Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 12 replies
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Here is the story. In my quest for power on my 73 i am always fiddling. Always get more power when i fiddle I have a zx motor and dizzy 3 screw su's flamethrower coil. timing set to 14btdc. Here is the question. My plugs where set at .38 or so car was pulling hard. Running a little richer plugs dark dark chocolate. So me being me and cant leave enough alone i opened the plugs up more to .44 or so Power increased exhaust stench did too . Blows mild black when i crack here open at 7 grand. Power is better alot better. But now my plugs are sooty again. Is this a bad thing or did i now effectively make the plug colder buy opening the gap? Should i lean her out a little n…
Last reply by yetterben, -
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Anybody know where i can get cam shims for a 240z, MSA is outta stock right now? Tried Nissan, Black Dragon, no luck. Thanks Frankie
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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Do we have pictures or drawings of the different emmissions labels, for informational purposes? Mine is supposed to be "federal" emmissions, and since there is no label on the hood (or it was covered with undercoating) the exhaust guys are a little uncomfortable working on the exhaust. thxZ
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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on most forums there are sticky's at the top on common write up for motor info Did I miss that section some where Just looking to learn about what block and head combo's work best
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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I got my 71 240Z started for the first time today. It idled around 1000 rpm (very rough) and the engine was shaking kind of bad, and a loud ticking noise coming from under the valve cover. I took it off to investigate, and this is what I found. The lash pad was sitting on the floor of the head and looks to be fully intact. The valve spring retainer on the other hand was mashed up a bit and is a little tight for the rocker guide to fit into. If I want to get the spring retainer off, I'll have to take off the camshaft and rockers, because I only have one of those universal valve spring compressors that gets blocked by the camshaft. My question is, are there any ways aro…
Last reply by richn100, -
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I have a 300ZX and the stock clutch slave cylinder has a rubber hose running from the metal pipe to the slave cylinder (about 12 inches) Way too much flex in the hose and looking to replace with a braided one. It does not have a screw on both ends like my 240z, but screw on one end and the round piece on the other end with a bolt through it (forgot what it is called) See link: http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd149/tvtanner/brakehose.jpg Any ideas where they stock these, or someone can make a custom one. Thanks
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
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Well then! hello all! First of front Diff mount! solid or rubber ! What Do I gain to lose by swapping in a solid? more vibs and drive train noise? Which rubber or solid is best to buy and where? 2nd! Carbs! I got some dirty old weber DGV's rebuild them and learn them or buy some nice SU's? what the best cheap carb set up out there! Also ditching the air pump is it just as easy as talking the pump out and block off the lines? 3rd Tune up parts! I have a 260Z L26 Weeee! with a Mallory Dizzy and coil! what kinda plugs (NGK# ???) cap/ rotor and wires should I run ? Also Plan To install some new ground that run right back to the battery! any tips and help …
Last reply by aceofspades, -
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So, as most of you know, I am converting my L26 to Ztherapy round tops. I am bypassing the coolant passages through the intake manifolds and carbs, and have a question about that. I have taken off the coolant pipes/thermostat assembly on the back of the engine, and will run a single heater hose from the outlet assembly for the lower radiator hose straight to the heater core. Now, my question is about the intake side of the engine. There was a hose outlet assembly that screwed into the thermostat housing that had 3 hoses on it. All 3 of these hoses went to either the intake, balance pipe, or carbs. So my question is can I simply plug that outlet? If not, do I need to T a h…
Last reply by g9m3c, -
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O.K., I ran my own comression test on my 1977 280Z L28 with a N42 Block and N47 head with clogged #6 FI Port. Engine was at operating temperature and my compression came up as this. Is this good or bad? Clyinder/ PSI 1- 150psi 2- 150 3- 150 4- 189 5- 152 6- 150 With teaspoon of oil. Clyinder/ PSI 1- 190psi 2- 180 3- 180 4- 170 5- 180 6- 180 ~Z~
Last reply by WingZr0, -
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So, as I'm about to install my Ztherapy carbs on my 260Z in place of the original crap-tops, I find myself in a predicament. I expect a pretty noticeable performance and driveability increase. As you all know, the satisfaction of new modifications wears off after a short time which leaves you wanting more. Now, I fully intend on swapping an 8 of some kind in this car eventually, but I'd like to kick up the 6 in the meantime. I'd venture to guess that the next step would be a header and new exhaust. That's a fairly inexpensive project that kind of needs to be done anyway, considering my piping is fairly rusty. No leaks yet, though. Now, with this project, I want to repla…
Last reply by g9m3c, -
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Getting my car dialed in to perfection. All my plugs are tanish except no 6 it looks new. It is firing verified spark. I dont get why it would look new. Compression is fine. 4, 5 tanish 6 white electorde looks new with a slight discoloration. When i pulled the old plug out it was dark. Sooty. 4 5 where as well. I am wondering if i need to just up the mixture a tad. Does #6 run lean normally?
Last reply by WarrenZ, -
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Hi all, I could use a bit more advice, regarding the 160K mi original engine in the '78 I recently bought: I flushed my engine today (Gunk) and changed the oil. Then I opened up the valve cover to adjust the valve lash. I was rather surprised at what I found. Although the moving parts were more or less clean, the valve cover and top of the cylinder head looked like the inside of my smoker after a 16 hr round of smoking. There was a varnishy/gummy crust that averaged maybe 1mm thick, with much thicker build-ups in some areas. The Gunk took down some of it from the valve cover walls in sheets, in line with oil spray from the valve train. I scrubbed the remainder of it…
Last reply by Diseazd,
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