Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,568 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
- 11 replies
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I removed the oil pan to have a look at the big end bearing on cylinder 3 and check the end float (I was worried about piston slap.) No metal shavings or anything shiny looking. I wiggled all of the other big ends while I was at it, and number 4 also moved a bit more than the others, although checking with a feeler still under .3mm. It's an L28 block. So I removed number 4 and noticed that the bearing had a groove down the middle unlike number 3. From pictures in the manual, I know that main bearings have that groove and big end bearings are smooth. Would this cause an issue? Side note: It was a blown exhaust manifold gasket causing the noise on cylinder 3…
Last reply by ETI4K, -
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Lash Pad 240z 1 2
by Wally- 4 followers
- 14 replies
- 2.6k views
My engine rebuild is killing me....UGG So my machinist just told me the OEM lash pads i ordered were too thick...they are .120" He said he needs about .080" Can anyone help here? Not sure if these are even available. Only thing i saw was https://zcardepot.com/products/isky-valve-cap-lash-pad-custom-racing-cam-l24-l28?_pos=2&_sid=d43713ea7&_ss=r They say .080" for something but i am not sure if they will work with everything else being OEM (not a performance cam) and such thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 2k views
My 260z distributor is acting up. I purchased a rebuilt unit but it has a 3 prong plug and the original distributor had a 2 prong. Does anyone know how to wire in the new plug? I need to alter the stock plug on the car to a 3 prong but need to know where they go.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 4 followers
- 19 replies
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Im rebuilding a 5 speed from a 77 280Z and want to include the seal and o-ring on the striking rod assembly in the tail of the trans. It was clearly a leak. There is no access hole in the side of the case as shown in the service manual. How do I remove this retaining pin on the striking rod? I tried to fabricate a tool out of a small c-clamp but cannot get in there...no room. Has anyone overcome this? I hate to do this complete overhaul without this seal.
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 1 follower
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Hi, I want to confirm the connections to the air regulator etc. The intake side of the regulator has a T. One side obviously goes to the air regulator. On my car one side of the T is blocked with a HOSE/Clamp. My question is, the 3rd side of the T connects to the opening on the rubber elbow between AFM and throttle chamber? Also, where does the connector on the rocker/valve cover connects into? does that go on to the throttle chamber port?
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 961 views
Friends, I need some insight what to look for here. Engine oil in the car is Valvoline 20w-50. The oil pressure when the car starts is decent but then as the car warms up the oil pressure goes down. I know it is a bit open question but what should i look for? is there a good starting point? is there a way to test the oil pump? or oil pressure at a specific spot etc.? Appreciate some help ...
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 1 follower
- 19 replies
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To make a long story short, The car runs like crap when the timing is set where it needs to be yet when advanced into the 20's it runs 10 times better, I checked the cam timing and it seems to be on the money. the cam is not factory but somewhere around a 262 grind from the 80's. for reference, the block is a 77 l28 with a e31 is a streched chain a suspect here?
Last reply by tzagi1, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
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The first paragraph will be a little bit of back story. I rebuilt my 260z mechanically this past 2-3 years, paycheck to paycheck, learning from my first project car. I have tried to do a sensible OEM+ type modifications. Last year I drove it 100 miles burned 2.5 qts of oil and decided to rebuild the engine. Fast forward i have redone the engine bay wiring harness while the engine was out. RELOCATED the ignition coil to the other side of the engine bay. i drove the car 50 miles after the rebuild then lifted it back on jack stands to do the suspension bushings and shocks. I also did a bit of wiring upgrades and buttoning up parts in various places. I have a no spa…
Last reply by Trnelson, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 659 views
I'm still putting the non running 78 280Z back together that I bought a few months ago. Many parts were missing under the hood including the distributor and coil. I located a new (re-man) distributor and still need to get a coil. I have seen a number of discussions about the better coils to use. My engine is bone stock. What coil should I use?
Last reply by mayolives, -
- 7 followers
- 49 replies
- 5k views
decided to just rebuild my engine. have a machine shop guy i know who is helping me out for decent price. I took engine and tranny apart. I am wondering if i should buy a clutch kit. Nothing looks bad to me but i dont really know what to look for either.. any thoughts. is it worth 200bucks to do?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 5 followers
- 18 replies
- 2.6k views
Working on engine while car at paint. It seemed to operate fine but any suggestions on anything i should since its all out? replace anything just in case (everything is original so like 50 yrs old) thanks
Last reply by Wally, -
- 3 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
Deja vu all over again. Working on a buddies L26 engine, doing a Weber carb jet and tune, and decide to check valve lash and replace the valve cover gasket. Take off the cover, and starting doing a SOP check up on things and what should I see? Well first, what do I NOT see? The back end of the spray bar is what! Ok, where’s Waldo? Oh thank god, there it is, laying there happy as a clam. Cam lobes don’t look too bad, hopefully this happened not too long ago. Go to the stash for the later version that has better welds. Down to one more of those. Going to have get the TIG welder out and weld that back tube into place on the dozen or so spar…
Last reply by zKars,
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