Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,569 topics in this forum
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- 23 replies
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Some of you may remember me, but I haven't posted here in quite a while. I bought a nice 260Z last November and have been working on it on and off since. It sat in my backyard perfectly still for almost 3 months, and I couldn't stand it. So.......I'm trying to fix the issues that kept it off of the road for that period of time. I ordered a set of Ztherapy round tops about a week and a half ago, and they will hopefully be here a little later in the week. In preperation for them, I am cleaning and detailing under the hood and will hopefully have it ready for them to simply bolt up once they get here. I am also working on building my own air cleaners for them because I did…
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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- 6 replies
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Hi all, I'm still working out the bugs in my "new" '78 as free time arises. Er... Maybe I'm working out all sorts of vermin, as I just replaced the air filter, in whose housing I found the remains of a family of mice, but that's another story. The engine runs very well, overall, but I'm still not quite there. I have new vacuum lines throughout. Timing is correct. Engine vacuum is very steady, but a couple/few PSI low. Then again, it also has 160K miles on it. I've been running B12 in the fuel to clean the injectors. My remaining problems are: 1. After I've left the car sitting for 2 or more days and then have started it, it hesitates on start-up, often with a v…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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i've miced my cylinders, and the bore on the whole block ranges from 3.3855" to 3.3895", with seemingly no pattern as to which diameter is where. i've never done this before, so please forgive me for asking: is this enough to determine whether i can use standard pistons or not? i'm going to scan the full list of readings and post it soon if more info is necessary. i've been finding some conflicting info about the L28 standard bore. my fsm says that standard is up to 86.050mm, but a piston source i'm looking to buy from says that their standard bore piston is 86.1mm in diameter. lastly, does anyone have any horror stories about black dragon pistons or ITM pistons, or shoul…
Last reply by Phred, -
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Hi, Gee, it's been a while since I've actually had to time an engine -- long enough for me to forget a thing or two. I just replaced my distributor, and therefore I need to do this. Here's what I did: Warmed up engine. Set idle to 800 RPM. Connected timing light. Set to 10 deg BTDC. Readjusted idle. Rechecked timing. Tightened set screw at base of distributor. Finished. As I was doing this, I noticed that there was quite an RPM drop between, say, 20 and 10 deg BTDC. The engine seemed to run smoothly, but that seemed quite an excessive drop -- perhaps a few hundred RPM. Moreover, my engine vacuum is a few pounds below where it should probably be. Stupid question…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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My 6/70 Z has a dented gas tank and I'm thinking of pulling it off and replacing it with a tank from a 8/72 parts care I have. I'm wondering if there are any differences between these two gas tanks. I've searched the forums and seen several posts regarding swapping a 280Z tank into a 240Z, but I was not able to find any significant information regarding the differences between 70, 71, 72 or 73 model years. My goal is to keep the 70 as close to stock as I can, but before I make the swap, so I'm hoping there aren't significant differences between the tanks. Does anyone have any information? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by DMC-Z, -
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Hi all I recently won a series of R200 parts from Blake on eBay including mustache bar, the L-shaped rear sway bar mounts, a new diff strap + bolts. However I am missing the lower bracket to swap my R200 into my 73 240Z. Does any one have one for sale? I am referring to the lower curved one that goes around the rear bottom of the diff cover. I think I have everything else I need for the swap... Anyone? Thanks in advance, -e
Last reply by EricB, -
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- 940 views
ever since i bought my car i have had the same problem where if i tried going up too steep a hill or go too fast (anything above 60) the engine would start to cut out like it wasn't getting enough gas. i put a "new" set of carbs on it and checked out the filters and all seemed to be ok but the problem never stayed away long. Finally my father clamped off the return line to the front filter and for some reason it seems to be working. is there something that could be missing from the system because i know the car had been messed with by its previous owner and we could be missing something obvious.
Last reply by samzhot240, -
- 2 replies
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Hey everyone, have a little problem here. I seem to be getting extremely weak spark on cylinders 4 and 5. Every other cylinder seems to be great. The plugs are absolutely soaked with gas on those 2 cylinders. I put my inductive light on the wires and checked to see if i would get any readings close the the dist. cap and i did. but as i follow the wire down it gets weak and randomly fires. I replaced plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor. Coil is also fairly new. I had a spare set of plug wires and tried messing with them, but no luck. any tips or ideas would be great. thanks.
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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I have a 73 240z with original motor and 4-speed transmission. I replaced the clutch with a kit from the LPS. When I took the transmission out of the car I did not replace the throw out bearing (yes, a bad decision). When I put it back together I had a bad noise/vibration happen every time I pushed in the clutch pedal. So I logged into the forums and after a comprehensive search, concluded that it’s the throw out bearing. I take the transmission out and replace it with the one in the kit. My problem is that is still making the noise. I decided to leave it in and it really only makes the noise when it’s cold. Could the clutch/pressure plate be made for a different si…
Last reply by 73_240z, -
- 16 replies
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I bought a 280z a few weeks ago and it started up and ran fine. There was water visible in the radiator when I got it home, and the oil was clear. Now after replacing the water with antifreeze and water, I have found I have a blown head gasket as shown from no liquid in the radiator and a milky oil color. Now my car won't start. I can't figure out why it won't start aside from the leaky head gasket. I'm going to try and seal it with some gunk you put in the radiator that will hopefully seal the leak from the inside. Any ideas?
Last reply by kensval, -
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what am i doing wrong here? the tranny is supported, i've got the hoist on the block (head and manifolds are already removed), and they come apart about half an inch, but then the flywheel tries to come out too. i can see the crankshaft there in the gap. do i have to put it in neutral? everything is definitely unbolted. we have tried pulling the block forward, aggressively, but it won't move past about 3/4"
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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- 1.3k views
Hey guys, I recently bought some resurfaced rockers to replace my old ones as i am putting in a different cam, still stock however my old one had a worn lobe so i figured new cam i better get some refreshed rockers. My question is about the new rockers, they look a little different and I am concerned about the rocker arm geometry being different. The person I bought them from on ebay stated they were out of a 240z. I have attached some pictures. Can you tell me what you think? Thanks Frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2,
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