Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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Hi all. I replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and now have grinding in all gears, including reverse. It's a '76 280 with a new 5-speed installed (original was 4-speed). I searched and found several posts about this problem but think it's not an adjustment thing. The factory manual says the stroke on the slave should be 1 3/4 inch but I'm only getting around 1 inch. Checked pedal travel and freeplay and they're all good. Also added a short spacer between the slave rod and the clutch lever but it didn't help much and I'm concerned that it might cause the bearing to be constantly engaged. Bled it many times, of course. Seems that the stroke is just too shor…
Last reply by geokr, -
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Ok short on time so trying to pack 2 turds in a half turd bag! :laugh: So what U joints Would you choose over other for axles and drive shaft my dad back in the mid 70's was always blowing out his axles u joints! 2nd I fixed a ton of leak in the lines for the vapor tank in the 1/4 panel ! I am still get the smell inside! Can I remove the tank with out having any problems and just cap ever thing off ?
Last reply by aceofspades, -
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What could i do to refurbish this exhaust manifold, is it even worth refurbishing, i would imagine finding a new one of these would be extremely hard. Any thoughts? I know i could buy a motorsport header, but i like the way this car sounded when i acquired it.
Last reply by J Shara, -
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Does anyone have any tips on how to effectivley get all, or most of the road grime, grease and dirt from out between all the nooks and crannies in the fan clutch, i tried scraping, and a nylon bristle brush, and wd- 40, i just cant seem to get it out and make it clean. This was it before i even started cleaning it
Last reply by 260zCaliCar, -
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a friend of mine was showing me some pictures of what he was doing 25 odd years ago and i thought id show them around :> it was a L24 with a diesel supercharger and two 1 3/4" SU's he said it was planed for a 240z. i hope you enjoy :>
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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but now that i've got my engine assembled, head bolted on etc., where do i attach the chains to hoist it? i'm not seeing anything obvious on the block, like "slingers." the fsm doesn't offer much insight...
Last reply by motorman7, -
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My '77 coupe has been having some seroius overheating issues lately. I'm afraid it may be the head, but I'm hoping is something simpler and less expensive than that. I bypassed the heater core since I don't have the money for it at the moment, and it ran well for a while with water in the system. Then I put coolant in the system(pre-mixed). I did make the idiot mistake of not watching the temp gauge due to the new coolant, and the lower hose blew. The needle was past 250. I pulled over immidiately to let it cool down, and got a ride to a near by Autozone to get new coolant and a new lower radiator hose. I also got a new radiator cap and thermostat. Once everything was pa…
Last reply by Orangys280Z, -
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i have a noise in rear that sounds like sway bar bushings.. thisonly happen when clutch is engaged slowly rolling through parking lot.. press in clutch and noise goes away. just sounds like rubber against metal squeak.. i looked under the car today and noticed the diff raised slightly off the curved part of the diff mount.. here is a pic of how much daylight i can see through.. mount seems to be tight as per placing jack under.. please help !!! 78 280z
Last reply by scotts pearl, -
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It appears that a lot of 240z are now running an 81-83zx transmission with 3.9 or 4.11 gearing. I was looking at doing this as well--until I came across the May 2008 Classic Motorsports article on their 240z drivetrain swap. They used a 81-83zx 5speed transmission with 3.54 gearing. There appears to be some advantages to this appoach: 1. It looks like a straight swap--it's an R180 (instead of R200), so you wouldn't need the Zx mustache bar, etc 2. Lighter weight differential I realize that the R200 is a stonger differential--I will be running a rebuilt/ lightly modified L24 motor. Is anybody on the Z boards running a 3.54 diff? Thanks..
Last reply by Rich1, -
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Good day everyone. Well, I seem to have blown the engine in my 240z roadcourse car. It was time for a rebuild anyway. What I am looking for is advise on pistons for the L24. I have a well ported Early E88 head and triple weber 45's. I want to keep the L24 so I stay in GT3. I just don't have cash to keep up with the GT2 guys I am wondering what is out there for high compression pistons. I don't want to break the bank, but I am willing to spend some money if it is worth it. I would like to keep the total cost of my rebuild under $3k. A second question that I have is... How strong is the L24 crank. With the stroke being so short, can the redline be safely increas…
Last reply by wondersparrow, -
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There's a guy locally selling a ported & polished N42 head with these cam specs: 495 lift with 290 duration I think it was 107 lobe seperation. Only pulled about 9 or 10 inches of vac. at 1000 rpm. Pulled like a bitch in heat after 3000 or so rpm. That head made 191HP to the wheels on a stock bore flat top bottom end with a header and standalone efi. What does this mean in laymans terms?
Last reply by texasz, -
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I just bought a 280z engine for my 240z. It's got fuel injection so i'm removing it for carbs. I know what I need to do to take it off, but i don't own an air compressor or tools for them. Is it needed? or am i able to get by with had tools. I've also taken off the clutch and flywheel to mount it onto the engine stand. I assume to get the clutch back on it might take a little extra torque. Any help would be great. Thanks.
Last reply by Tophu530,
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