. The manual show me where it (the hold relay) is, but it does not say …
Last reply by Z Babe,
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Wilbur
